Replacing Width Cap in K7000

NoAffinity

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Hey guys, I recently had Buffett service my K7193 chassis, out of my big blue. The video it produces now looks better than ever, but the image will not fill the screen horizontally. It comes up about 3/4" short on either edge. I've completely removed the slug in the horizontal width adjustment coil, and that's the max it will do horizontally.

So, I've got a width cap kit from Buffett, to try to remedy this situation. I watched the only video I could find on youtube about his subject, which mentions replacing multiple caps. This one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuTlChCko4k

Buffett said it would be necessary to experiment with the caps, making it sound like it's just one.

So, my question: which cap or caps do I need to attack with this cap kit?

(Buffett, if you're out there, please chime in) :)
 

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C38 on that K7000 and when you decrease the capacitance value it increases the size and when you increase the capacitance value it decreases the size. i put a dozen different values in my kits to make it easier for the customer so your not doubling up the caps to create the other values with instructions.
 
Thanks guys. Replaced with a 474k cap. Letting it warm up now, and will start messing with the width coil.

I'm running cps 1 and cps 2 boards. It's the same result on all of them.
 
So there seems to be zero improvement with the 474k cap. Still about 3/4 of dead space at the edges, with the hw slug completely removed from the coil. Prior to recapping and on the backup k7193 I was running in here, the screen extended all the way to the edges and beyond. Am I being too ocd about this? Just like the image to fill the screen.

https://klovimg.com/image/xdpc
 
What value was in there to begin with?

Stock C38 value is 390nF (390000pF) 5% which would be 394J

If you went up to a 474K that would shrink the width not increase it
 
It say 'jl.39j pd200v'. Replaced with 'h250 474k'. Going to an 'h400 224k' next. I've also got a 'cbb22 104 1600v' and a dmma 'dp33k 33mfd+-10% 480vac cdet'. I'm not sure how to read the values, given the differences in labeling from one to another. Suggestions?
 
The letter after the number is the tolerance, J means 5% & K means 10%

When you have a code like 474K or 224K, the 3rd digit is the number of zeros to add to the first 2 digits, and the letter K = 10% tolerance

so

474K = 470000pF 10% tolerance
224K = 220000pF 10% tolerance

The one you took out originally (jl.39j pd200v) is 0.39uF J which is a 390000pF 5% cap

Try the 224K next & then try the "cbb22 104 1600v" which is a 100000pF (the smallest value from those you mentioned.)
 
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Thanks, that helps. :) I've got the 224k in and it is a bit larger than the screen, with the hw slug fully inserted. The right most 1 inch of the screen is a bit scrunched too. Backing out the hw slug causes it to extend beyond the viewable area of the screen. Is there a way to get a happy medium, between the 474k and 224k?
 
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It seems if I adjust v pos so it is all the way left, the scrunched part expansion out to normal. But...the image is about 1-2" off the left side of the screen. I tried messing with the horiz pos pin next to the hw coil, moving that wire from 'c' to 'r' and 'l'. It did what you'd expect, shifting the base position from centered to offset a bit to the right and offset a bit to the left. But no relief for the scrunched right side issue.

If there's no happy medium, I can live with it as is, with screen filled and some minimal image scrunch (I'm sure that's not the technical term) on the right side. Not really noticeable in game.
 
Yep, the 'dp33k 33mfd+-10% 480vac cdet' did it. Screen is filled. Thank you for all the help guys!



Now, to spend the next hour or so color and white balancing. I swear, I get it almost right, then find some little annoyance with the balancing, and make it significantly worse by chasing perfection. :/
 
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