Removing Nintendo nut/bolt green goo

edelgiud

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Anybody have experience with best method in removing the green nail polish type hard substance that Nintendo has on their nuts/bolts for items like a Donkey Kong control panel carriage bolts backside or a PP–7B power supply pcb legs to casing, etc.?
If you try unscrewing these without removing that then it is murder and you end up stripping the screw half the time.
Is stripping it with some sort of paint remover good or just chipping away at it with some tiny screwdriver first?

Thanks.
 

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No idea, but I know people sometimes use heat to loosen Loctite.

I might try hitting one of the screws with a hair dryer on high for a couple minutes and see if that helps.
 
I've never had any problems with that green thread lock.

But I would imagine that acetone or goof off (not goo gone) would cut right through it. Just make sure to be careful not to drip it on anything else.

EDIT: It looks like you are trying to open a Nintendo power supply. Godspeed my friend. I did that once. NEVER AGAIN. Nintendo hired a gorilla to tighten those screws.
 
EDIT: It looks like you are trying to open a Nintendo power supply. Godspeed my friend. I did that once. NEVER AGAIN. Nintendo hired a gorilla to tighten those screws.
Yes, I did a cap kit on one PSU pretty much easily by using a tiny dremel point bit on the green thread locker. But with this other one, I already semi-stripped two screws and I'm having trouble loosening the green stuff so I reverted back since the PSU is working in the first place ;-)
 
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They used poor quality screws in general, but it isn't felt more than in the power supply. On top of using a precision phillips, you need to really bear down on that screw while turning. I'm pretty sure I stripped every screw the first time I recapped one of these.
 
Only time I ever had issues was when undoing a punchout knockout button. They coated the bottomside in that. Heat helped going off memory.
 
I have never had problems with it on any Nintendo part BUT, I've never recapped a power supply. I've heard they are tough to get apart. But as for control panels, etc. it normally just breaks and comes right off.
 
OK, thanks for the tips guys. I managed to more easily unscrew them after melting them with acetone (goof off) and so I only managed to stripped one screw when I started this process - but a wisegrip helped me hold on in place to unscrew the rest of it.
Ensure to discharge the filter caps (if you just used the power supply in the last two or three days or it will still have a zapp charge left in it)!
 

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Nice job.

And you probably already know this but there is actually a 5v adjustment pot inside. You might need to adjust that after capping it. You just have to leave the power supply open while you do it.
 
Usually Nintendo engineering is awesome but this is one of their biggest fails IMHO. Not having that +5v adjustment knob accessible is ridiculous.
Nice job.

And you probably already know this but there is actually a 5v adjustment pot inside. You might need to adjust that after capping it. You just have to leave the power supply open while you do it.
 
Yeah, actually I didn't readjust the 5 V on the last one I did and my donkey Kong junior is working fine. I was a bit lazy due to the fact that the cage has to stay open.
I did nudge the 5I adjustment a little bit on this one not sure what that is for (internal PSU functioning)? The reason is there was a bit of epoxy between that and the adjacent cap that I replaced and didn't notice so when I remove the cap, it turned the pot a little.
 
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