Reproduction PCB opinions

Projammer

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Doing some research for a project to reproduce some hard to find aux boards for machines like the Journey amp board with cassette interface and wanted to get some input from the people that would be most likely to use them.

First up. The actual boards. Would I be better off simply duplicating the existing board and having the word "Reproduction" etched into the copper to keep people from trying to flip then as NOS? More expensive, but will look authentic until examined closely.

Or redesign the circuit with modern components to perform the same functions. A considerably cheaper proposition from the component cost and construction standpoint. Extensive use of SMD and bundled component devices to reduce component counts.

Second. What other boards would be good candidates? I'm not looking for big runs with big profits, but I won't be able to do much if I'm taking a bath on it either. Break even or a little better is the target.

Third. I don't see that this needs to be limited to video games. Pins and jukes are just as eligible too. I'll just have to rely more on testers for feedback.
 
From a cost stand point.. you need to find the price point that most people can afford. Then only take pre-payments or at least down payments from a requisit number of people before production. I see it done all the time over on the Droid builders forums.
 
Yeah- there's NO point in making an exact replica of a 14.5" by 15.5" board when you could accurately reproduce the functionality with a lot lower component count.

The only thing I would expect would be plug-and-play ability. Keep the same connection endpoints or provide an adapter to fit into an original cab.

Kerry
 
The old question of keeping it close to original as possible or go with modern ways.

If the parts are impossible to find, I say you have no choice to go with newer parts. While having a nice pcb board is great. It does not do anyone any good if you can find the parts to build it.

It the PCB your going to reproduce is known to have certain issues correcting it should not be a really an issue. Producing defective pcb should never the goal of this hobby.

So if you go down the upgrade path how modern do you go? Going too far you might end up with 1n60 design. Yes it stable but it is so far from the original it is not the same game anymore.

Simple answer is just enough to be stable and where hobbyist can find parts.
 
Ideas:

Combo Battlezone/Red baron Aux board (config for one or the other) - Go modern and make it much more reliable. Target Price - if modernized, around $100. The challenge is replacing the POKEY function or using a socket to add the original pokey.

Asteroids to Asteroids deluxe adapter (and vice versa in same adapter with jumpers). Simple version:
Don't worry about the audio mismatch (well documented). Folks can modify their AR if they wish.

Bill
 
A few more details then.

The project isn't about reproducing the games themselves, but rather the support boards that get tossed when they get separated from the main system and whoever has them can't remember what they were for.

The Journey cassette controller for example. As far as I know they weren't used in any other game so there's nothing to use as a donor except another Journey.

Another cost reducing objective is to do 3 or 4 different boards in the same run having them all etched/masked/screened on a single board and then cutting them apart when they arrive. I'm looking at a quote for 50 12x12 boards for 26.50 ea. Break that down into 3, 4, or even 5 driver boards and the prices are quite reasonable.

Preorders will certainly be required before actually sending files out for processing, but that's further down the road once numbers have been firmed up. Right now I'm just trying to get a feel for what the market wants.

NOS appearing boards at a higher price. Nothing extreme, just higher. The target would be around the NOS price. Unless the NOS is outrageous because of scarcity, then the price will be more reasonable.

Or less expensive but functional equivalents using modern components.

Custom chips didn't appear too often on driver boards so that's not a major concern. If there is one that there's enough demand for, and the chip function is well enough documented, there's a real possibility it can be duplicated with a PIC circuit and boards produced based on that.
 
I wouldn't worry about your boards somehow being mistaken for NOS boards and hurting the market for them. This is an aux board and not a reproduction cartridge for a cartridge system.

I would be more concerned that you would be able to sell more than a handful of something for such a rare title as Journey. Cheapest price point is what is going to drive the sales. The 5 people out there that would care what the thing looked like would insist on an original board anyway.
 
Hurting the NOS market wasn't the concern. I just don't want some unscrupulous reseller to buy repros and flip them as NOS.
 
Hurting the NOS market wasn't the concern. I just don't want some unscrupulous reseller to buy repros and flip them as NOS.

You could just shift one chip lower just to make it look odd or make the by pass caps SMT instead of through hole.

you will have the same functional board without the fear of a reseller selling it as Nos.
 
Dont repeat the mistakes of past programmers! make it more reliable and smaller...Jrok's multiwilliams is a great example.....I don't want original, I want something that I can use to play in my cabinet for many years to come without any hiccups whatsover....shot in the corner bug? bah, thats for saps!
 
I would say if you don't mind putting in the development and testing time, then redesign the thing for modern (smaller/reliable/available) components, but interface via original connectors: best of both.

That's not to say the repro Omega Race board was quick or easy, but redesigning it would have taken (me at least) a lot more time. Plus I'm senti-mental.

The question in my mind would be, how would you test it? Obviously there's the testing to get the board running, but how do you verify it's 100% accurate compared to the original? And if it isn't, how do you determine what and why?
 
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