Replace original Millipede sideart?

Wolfsbora

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What do you folks think about replacing the original Millipede sideart (due to damage and tar stains)? Does it affect the authenticity of the cabinet? The serial numbers all match, and I even have the original (1st edition) manuals that came with it.

Due to damage to the marquee vinyl and CPO, I have no choice but to replace that.

The worst of the damage is at the white point that meets the point of the CP. I plan to repair it with either a dado and new MDF for that small section. Or, try and use some type of wood filler.

You can see the damage in the photo. It also shows the grey streak across the base that I can't completely remove.

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It depends on your taste. If that was my game and was going in between two other games I wouldn't replace anything. I think it looks pretty good except the bottom.

That corner could be patched with bondo using the t-molding as a guide. Lay it on its side and let gravity help level the bondo when wet. Then touch up with paint. You'll still be able to see it but, again, depends on what you want in your game room.
 
Dude leave it, it looks good except the bottom i'd rather have some mildly beat up art rather than some new crap. It's from the 80's it's lucky to be alive still.
 
You guys are right. It's absolutely original. The odd "spraying" that goes across at an angle from the millipede to the spider actually came off, as well as in other places. I've even gotten some of that grey on the bottom off and have a feeling that I can do even more. Thanks, guys! This forum is awesome for honest answers.
 
Try a test spot on the bottom with a magic eraser with brake cleaner... The combo has surprised me with what it removes... Just don't use it on the CPO
 
Damn 8bit beat me to it ... MAGIC ERASER for the win here. Clean it up, do some patching/paint as necessary, maybe a new CPO, fix the electronics and play it. :cool:
 
Well, I'm finding the right side to be much more difficult, and overall has more damage. I got some of the 'Heavy Duty' version of Simple Green and a crap ton of magic erasers. After spending hours on the left side, it has come out alright. The left side has what appears to be soda stains, more of that weird white spray (that fortunately comes off), but the tar has basically spotted all over it. I've barely made a dent. I also forgot to mention that the front-bottom corner was so terribly "patched" up by someone that didn't care, so that'll take time to chip out and replace.

I do plan to replace the t-molding, as it is quite beat up (as you can imagine). With that said, I am worried about that left side's CP corner. If I go ahead and throw some DAP Plastic Wood or some bondo in there, it'll be impossible to replace the t-molding since it will basically lock it in place. Any advice for this?
 
Well, I'm finding the right side to be much more difficult, and overall has more damage. I got some of the 'Heavy Duty' version of Simple Green and a crap ton of magic erasers. After spending hours on the left side, it has come out alright. The left side has what appears to be soda stains, more of that weird white spray (that fortunately comes off), but the tar has basically spotted all over it. I've barely made a dent. I also forgot to mention that the front-bottom corner was so terribly "patched" up by someone that didn't care, so that'll take time to chip out and replace.

I do plan to replace the t-molding, as it is quite beat up (as you can imagine). With that said, I am worried about that left side's CP corner. If I go ahead and throw some DAP Plastic Wood or some bondo in there, it'll be impossible to replace the t-molding since it will basically lock it in place. Any advice for this?

Bondo will shrink just a little when it cures and back off of the t-molding. I use t-molding as a guide to repair corners all of the time.
 
Bondo will shrink just a little when it cures and back off of the t-molding. I use t-molding as a guide to repair corners all of the time.
Really good point! So, I should be able to remove the old t-molding after the Bondo has been applied? Or, should I do the new t-molding first?
 
Really good point! So, I should be able to remove the old t-molding after the Bondo has been applied? Or, should I do the new t-molding first?

If you're replacing the t-molding anyway then pull it all off. Cut out the piece that makes up the corner you are repairing, leaving 6" or so on each side. Put that piece back on, lay the cab on its side, and fill the area with bondo. I usually do several layers. If there's enough material where you can get a couple of nails or screws into the cabinet so they protrude into your repair area that will help make it stronger. If the repair area is large you can use the bondo that has the "hair" in it for a first layer. And then regular bondo for final layers. For a repair this size I would do at least 3 layers.
 
If you're replacing the t-molding anyway then pull it all off. Cut out the piece that makes up the corner you are repairing, leaving 6" or so on each side. Put that piece back on, lay the cab on its side, and fill the area with bondo. I usually do several layers. If there's enough material where you can get a couple of nails or screws into the cabinet so they protrude into your repair area that will help make it stronger. If the repair area is large you can use the bondo that has the "hair" in it for a first layer. And then regular bondo for final layers. For a repair this size I would do at least 3 layers.
It's a shame that I can't rep you anymore today, that is some awesome advice. I'll be referring back to this post when I get to that point. The next question is: do I look for a paint that appears to be tar stained for the bondo so that it matches the vinyl? :p
 
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