Replacing HV anode cups, anyone tried these ?

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I have to replace a really bad HV cup from a Wintron fly-back. It is one of those "see-through" plastic versions and thus has deteriorated much (like the Hantarex 900 do)

Now I found this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Color-TV-Fl...ltDomain_0&hash=item4ab3d91860#ht_1529wt_1071

but the picture puzzles me a bit...
$(KGrHqF,!k8E8DvIBUbuBPMb8rGvHg~~60_12.JPG


This clearly shows the cut-off (red) HV wire. I assume that that won't be there, but how would the wire be connected to the metal "clamp" or "spring" ? I think normally this is welded ?? I don't think soldering is a good idea/possible ?

Alternatively, I found these:
http://www.donberg.ie/descript/e/eht_cap2.htm

They are more expensive but they look better quality to me and they look like they are meant to be mounted on an existing HV cable (see the connector with turnable head)
http://www.donberg.ie/descript/e/eht_cap2.htm#

Has anyone used the cheaper one's before to success ? There really is a significant price difference and Donberg had a 10 euro minimum order limit plus pretty heft shipping charges so I would like to order the cheaper one's if they will work OK....
 
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The problem is that the original clip of the Wintron has really bad rust on it and I don't trust it to give a good conduction of the HV...

Since the price is so low I decided to just order a dozen of them....we'll see....

Thanks anyway !
 
They don't get hot, so soldering shouldn't be an issue. Electrically, the only difference between HV and low voltage is the insulation and/or air gap required. You could even solder/splice/heat shrink an HV wire, but I'd advise that you stay clear of that joint going forward...
 
Yeah I thought about that but I'm doing this for someone else and I want it to be professional and safe.

In theory it should be possible to make a safe splice using the correct insulation (don't think heat-shrink is up to those voltages though) but I prefer not to in this case. If it would be for myself I'd have less problems.

Anyway, if these cups are OK I also solved the problem of the terrible Hantarex 900 HV cups....
 
It's easy to solder... just feed the wire through the rubber cup, pull out enough to make it easy to solder... and when done feed it back down into the proper position inside the cup.

The trick when soldering a high voltage wire is to wrap the wire around the metal piece and glob on the solder. You want a big rounded ball of solder on it and no "pointy" bits of wire or solder sticking out. That's where you get coronal discharge and hissing noises from around the cup from the HV leaking.
 
The el-cheapo cups arrived today:

12 pcs in a bag...for almost nothing...
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Close up...
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I saw on the pictures of the ad on e-bay that there was a cut wire in the cup. I thought this was just an "example". Turns out all of them have cut wires so it looks like these were actually cut from HVT's or maybe just out of TV's or something......
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With some prying it wasn't that hard to remove the wire and clip.
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After a wiggle or four the wire comes loose...........
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The cups are pretty small. Here comparing to a more "regular" cup....
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Size doesn't say that much though. The standard cups on a Wintron/Lexel HVT are about the same size and they work fine on 25" tubes.

All in all.....I will use the spring and put it in the big cup for this application. I had that larger cup from a dead HVT.

They look useable enough for me should I need in the future but it takes some DIY...
 
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