Replaced Flyback, Ticking Sound, No Image From Monitor: WG U2000 25"

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Replaced Flyback, Ticking Sound, No Image From Monitor: WG U2000 25"

I bought a Neo Geo MVS machine that came with a non-working 25" WG U2000 (25k2193). The monitor was working prior to the the prior owner moving, then went out, and was diagnosed by him as the flyback. I replaced the flyback (my first time ever doing that). I believe to have all the other wires hooked up correctly (my first time installing a chassis). I did not replace any capacitors (I do have a cap kit but wanted to see how the monitor looked before replacing all of them).

When turning on the machine, all I get from the monitor is a ticking sound that repeats at constant intervals. The tube nor anything else lights up. I tried the monitor in a different cabinet with the same results.

What ever shall I do?!?!?
 
The HOT could have blown, or it could be in shutdown. These monitors are really finicky when it comes to shutdown. Have you metered the B+?
 
Thanks for the replies. Since being new to this, I am not familiar with either of the items mentioned.

-What is the B+? How do I check it? What should it be at? Is the HOT something that can be replaced? (Did some more research and answered these questions)

-Is the 8 pin IC something that can be replaced? How do I check if it is bad?
 
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Did some more reading it it sounded like some people with the same issue all they did was adjust the B+ and it solved the problem. Looked through the manual and the knob looks to be one close to the flyback that has the goop over it, sealed from the factory. Going to try adjusting that. If that doesn't work, I might send in the chassis in for further evaluation/work as it seems the further steps/servicing from this point is beyond my knowledge/skill level. For example, if the HOT needs replacing, other caps and transistors should be replaced as well? Etc. etc. etc.
 
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Well... I can't believe it but it is fixed! Cleaned some of the goop off... adjusted the knob... eventually got an awful picture on the screen... adjusted and tweaked.... looks great! So it ended up being the B+ adjustment. Thanks again for the help.
 
Congrats on the fix man!

Also, congrats on taking the time to research the feedback given, as it's a breath of fresh air.. Can't tell you how many people take the time to post asking "what's this" or "how do I do that" before taking all of 10mins to read or search google..

2 high fives
 
I will gladly accept those two high fives. Electrical stuff is my weakness so all this monitor repair stuff is quite daunting at first. Like learning a new language with all the terms but that I guess is part of the fun with this hobby.

Also, big thanks to Gottifour for being an honest seller and also giving me a nice deal on the machine.

The issue did pop up again with the screen having no picture and just ticking. Adjusted the B+ again, came back on, went back out, adjusted, came back on, went back out... did that for a little while then came back on perfectly. Since then I have had the machine on and off throughout the rest of the day and it has not done that/has work perfectly so hopefully everything is all good.
 
If it was glued, you shouldn't have had to adjust it. Your HOT is failing. Turning it down has just altered the operating window, which is why it was finicky for a while and is working now that it's been adjusted down far enough. Your B+ is probably low now, too. Replace the HOT, then set your B+ properly, then leave it alone. Recap it while you have it out...
 
I had a feeling this journey might not be over yet. Recommendation on where to acquire the HOT? Haven't called any places yet but am not seeing HOT's listed on their sites. I do have a cap kit but do not know which caps I am supposed to replace. Should I have some sort of "cap map", if so where to get it?
 
My signature has a link with the cap list. Replace all electrolytic caps except the NP and filter caps.

The HOT should be a C3686, usually listed as a 2SC3686, but you may have better luck finding the NTE replacement - NTE2324...
 
Yep, listen to Modessitt.. New hot and cap kit.. Also is a good idea to reflow solder on neck board trannies (3) and anywhere on the chassis that looks brown or black.. Always reflow solder on the header pins (rgb/snyc connector from game to chassis).

Good luck!

If it was glued, you shouldn't have had to adjust it. Your HOT is failing. Turning it down has just altered the operating window, which is why it was finicky for a while and is working now that it's been adjusted down far enough. Your B+ is probably low now, too. Replace the HOT, then set your B+ properly, then leave it alone. Recap it while you have it out...
 
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