I have to say I'm a little freaked out by Gamefixer's comment that the natural colored LEDs badly bleached the packaging of the toys in just a few months.
Those were florescents in the top of a Key Master.
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I have to say I'm a little freaked out by Gamefixer's comment that the natural colored LEDs badly bleached the packaging of the toys in just a few months.
I wonder if a uv blocking clear window film in front of any light source led or tube based will slow down the deteriorating effects of the light.
Wow, I just pulled out the 3 LED strips I ordered 3-4 months ago and tested them tonight with a 12v battery pack.
Those things are really bright!
And the color difference between the cool white and warm white is pretty dramatic too.
Andrew, is there a straightforward way of separating the two cool white strips that they shipped me? They're joined with an obvious seam so I could wiggle them back and forth until the boards come apart or I could cut along the seam with a wire cutter but what did you do? I don't want to mess them up. Or my wire cutter.![]()
heres an example of the anemic white +6000k tubes (NOT LED's) and what they do in our Key Masters. That box in the upper right used to be dark red.
I got a couple from Amazon to put into my Bromley Rock 'n Bowl. No issues, was rather simple to put in. The advantage was not having to tie into game's 12v. The downside - since I got the ones that needed the ballast cut out - was having to take the assembly out and open it up to cut and attach wires as needed.Anyone ever just go the route of a LED tube that fits directly into the existing fixture?
https://www.1000bulbs.com/category/t8-retrofit-led-tubes-4100k-2-foot/
For $6 and bypassing the current ballast (or they have options to use existing ballast)
They seem similar in nature to the strips but have the light diffusing tube already built and practically plug-n-play
just curious if anyone has feedback?
I got a couple from Amazon to put into my Bromley Rock 'n Bowl. No issues, was rather simple to put in. The advantage was not having to tie into game's 12v. The downside - since I got the ones that needed the ballast cut out - was having to take the assembly out and open it up to cut and attach wires as needed.
However, for that game, it was a lot easier than putting in LED strips with a power supply or tying into game's 12v supply.
They put out fantastic light - the color matched the existing tubes exactly, so the artwork looks just the same.
Unless the machines are on for 12-16 hours a day I dont think a collector has much to worry about.
Its us operators that have stuff thats getting torn up.
You're getting flickering from an LED bar?
Check the power supply, and wiring.
The lady across the street spent hundreds replacing her front porch/driveway lights with "high end" LED fixtures... like $100 per fixture. They ALL 3 blink now after two years. The first one that started blinking looks like a freakin' strobe light. The other two are much much faster blinkers... but blink none the less. They started the 2nd year.
burn
out after a few weeks (can someone explain why this happens ?).
I even mounted
a 12 volt regulator on the bulb housing and the bulbs still turn silver and burn
out after a few weeks (can someone explain why this happens ?).
This typically happens when the bulb is getting more voltage than it's rated for. The higher current 'boils' the filament, and it vaporizes, and the metal condenses on the glass.
If you accidentally put a 5V bulb in a 12V socket, you'll see this pretty quickly. The bulb will burn very bright for a while, then burn out and the glass will be silver.
If it's happening slowly, I'd guess you're likely still somehow getting too much voltage on it. See if there's any extra AC riding on the DC.
Yup, being on too long will do that. I'm guessing she has them on all night?
These LED's would last longer if two things were done.
Their power supply's suck! They are just good enough to supply the LED's with the correct voltage and current. When the supplies break down they start passing AC into the LED's. Not good for the LED's. Thats likely what your neighbor is seeing.
Better heat sinks. You wouldnt think it but LED's create A LOT of heat. Not as much as a normal might bulb but enough to melt plastic. If they were given better heat sinks they wouldnt burn up as fast.
I believe they are on sensors so yeah, on all night, off all day.
Are they wired or wireless? Could be batteries dying too. Rechargeable Li batteries dont fade like NiCads do. The turn off and back on again.