Restoration- Gottlieb SYS1 Cleopatra Restore (cpu alk dmg)

List of things left to work on:

1. Fuse the -12v line DONE
2. Clean wax playfieldDONE
3. Install rubber set
4. Install new bulbs
5. Install new shooter springs
6. Inspect/clean drop target assembly
7. Play a game
8. Strip wax touchup playfieldDONE
9. Decide what to do about the insert (fisheyes)
10. Address the back glass flaking issues


This is a touchup, not a full restore on the playfield. I want a pinball to play, not a mint piece of art that I do not want anyone to play ;)

This is a playfield recap.

As I found it:

20170401_200509.md.jpg


Glass Removed:

20170401_200858.md.jpg



Seal bare wood areas, and white back areas to be touched up.

20170525_103833.md.jpg


Finished, letting it dry before I wax. Plastics and hardware will be replaced/cleaned after I get my package hopefully tomarrow or sat.

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There is a troublesome area on the lower right.... But the clear has tiny cracks and the dark lines are deep. I would have to strip the clear to paint to get them out, and I am not sure that would do justice to preserving the machine... I feel it takes the history away from it.
 
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if you were to strip the clear coat you will have to replace it - titles like this usually aren't worth the investment, i don't worry about the lines and crack in these old playfields - just clean it (not with a magic eraser) apply 3 or so coats of mothers carnuba wax, polish & play

lot of good work you did repairing it
 
Thanks kenny, this is my first pin, but I love a good challenge. With the lack of repoduction parts for this era of pins, I am limited to how far I can take it. I could strip the clear and spray, I have a setup to do it... I just know I will spend as much as this machine is worth to do so.

That said. I picked up a can of carnuba wax, (non cleaner) and will be putting on hopefully a couple of coats tonight to have it ready for the rubbers and shooter (springs) replacements tomarrow. Ill hit the plastics and give the glass a good clean with invisible glass.

New set of bulbs where needed, and then on to the back glass touchup and chrome polish....

I should have about a solid 30ish hrs in the pin by the time i'm done. Which puts me about what I would think a pin like this would go $6-800.

Im looking at a bally pin next with mpu dmg.. Which I hope to get at about $1-125.

Thanks to everyone for checking out the thread. I hope it helps someone down the line.

Oh and thanks to ken for the info on the missing post, the info was 100% correct as always. Thanks buddy
 
I have not yet, the chimes sound strong, im sure it will need it.

I need info on servicing the drop targets as they are weak to reset with the playfield flat. But act fine with the playfield angles back on the head...

I need to retest the coil and driver associated.


I am not sure I want to do pinball resource. No credit cards...

That is a lot of hastle




Side note. I read there is a way to adjust the reset bar... Perhaps this and a cleaning is my issue.


Edit - rubber set, 44 and 47 bulbs, shooter springs, and a bottle of nov1 came in today. So I know what im doing.

Ill have to see if I can adjust/figure that drop target out first.
 
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One of the problems with weak drop target reset is a dirty/greasy coil plunger and coil sleeve.

Remove the 4 screws and flat washers the hold the reset coil bracket to the drop target unit. Slide the whole coil bracket away from the drop target unit. Now you have access to clean the entire coil plunger. It's probably gummy so use lighter fluid on a cotton swab or rag to clean the crud off the plunger. Now grab a bottle of BRASSO and polish that plunger up shiny bright.

You can either replace the drop target reset coil's sleeve or simply swab the inside of the sleeve out with lighter fluid on a cotton swab. After drying a few minutes, you can reassemble the coil bracket to the drop target unit. It should move a lot smoother.

Note: for those who have a recently purchased Ni-Wumpf System 1 driver board, they just discovered a problem with having received a defective batch of driver transistors which cause a weak drop target reset pulse. It's on their website about the problem.
 
I will have to reseat the inserts eventually, damned wax got in the crevices.

I put on three coats... And it really does play fast...

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Noone said your fist time... It can take a couple hrs to figure out the rubber kit... And polish plastics...

I replaced the under playfield fuse, 2 amp slow blow, the bottom board 5 amp solenoid fuse... It is intermittent on the 5 bank target reset... They have a lot of grime on rhem. And without the diode it ohmed at 4.6ohm. I need to see what that coil is supposed to be.



Damned near complete.

Recap


From this

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To this

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Quick thank you again to ken on that detailed drip target pro tip on cleaning. I had been looking for a few days and have not come across that method. But I will be taking that route sunday night.
 
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List of things left to work on:

1. Fuse the -12v line DONE
2. Clean wax playfield DONE
3. Install rubber set DONE
4. Install new bulbs DONE
5. Install new shooter springs DONE
6. Inspect/clean drop target assembly DONE
7. Play a game DONE
8. Strip wax touchup playfield DONE
9. Decide what to do about the insert (fisheyes)
10. Address the back glass flaking issues


I am not sure what everyone here uses for lubrication of metal on metal, I used some white lithium grease.

The drop target bank was not resetting correctly, it would work and then be very weak and not function.

I loosened the 4 screws holding the coil retainer bracket that allows the rod to pull clear from the coil and sleeve and be cleaned. It was filthy with a black grime that did not easily come off.

Once removed, I adjected the position from fully backed off to just a hair past the lowest position the rod would touch the stop.

This did the trick. The drop target bank resets every time now. I have a broken spring on the yellow target. Seems to be 98 cents at marcos.

I cleaned the coin door mech, I am missing one, and no coin box, I will have to make one.


I am not sure about the inserts, every single one is fish eyed...

The ones with txt are actually not bad at all. Which is suprising... Perhaps the larger surface area dissipated more heat?

I have not measuredthe smaller ones from the middle playfield or what looks like larger from up on top, but I am thinking I will be replacing them, and bagging to be put back in the cabinet if someone wanted to reinstall the originals.


I am leaning to replacing the lights with led bulbs, and the inserts with the colored transparent starburst designs that are available.

Currently it is very hard to distinguish between whitr and yellow, and blue and green...


Thoughts anyone? I will staple the originals inside the cabinet. But I want to replace them.
 
Was looking for some spare boards.... Accidentally won 4 of the 5 ebay items...

Apparently I will have 3 sys1 cpu boards and a driver board coming my way lol... Sadly did not get the psb boards... But I have two soo.. Missing one l plate not the mount.
 
Spare boards arrived today will check them out.

Also picked up couple cans of tripple thick to work on this back glass and a couple marquees I have.

So that section of this write-up will be next.
 
Will be working on this during chrostmas. Recap power supply and im trying to find a remote transistor mount.
 
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