Restoration Essentials.

prOk

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Ok, based on the volume of questions here about what product is good/bad etc for doing this that and the other thing I'm trying to start a quick page on my site to record some of the best items out there for a particular task. I've added some of my own personal favorites, lets hear yours and if enough people agree i'll add it to this page to help others in the future!

http://www.gamestencils.com/index.php?sc_page=44

Some items on this list are secrets i've never let go before :)

/brian
 
I use Brasso and a Scothbrite pad to clean rusty metal on coin doors and such. I have used Nevr-Dull (www.nevrdull.com) to polish metal before and it works great
 
A really ugly game to put your cab next to incase you do a crappy job and need to feel better by comparison. MAME is preferable.
 
Scotchbrite was already there, but I added Brasso (better than nevrdull) and referenced scotchbrites to use with it.

Added Steel Wool, but will avoid lighter fluid because the adhesive remover already there works a touch better and is not quite so flammable :)
 
Evapo-Rust for removing rust when steel wool doesn't cut it. Available at auto supply stores.
 
Naptha is my choice chemical cleaner works great on just about everything
Dosen't harm silkscreen inks or platics like goof off
Aso dosen't leave any oily resides and eveporates quickly
 
You should indicate if items like that STARTSUCK ACR will also take paint off.

You may also want to include: http://www.realmilkpaint.com/soygel.html

Awesome stuff. Works incredible at removing CPO adhesive... though it takes up paint as well so be careful. The smell isn't bad and it's non-toxic.
 
Cleaners

Turtle wax chrome polish works very well on lightly rusted chrome parts.



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3M safest stripper > Citristrip for painted over vinyl. Citristrip turns into a super nasty goo that is a royal PITA. 3M SS stays in a pudding consistency and cleans up easily. It is even safe enough to use indoors and without gloves. It is not good to use on laminated stuff though. It will etch it.

You already have never dull wadding on the list. I have used the Wal-mart brand Eagle One stuff. It works great on oxidized/rusted chrome parts.


I tried Naptha on the recommendation of others. That stuff is nasty with a capital N. I will NEVER use it again. I switch to 97% alcohol and never looked back.
 
Rust-olem textured paint makes metal parts look awesome.

Rust-olem Hammered Silver will make old, rusted, ugly pinball legs look like new. (however, it does chip sometimes. It's kind of a used car salesman trick) It can make some silver metal parts (such as coin door inserts on midway games, etc) look 'new' and interesting as well.

A Large Sharpie is essential for small touch ups and labeling stuff you pull apart. Essential for Pinballs (especially EMS)

A very large, low RPM, loose wire wheel will make bolts and silver metal parts shine like new as well. Don't get the coarse, tight wire wheels, or they scuff it all up.
 
Easy Off oven cleaner works great for getting grime out of textured CPO's! Spray on, wait 5 mins and wipe up. You'd be surprised how much grime it can pull out of the cracks.
 
Uh.. Don't forget the two most important items.

#1 Money
#2 Time

BTW Easy off oven clean is also a good engine degreaser, and removes paint.

Not sure I would use it on wood, or anything that would soak up the stuff. That would come back to bite you when you paint starts bubbling.
 
What is the recommendation for keeping cpo's pliable so they do not crack? Especially around the bend? Think...Galaga CPO. Would Armor-All actually make it more brittle?


My contribution......
20-30 gal compressor for general restoration needs, particularly

Sand blaster attachment for prepping metal parts

HVLP spray gun for painting

Straight nail driver 3/4" - 2 1/4" for cab repair

Air wand attachment - Replaces need for the bottled air.





..
 
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Plexus for cleaning and polishing plastics to an unholy glow. My secret is now yours as well
 
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