Reseating Current T-Molding

derSturm

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When the T-molding on an old machine is still in great shape but has fallen out on curves and bends and whatnot, what's the best way to reseat it? Is there a particular glue that outshines the rest? Do I really need to remove the molding, clean the old glue residue out from the groove, and start over? Or is there something I can squeeze into the trouble spots, tap the T back in, and get another 10 worry-free years?
 
You could drop a bead of adhesive into the groove itself. Or, if it's just a couple small spots, wrap the bottom of the t-molding with a couple small slivers of paper. If you increase the width of the t-molding just enough, it should hold tight, but not be a permanent solution like glue.

Unless of course you want to get really drastic and fill all the slots with bondo/wood filler and reroute them, which seems extremely drastic.

Whatever you do, just don't use staples, I have seen that and it's awful.
 
Gorilla Glue would be good as it expands as it dires and will fill the voids nicely.

Use it sparingly however ... a little bit goes a long way. And it will hold forever ...

Steve
MM
 
Good to know. I've had a bottle of Gorilla for over a year and haven't found a good reason to use it, yet. I've never used the stuff, as a matter of fact. Its excess will wipe up and away if one gets to it quickly enough?
 
Good to know. I've had a bottle of Gorilla for over a year and haven't found a good reason to use it, yet. I've never used the stuff, as a matter of fact. Its excess will wipe up and away if one gets to it quickly enough?


I've actually seen people have to sand it's excess off and repaint. But I think you've got a minute or two to get it off.
 
Best way to get T-molding to stay in if the slot is loose is to lay down a strip of duct tape before pressing the molding in. The duct tape takes up the excess room, and the adhesive holds well. That's what I used on my latest Dig Dug restore.
 
Best way to get T-molding to stay in if the slot is loose is to lay down a strip of duct tape before pressing the molding in. The duct tape takes up the excess room, and the adhesive holds well. That's what I used on my latest Dig Dug restore.

I like this.

Sticky side down into the hole or against the T-Molding?

Steve
MM
 
I like this.

Sticky side down into the hole or against the T-Molding?

Steve
MM

I don't think it matters, but I did sticky side down, to keep the strips in place before I malleted in the molding.

I just took a roll of duct tape and ripped the tape strips in half to get the width I needed. Depending on how wide your roll of tape is, you might do yours in thirds.
 
Best way to get T-molding to stay in if the slot is loose is to lay down a strip of duct tape before pressing the molding in. The duct tape takes up the excess room, and the adhesive holds well. That's what I used on my latest Dig Dug restore.

This is the same as the paper trick I mentioned before. Anything to take up a little bit of the excess space between the wood and the t-molding.
 
You probably need to be careful and just use what you need. Depending on the cabinet material you may end up splitting it if the material you use stretches the channel too much.

I tend to use hotmelt glue in the corners. I will pull the t-molding out until I get to a poiint past where it is pulling out, stretch and carefully tap it in and just before I get to a problem area or a bend, dab some hotmelt glue in and then tap the t-molding in before the glue hardens up. Repeat until the t-molding is all in place.

ken
 
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