removed mylar, what now?

robotype

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mylar was worn and very dirty so I removed it all using hair dryer and glue solvent. now it looks terrific but I am worried it will get worn soon also because centaur has the 5 multiball and I play it quite often. what should I use to prevent wear? is there any specific product?
 
Just wax it and put new balls in there. Never put mylar back on a home machine (except in specials areas like ball drops).

Why not? It's not like it's going to get gummed up at home. I mean, I guess it doesn't get the same amount of play and if you keep it clean and waxed it should be fine, but I don't think mylar is particularly bad when it's clean and new.
 
Why not? It's not like it's going to get gummed up at home. I mean, I guess it doesn't get the same amount of play and if you keep it clean and waxed it should be fine, but I don't think mylar is particularly bad when it's clean and new.

It simply plays better without mylar. And there's no need for mylar protection on a home game that is kept clean and waxed periodically, so why waste money and time putting it on?
 
It simply plays better without mylar. And there's no need for mylar protection on a home game that is kept clean and waxed periodically, so why waste money and time putting it on?

I de-mylared a Funhouse, and had to repaint some areas. I didn't want to completely disassemble the playfield and send it for clearcoat - so I did a fresh mylar to protect the playfield (and paint touchups). New mylar LOOKS like clearcoat! Smooth, shiny, perfect. I don't tihnk it's gonna turn into ratty arcade mylar any time soon.

On the other hand - I de-mylared an Austin Powers, which had a great factory clearcoat underneath already...left it alone, looked great.

As for this Centaur - did you have to repaint anything? If not, you might be OK w/ just keeping it waxed. For me, waxing would have taken off my paint touchups.
 
Why not? It's not like it's going to get gummed up at home. I mean, I guess it doesn't get the same amount of play and if you keep it clean and waxed it should be fine, but I don't think mylar is particularly bad when it's clean and new.

Because it will look like crap in a few years. Crap being a relative term.

Mylar is going to be easier than clear coat, but it's not the best solution over a long term. You have to weigh the pros and cons of all methods and decide what's best for you based on what you want out of the machine. There is no one answer.

Keeping the thing well waxed is probly the easiest thing to do... but your success with that will depend on the condition of the playfield, as mentioned.

Just my $.02
 
How hard is it to clear coat? I'm always worried that I won't do it evenly or that it won't come out right.
 
How hard is it to clear coat? I'm always worried that I won't do it evenly or that it won't come out right.

I don't trust myself to try it....and when I shop out a game, I'm fine w/ taking everything off the top - but, I get a little scared by the idea of taking off the entire bottom w/ all the wires, mechs, etc.

I'm going to be restoring/shopping a Guns 'n Roses soon, and I have to touch up some paint wear from the ball shooting out of the Axl scoop. I might experiment w/ spot clearning that "path" ....but I might just go w/ a mylar strip there......or, hell, might just do a full playfield mylar. We'll see when I get there.
 
If you're going to clear yourself you don't need to remove all of the stuff from the bottom of the playfield. You just need to remove enough stuff to leave only the playfield exposed. If you're sending it out to be cleared you're going to have to remove everything... which is not for the faint of heart.

How hard it is depends on your skill and experience level.
 
If you're going to clear yourself you don't need to remove all of the stuff from the bottom of the playfield. You just need to remove enough stuff to leave only the playfield exposed. If you're sending it out to be cleared you're going to have to remove everything... which is not for the faint of heart.

How hard it is depends on your skill and experience level.

Wouldn't it drip through any holes and possibly get on stuff you don't want it to get on? Also - I would imagine it would be easier to lay flat without all the stuff on the bottom.
 
If you're going to clear yourself you don't need to remove all of the stuff from the bottom of the playfield. You just need to remove enough stuff to leave only the playfield exposed. If you're sending it out to be cleared you're going to have to remove everything... which is not for the faint of heart.

How hard it is depends on your skill and experience level.

On that note, how do you prep the playfield surface prior to spraying the clear? Do you just use automotive clear coat? I am interested in trying this, but I want to understand the process. I've done metal paint jobs on old vending machines etc, but never on an old existing finish like a playfield.
 
On that note, how do you prep the playfield surface prior to spraying the clear? Do you just use automotive clear coat? I am interested in trying this, but I want to understand the process. I've done metal paint jobs on old vending machines etc, but never on an old existing finish like a playfield.

Clearcoating playfields has been discussed and debated ad nauseum on RGP.
 
Wouldn't it drip through any holes and possibly get on stuff you don't want it to get on? Also - I would imagine it would be easier to lay flat without all the stuff on the bottom.

Tape the holes from the back. Keeping paint from going where you don't want it to is a pretty trivial problem to solve. You're going to have to remove quite a bit of stuff but there will be just as much or more stuff you can leave on.

The playfield needs to sit on some kind of stand or blocks either way. You're not going to spray it laying flat on it's back. Having all of the mechanisms on the bottom is a minor inconvenience at best.

Here's a picture of a Nine Ball I cleared recently. This was taken just prior to spraying. You can see there is a bunch of stuff still attached to the playfield and it presented no problem.
 

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Ohhhh, you mean where I just was reading. Hello McFly!! Not to good with the acronyms I am. Thanks and sorry for the hijack.:)
 
As for this Centaur - did you have to repaint anything? If not, you might be OK w/ just keeping it waxed. For me, waxing would have taken off my paint touchups.

no I did not retouch it. it was perfect except the outer zone which was not covered with mylar is yellowed but I can't do much I think. anyway I would prefer not put new mylar and neither clear coat it also because I am very lazy. I would go for wax. which do you recommed? I am not in the usa, I am in Italy so I will have to search for similar products here or have it shipped. btw in the bally manual they say wax will become yellowish after some time, could that be true? maybe they invented better wax in the last 30 years.
 
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