repairing separated plywood. any tips?

wildwest3163

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any ideas on how to repair the edges of the plywood cases where the layers have separated? Couple things came to mind immediately,easiest was to trim it off and build back up with wood putty or bondo, but what I was thinking about was to fill in between the layers with wood glue, then lay a 2x6 block along the damaged area and c clamping it down tight enough to flatten it and squeezing out any excess glue. Naturally after it dried youd have to sand/fill any defects, but would it hold? anyone went this route?
 
You need to use a good grade of carpenters glue or gorilla glue. Something that is waterproof in case it gets wet again.

ken
 
I've used two pack epoxy such as boatkote or west system before, but I had it lying around after boat restore.
When you clamp using blocks of wood, wrap them in gladwrap, stops the glue sticking to them.
 
When you clamp using blocks of wood, wrap them in gladwrap, stops the glue sticking to them.

excellent idea, I was wondering what to wrap the boards in. Got about another week to go on the gameroom then Ill have time to start on some of these projects. Plenty of pics, I promise!:D
 
I've used two pack epoxy such as boatkote or west system before, but I had it lying around after boat restore.
When you clamp using blocks of wood, wrap them in gladwrap, stops the glue sticking to them.

excellent idea, I was wondering what to wrap the boards in. Got about another week to go on the gameroom then Ill have time to start on some of these projects. Plenty of pics, I promise!:D

Check your local grocery store. Reynolds makes a release aluminum foil. One side has a release agent bonded to it. So far, when I have used it, nothing sticks to the release side. Not bondo, liquid nails, hot melt glue, elmer's white & carpenters glues or paints. It is also think than normal aluminum foil so it holds shapes better and resists tearing and puncturing better.

ken

Edit: Super glue doesn't stick either.
 
Check your local grocery store. Reynolds makes a release aluminum foil. One side has a release agent bonded to it. So far, when I have used it, nothing sticks to the release side. Not bondo, liquid nails, hot melt glue, elmer's white & carpenters glues or paints. It is also think than normal aluminum foil so it holds shapes better and resists tearing and puncturing better.

ken

Edit: Super glue doesn't stick either.

Haven't heard of this product in Australia but then again I rarely visit the kitchenware section. I'll look next time.
 
I have a corner separating on one of my games and also was wondering what the best way to fix it was. It is at the top and has nothing to do with water and only is a small section. I was thinking the same thing: clamping and using wood glue.

I was thinking of ripping the section off and using bondo but I do not want to repaint the section. So this seemed like a bad option.


Dave
 
I have fixed 2 Nintendo cabs and a Stern cab with the wood glue/clamp method. Works perfectly. Just make sure to get the wood glue as far into the separation as possible. If possible, it's best to put glue in from the top and let gravity draw it into the separation. Gorilla glue expands, so I wouldn't use that. Old fashioned Elmer's Wood Glue works great. Even clamp pressure is key. Lay the game on it's side or back on a work table, bench, saw horses, whatever, and extend the damaged end out into space. That way you have 360 degree access and can use bar clamps and plywood/boards to clamp the cab evenly, without the floor getting in your way.
 
I have fixed 2 Nintendo cabs and a Stern cab with the wood glue/clamp method. Works perfectly. Just make sure to get the wood glue as far into the separation as possible. If possible, it's best to put glue in from the top and let gravity draw it into the separation. Gorilla glue expands, so I wouldn't use that. Old fashioned Elmer's Wood Glue works great. Even clamp pressure is key. Lay the game on it's side or back on a work table, bench, saw horses, whatever, and extend the damaged end out into space. That way you have 360 degree access and can use bar clamps and plywood/boards to clamp the cab evenly, without the floor getting in your way.

Gorilla Wood Glue does not expand so it would be OK to use, on a few repairs I have done a syringe with a larger needle is a good way to shoot glue into hard to reach areas.
 
For example, if the saparation is on the bottom: I tip the game upside down, separate the wood a little with screw drivers/chisles.....then drip in tightbond wood glue. I let it soak in for a bit. Then I paste wax a few strips of wood, then clamp them along the edge of the cabinet I just glued. I take a wet rag and wipe up the excess squeeze out. I let it sit for 24 hours. After it dries, I fill in any voids with BONDO or BONDO HAIR filler. Then I'm able to sand it to a nice, crisp edge again. At this point, I then touch-up the paint or artwork. My wife is a pro on mixing paint to exact color match. Also she is a wiz on touching up artwork.
After the repair, if it's on the bottom, I usually get some new leg levelers and raise the game off the floor a good inch. If it's a non-leg leveler type of cabinet, I get those (moving pucks) and put one on each coner.

That's about it. Good luck.
 
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