Repinning PCBs/connectors...need some advice..

Frax

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So I found out the GI connector is burnt on my STTNG...HUGE SHOCK, AMIRITE?

The secondary GI string is flaky and the primary one is a bit weak it seems, no wonder. I've never repinned JACK. I don't have crimpers or any of the needed tools other than a soldering gun and a soldapullt.

Given that I've ever done very little PCB work at all, should I just see if I can find someone to help me out, or pay someone? I have a feeling by the time I buy the tools I actually need I'm probably halfway to paying someone to do it anyways. I also need some driver transistors on Stargate (MOSFETS, actually, I think...stupid Gottlieb and their differences..) diagnosed and replaced, but I'm pretty sure I'm up to that on my own..

Trying to figure out what to do on an extreme budget here, I don't want to leave it as-is, because the connector is already browned and partially melted on one end, it's only going to get worse and maybe catch fire like Shuttle's GI did before I got it! Not cool!
 
First, Am I your friend? Listen to me on this.

This will not be the last time you'll have to do this. You need a good set of crimpers and some TRIFURCON .156 pins and connectors. You also need some header pins for on the board. I buy everything but the crimpers from Bob Roberts. He might have nice ones, mine are made by Weldon or something like that. This is annoying, but really easy to do and the fix should be permanent. Call me and I'll walk you through it.

-Al-
 
Actually, for the GI connectors you're probably better off with the ones that Ed at GPE carries.

The 41695 series Molex connectors, when used with pins #45570-3050 are good for 13 amps each, almost double the rating for the trifurcon pins.

-Hans
 
Hello Frax,

I don't want to tell you what you should do, instead I want to tell you what I do and let you decide for yourself what is best.

The burnt connector is caused by heat generated by a poor connection and the fact the game was turned on for 8+ hours at a time. The TRIFURCON .156 pins make better contact the the IDC connector that originally came on the game.

What I do is: I replace the entire female connector with TRIFURCON pins: which I buy from great plains electronics (gpe). I use (likely) the best crimper money can buy, made by Sargent Tools, sold by gpe. But at $99 it can be a deal breaker for some. You can use another crimper, gpe sells one for $20 or so that does a pretty good job.

If the new female connector holds up (doesn't turn brown), then I leave well enough alone. Remember the new connector is making 3 times the contact as the old one, and the game is only on for an hour or 2

For the male pins, I send all my boards out to coin op cauldren. An odd transitor here or there I will replace myself. I don't own a soldiering station, which most say you need to do board work. I just have a $8 soldiering iron. A replacement power driver board is roughly $250. Having 1 rebuilt is about $100.
 
I've got a "station" but it's a dingly little thing, it's not like it's a Haako 888 or something LOL.

I know deep down that I need to just suck it up and buy this equipment to make my future life easier, but after having spent 1500 on stargate, 200 on galaga cocktail, went on vacation, spent money on TPF, broke the cannon on TNG (40 in parts, if they ever get here..NOT including new wiring harnesses which I need also. :| )..... spending about 200-300 on equipment's pretty much out of the question. My work totally cut off overtime since they hired a bunch of noobs... I probably won't have any more until mid-summer when they get off their high horse and people walk or get fired, means I'm on lockdown as far as expenses go.

I've got some stuff I can sell if I can ever figure out how to ship and pack it so that I'm not losing 40$ on the deal. (Stupid CPS2 boards!!!)
 
I need the One Tool...but at least odds that I'll be doing anything other than .156 is pretty slim...

One tool to rule them all, One tool to find them,
One tool to secure them all and in the cabling bind them.


So looks like my choices are $18, $26 or $100 LOL. Looks like "Product ID: 3136-CT" on GPE is the crazy high end one. Might just buy the 26$ one and do some practice on spare wires I have lying around and then if I get comfortable doing it with those, go ahead and do it, and then buy the expensive ones later....
 
It's a bit of an up-front investment, but well worth it. Bob Roberts does carry the crimper, but you can pick one up at Fry's cheaper than what he charges if memory serves - and they're local to you.

For that matter, Fry's also carries relatively cheap Weller soldering stations - WLC100 or something similar is pretty cheap, and gets the job done.

You can pick up the iron, crimpers, and a bag of connectors for under $100.

If you've not soldered much, practice on some junk boards - it's a skill that will save you tons of time and money!
 
Frys number 1 only has headers up to 10 pins. I need 11. No housings, and no trifurcons or the higher amp stuff at all.
 
Bob Roberts:
http://therealbobroberts.net/parts.html#tools

Scroll down to: HT-1921 Crimping Tool - $16.00

Buy that.

http://therealbobroberts.net/conectas.html

Scroll down to:

.156 Housing with pins 11 pos (Trifurcon Pins) $1.25

Buy that.

Scroll up to:

.156 Straight headers 24 position $1.00

Buy that.

