Reproduction Paperboy Controller

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Daviea

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I figured I would create a new thread dedicated to this subject.

I've been keeping the Paperboy controller progress under wraps....mainly because I don't want there to be any drama about it.

However, since I'm getting a LOT of the parts finished and it's getting close, I'm going to tease you with this JPG of the complete 3D Solidworks model (minus the small components). :)

pb_housing_complete_assembly_reva.jpg


This thing uses a LOT of sheet metal. Luckily, this is something which is right up my alley. The original handlebars were NICKEL plated which looks nice. However, I was thinking of going with a nickel-chrome finish so I could get that mirror shine. Comments?

I've cut ALL the sheet metal parts and I've made MOST of the components for this controller. I still need:

Spacer Bearing

Springs (both type) - I ran these while back but I screwed them up by running them the wrong direction. Whoops!! I was still getting used to my spring making machine at the time...yeah, that's it. LOL

Light Blue handles

Shaft Collar

Handlebar Tubes

White leaf switch buttons & leaf switches.



I've got the remainder under control.

Enjoy!!

Dave
 
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Very nice but I would stick with the original nickle plating. looking at the newly nickle plated handle bars in chris's paperboy resto, the original nickle is plenty shiny enough. Plus it's original.
 
I say keep it original unless you are fixing a design flaw that affects the performance/reliability/longevity etc.

Having that said, it wouldn't stop me from buying the repro if I needed it.
 
Are you improving upon the original design? ie: The metal tab/ forward motion stop inside the controller? On the one I restored, that tab was bent forward and was sheared 80% along the tab's connection with the internal metal collar. Seems it is a common failure point or at least a weak point for sure.
 
Phet,

I did improve upon seven minor issues, yes.

Can you show me some close-up pictures of the tweaked controller? I've never seen this failure before, but I can definitely improve upon this quite easily. More metal, different metal, thicker plating, better welding, etc. Atari went on the cheap (which is completely understandable) but I don't have to. Right now is the perfect time for me to address these issues.

Dave

Are you improving upon the original design? ie: The metal tab/ forward motion stop inside the controller? On the one I restored, that tab was bent forward and was sheared 80% along the tab's connection with the internal metal collar. Seems it is a common failure point or at least a weak point for sure.
 
I happen to like the look of nickel plate, too.

Atari applied "protective" layer of nickel to their handlebars which is the thinnest you can go. As a result, their handlebars tend to corrode and rust prematurely.

If I went with nickel only or nickel-chrome(which is unlikely), I would use a decorative application which means it's super THICK plating. You get the benefits of corrosion/rust prevention with a superb finish on top of it. I'm sure that's what Chris went with, too.

Hey, nickel by itself is a lot less cost than nickel-chrome, plus it's original. Why not just stick with it? I'll go with decorative, though.

Dave

Very nice but I would stick with the original nickle plating. looking at the newly nickle plated handle bars in chris's paperboy resto, the original nickle is plenty shiny enough. Plus it's original.
 
Phet,

I did improve upon seven minor issues, yes.

Can you show me some close-up pictures of the tweaked controller? I've never seen this failure before, but I can definitely improve upon this quite easily. More metal, different metal, thicker plating, better welding, etc. Atari went on the cheap (which is completely understandable) but I don't have to. Right now is the perfect time for me to address these issues.

Dave

I don't, but if someone would remove the center cover, and shoot a pic from the top down I could point it out. I sold mine a while back. My solution was to epoxy a postage stamp sized piece of 1/16" galvanized sheet metal to the top of the collar, running the edge above the broken tab to have the forward range of motion stop in the same place. The stress on the original tab occurs when the handle is pushed forward too hard over and over.
 
Dave, do you have the coolest job in the whole wide world or what? Somehow you manage to run a company, give away a bunch of really cool stuff for FREE and in the mean time able to find time to get into these reproduction projects...

Thanks, however you are doing it...thanks again and keep up the great work.
 
Actually, I already made one improvement to this problem by sheer coincidence. Atari originally used HRP&O (Hot Rolled Pickled & Oiled) steel for their parts. I use CRS (Cold Rolled Steel) which has a much higher tensile strength that the counterpart. Also, I'm using TIG welding for most of my parts which gives a superior strength weld than what Atari used. About the only other thing I can to improve this would be to take that original "stop" and increase it's size a little so I can get more surface area around it's circumference to weld against.

....unless I am misunderstanding the actual problem.

Dave


Are you improving upon the original design? ie: The metal tab/ forward motion stop inside the controller? On the one I restored, that tab was bent forward and was sheared 80% along the tab's connection with the internal metal collar. Seems it is a common failure point or at least a weak point for sure.
 
Actually, I already made one improvement to this problem by sheer coincidence. Atari originally used HRP&O (Hot Rolled Pickled & Oiled) steel for their parts. I use CRS (Cold Rolled Steel) which has a much higher tensile strength that the counterpart. Also, I'm using TIG welding for most of my parts which gives a superior strength weld than what Atari used. About the only other thing I can to improve this would be to take that original "stop" and increase it's size a little so I can get more surface area around it's circumference to weld against.

....unless I am misunderstanding the actual problem.

Dave

Nope, you understand perfectly. My problem with the design was the reason for a 'peninsula' tab with a space behind it as the stop. Why not just have a solid piece?
 
Ahh, I get it now.

I thought you were talking about the "stop" (the little cylindrical nub) on this part:

bar_left_assembly_reva.jpg


but you're really talking about the sheet metal "stop" on the front of this part:

housing_assembly_reva.jpg


There's actually a reason for that being there, but it's not completely necessary. Luckily, the fact that I used CRS instead of HRP&O will alleviate most of the issue right off the bat.

Dave

Nope, you understand perfectly. My problem with the design was the reason for a 'peninsula' tab with a space behind it as the stop. Why not just have a solid piece?
 
Ahh, I get it now.

I thought you were talking about the "stop" (the little cylindrical nub) on this part:

bar_left_assembly_reva.jpg


but you're really talking about the sheet metal "stop" on the front of this part:

housing_assembly_reva.jpg


There's actually a reason for that being there, but it's not completely necessary. Luckily, the fact that I used CRS instead of HRP&O will alleviate most of the issue right off the bat.

Dave

Well I guess you didn't understand, but now you do. That is the part I am talking about. What was it's reasoning?
 
I do happen to love my job. :)

It's my pleasure helping people out with the freebies. :)

Dave

Dave, do you have the coolest job in the whole wide world or what? Somehow you manage to run a company, give away a bunch of really cool stuff for FREE and in the mean time able to find time to get into these reproduction projects...

Thanks, however you are doing it...thanks again and keep up the great work.
 
I do happen to love my job. :)

It's my pleasure helping people out with the freebies. :)

Dave

And lightning fast shipping of those freebies too -- I received my package today! When you said to expect UPS on Tues/Wed I thought you meant you would drop it off at UPS Tues/Wed. Wow!

Thanks!

Chris
 
Reproduction Paperboy Controller.

Hey was that solid model done parametrically? I'm a designer myself but we use Unigraphics.
 
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