Restoration - Automotive Clear...

vbtalent

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I went looking for some Omni AU today and found that it was no longer being sold. So, I was interested in what everyone is using when clearing their playfields and what the results have been like.

My local paint dealer says that PPG still makes a "Shop Line" so I was leaning towards that.. anyone have any thoughts and or suggestions?

Thanks,

VB,
 
I always use Dupont Chroma-clear 7776. It cost a little more than Omni, but I think the results are better and the Dupont is easier to work with.
 
I attended quite a few automotive paint seminars and classes when working for a former employer and the "cheap" clearcoats are just that.they yellow over time,i am not talking years.they can and will yellow over the course of + or - 1 year.The top of the line clears put out by dupont,ppg and spies hecker stay clear and are extremely durable but you will pay for the quality dearly.if you are doing a high end pinball you probably will want to lean towards the better clear just so there is no heartache down the road when you notice the colors no
longer look quite right on your playfield and the only alternative is to live with it or do a playfield swap that can be expensive and definitely time consuming.just my 2 cents.
 
Dupont Chroma-clear

just remember that as soon as you drop that hardener in, isocyanate gas is produced. make sure you have either wrap around glasses or really good goggles. that gas is attracted to wet surfaces like your eyes like nuthin' ive ever seen before. also use a mask for breathing with organic filters. long sleve shirt and throw away jeans is in order.
i think the nazi's used that gas to exterminate the jews, so be careful with that stuff and dont get it on you.

dont forget to sand the playfield with some 1600+ sandpaper before you spray. wipe off the dust with a tack rag. dont worry about the scratches from the paper as they wont be seen after the clear reacts with the surface. i use all size corks for filling in all the holes from the pop bumpers and lamp holes(you can get those at ace/westlake hardware). i also make some custom covers for the drop target slits and rollover switches etc. so the clear doenst get down in there and interfere with the contacts etc. when i start to spray i hold the sprayer like 8 feet away from surface and give the surface a "flash" or a barely wet coat. wait a few minutes (10 ish) and then go in for the "regular" coat of clear. i might wait 30 minutes before a second coat only if it looks like i missed a spot. after about an hour, i remove the corks with a twist so the clear doesnt stick to the cork and pull off chunks when its too dry. wait 30 days before waxing. good luck its worth the work by far ! simply AMAZING.
 
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"i think the nazi's used that gas to exterminate the jews, so be careful with that stuff and dont get it on you"

That's scary... great tips by the way they will be extremely helpful. A paint suit is a great idea and I always wear a respirator when spraying, goggle's I wouldn't have thought of though..

I re-read Marvins write up on clears (http://www.marvin3m.com/clear/index.htm) and since I'll be following his guides he does like the Dupont clear as well "The winner was PPG's Omni AU MC161 (and MH167activator, aka Shopline JC661) and Dupont's ChromaClear 7600s (and 7675sactivator)" and I realize now that he was talking about the "Shopline" for the PPG.

"also use a mask for breathing with organic filters"

Do they make better and worse type of filtering for respirators? What's the diff on organic vs. charcoal?

Thanks guys for the input and information.

VB,
 
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