Other than the soldering Iron and accounting for Shipping, you're at $25-$26 and you've got a tool that will last a lifetime and work perfectly after you learn to use it. I'll videochat you through that.

Now stop whining!

(I would buy a few different connectors and more than one set of header pins to have on hand, but I'm trying to demonstrate that $25 is all it will take this time and $2.50 the next).
 
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Great info here (and this post mainly serves as my bookmark to it for later. ;) )
 
Oh, I have everything sourced online. Was just seeing IF I can get it locally. We're going to another fry's to look. If I have to wait a week to get it done, no big deal.

I did find out that when I went to ID the connectors for the GI, that some ASSHAT soldered one wire directly to a pin (on the wrong connector..), then the burnt connectors were put back on backwards. The one connector obviously is so burned it's missing the last pin slot which is why they did it, but damn...

I could swear this machine was probably never on location (no lockbar holes) or in a very light use location....you'd think these guys getting paid 80/hour to go out and service these things for these clueless dorks would take the time to do a proper job given how much money they're making in the process.

*edit* Hey, my game's date of Manufacture is 11/18/93. That's the month the game was released..that mean it's one of the first? :p Another odd thing..the sticker on the back says 230 volts @ 50hz. This game was exported and reimported?
 
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you'd think these guys getting paid 80/hour to go out and service these things for these clueless dorks would take the time to do a proper job given how much money they're making in the process.

You would, but whatever is easiest to get it up and going is all they are going to do.
 
Soldering station

If you're looking for new soldering supplies, I know a station seems a bit pricey compared to the cheap-o wands you could buy, but they're worth every penny. They heat up faster, have a digital readout and controls to set the heat at any temperature you like. Plus, they're a little safer as the wand goes into a built-in, enclosed holder. The tip alone is worth the cost to me, as it works 1,000% better than the cheap-o ones.

$80 shipped.

http://www.allspectrum.com/store/soldering-station-with-lcd-ceramic-heater-48w-150-450c-p-1000.html
 
Oh, I have everything sourced online. Was just seeing IF I can get it locally. We're going to another fry's to look. If I have to wait a week to get it done, no big deal.

I did find out that when I went to ID the connectors for the GI, that some ASSHAT soldered one wire directly to a pin (on the wrong connector..), then the burnt connectors were put back on backwards. The one connector obviously is so burned it's missing the last pin slot which is why they did it, but damn...

I could swear this machine was probably never on location (no lockbar holes) or in a very light use location....you'd think these guys getting paid 80/hour to go out and service these things for these clueless dorks would take the time to do a proper job given how much money they're making in the process.

*edit* Hey, my game's date of Manufacture is 11/18/93. That's the month the game was released..that mean it's one of the first? :p Another odd thing..the sticker on the back says 230 volts @ 50hz. This game was exported and reimported?

Re-imports happened quite a bit. My Gottlieb Striker still has the french sound roms in it - I find it kind of neat that all the interior labels are in french.
 
I've got the cheaper crimp tool from GPE. Works well, just make sure to buy a lot of pins.. As you'll screw up quite a few :)

Pull off the interconnect pcb and install new headers throughout.. It will need it. Then start with one connector at a time. Good luck!
 
Fry's #2 was a fail also. Had the same stuff.. .156s but only 10-space connectors, 5 space headers, and NO trifurcons. Electronics FAIL! Going to check a local place called Tanner tomorrow morning. Last time I needed diodes I saved literally, about 1000% by going there. I also couldn't find the MOSFETs I need for Stargate at Fry's. Yay!
 
Fry's #2 was a fail also. Had the same stuff.. .156s but only 10-space connectors, 5 space headers, and NO trifurcons. Electronics FAIL! Going to check a local place called Tanner tomorrow morning. Last time I needed diodes I saved literally, about 1000% by going there. I also couldn't find the MOSFETs I need for Stargate at Fry's. Yay!

Tanner IS the DFW metroplex Holy Grail for all things related to electronics parts and tools/supplies.

Other than that, BGMicro in Garland is another excellent resource. We are spoiled here.

Fry's sucks unless you want to pick up solder, heatshrink, flux remover, or solder wick. Their parts are sparse and heavily overpriced.

Chris
 
Tanner IS the DFW metroplex Holy Grail for all things related to electronics parts and tools/supplies.

Other than that, BGMicro in Garland is another excellent resource. We are spoiled here.

Fry's sucks unless you want to pick up solder, heatshrink, flux remover, or solder wick. Their parts are sparse and heavily overpriced.

Chris

Didn't make it out to Carrolton today. Oh well, I felt like shit all day yesterday and today's been no different. Looks like I get to go back to work tomorrow still sick. *awesome*

BG looks interesting...do they have an actual storefront, or just order and will-call to pick up? They have a few different tips for my little shitty Vellerman soldering station, so at least that. And I need solder too.
 
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