remove, survey and overhaul of Atari Millipede cocktail monitor

[JohnMc123]

remove, survey and overhaul of Atari Millipede cocktail monitor

I removed my monitor Friday after work and took the board out. I never took a picture of the monitor, up and running before I removed it, it had wavy distortion running up and down the left side of the screen for the first 3 inches, or so and then the rest of the screen was fine.

When I got the monitor on the bench, and had a look at the boards it looked more like a crime seen than anything else. I know someone broke the table top glass because, I found some safety glass at the bottom of the cabinet when I removed the monitor and I when I bought the game it had a different glass on it and the bezel was missing.

By looking at some of the picture I've posted, believe that a drink/liquid has gone down the outside of the tube where the fly back is and then it looks like it landed on the main board and has left a black stain? I wanted to post this and get some feed back before I start to clean up the board. I was just going to use some compressed air for starters and then maybe some 70 percent isopropyl alcohol.

I started this with the intention of replacing the capacitors and what ever else I can find to replace. Once I get the game back up and running, was thinking I can start to look for a replacement tube for a later project!

Your thoughts and comments would be greatly appreciated!

Information I found on this monitor:

Monitor: LR 26413
Monitor Brand: Hitachi
CRT Type: 370ESB22
Monitor SER No.: M2G241120
Monitor Production No.: 80-G07910-00
Chassis: G07FB0
Chassis Serial No.: 9-055437
Chassis MFD/FAB: AUGUST 06 1982
Volts: 120
Amps/Watts: 0.90
Hertz: 50/60

John

 

[tron guy]

G07 fbo

If I had that monitor I would recap it, replace R908, and fr401. Then reflow solder throughout the main chassis and neckboard.

Then test it again, make adjustments (if it's working), and go from there.

Cleaning it up is optional. I would do it.
Security0001 is a member here and his website is in my signature. He will have all the parts you need, if you don't already have them.

 

[joeycuda]

Some claim if you do a cap kit on the G07, which IS needed, it stresses the flyback and it will likely fail. I've had it happen a couple of times myself. I'd probably go ahead and do full cap kit, incl big filter cap, fly back, that fusible resistor with cruddy legs, reflow connector pins, look for cracked solder joints. So easy to work in compared to other chassis.

Security0001 for parts, for sure!

 

[tron guy]

Some claim if you do a cap kit on the G07, which IS needed, it stresses the flyback and it will likely fail. I've had it happen a couple of times myself. I'd probably go ahead and do full cap kit, incl big filter cap, fly back, that fusible resistor with cruddy legs, reflow connector pins, look for cracked solder joints. So easy to work in compared to other chassis.

Security0001 for parts, for sure!

With a 19" cbo, for sure. There is not a 13" fbo flyback replacement. The cbo fly, causes width issues at a minimum.

Unless the flyback blows, keep it original in an fbo.

 

[JohnMc123]

WOW – thanks for the awesome feedback.

WOW – thanks for the awesome feedback. I'll make a list and get an order in to Security0001. I may order the flyback and some polypropylene (PP) capacitors to try and adjust the width at C515 (I've found some information that I've added below) let me know what you think!

To address the width issue, I did see, "TNT Amusements Inc" on YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sr2FC9poGZc&t=35s) starts talking at 1:59 minutes in to the video, about doing a cap kit on the G07 FBO and then he starts to get into the situation of not being able to get a flyback replacement for the G07 FBO so, they used a G07 CBO instead.

1 horizontal width:
>Just like Tron Guy said they had width issues and they also talk about having vertical issues; however, they fixed the width by the changing the, "chiclets"! I can only assume he's talking about the polypropylene capacitors. With that I started to read on the Chiclet modification, A.K.A., the polypropylene (PP) capacitors. Bob Roberts has a beautiful article, "Horizontal Width" located at http://www.therealbobroberts.net/width.html and say to change out the PP located at C515 on the board. I think TNT Amusements on YouTube, was talking about the bank of PPs next to C515 though; however, if I had to chose I'd go with Bob's recommendation to change the value of C515.

2 vertical height:
>The YouTube video also mentions taking out the center piece of the height coil. Here's where I got total lost. Does anyone know what he's talking about?

You can check the video out (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sr2FC9poGZc&t=35s) and I've added the transcript from the video below:


what's unique when you change the
02:25
flyback they only make a fly back for a
02:27
19 inch monitor when you put a 19 inch
02:30
fly back into a 13-inch electrohome
02:33
picture is smaller this smaller it's
02:37
just the way it is so if you want to
02:39
fill the screen Frank discovered all you
02:41
have to do is add a couple of those blue
02:45
Chiclets that are not in the 13 inch
02:47
they control the size of the picture and
02:50
when Frank put some of those extra
02:52
babies in picture widen out just right
02:56
now that's in one direction the other
02:59
the other thing you have to do is you
03:00
have to take out the Stoke the stalk or
03:05
the centerpiece of the height coil
03:08
height point you have to take that
03:11
completely out and then your picture
03:13
nice and high and backwards what
03:18
backwards hey that would be fun when not
03:22
Google oily anyway god don't break that


As a point of interest I also found another good article here: http://www.pinrepair.com/g07/

One last thing is after looking at some of the other G07 FBO on the internet, I can rule out my spilt drink theory. I think the boards are dirty!



John

 

[security0001]

https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/monitors/monitor-cap-kits/monitor-width-cap-kit/

here is the width cap kit with many more values than BR kit had so you can fine tune things better. let me know if you have any trouble finding anything.

 

[JohnMc123]

Security0001, thanks for the heads-up. I'll gather my information and place an order this week.

John

 

[JohnMc123]

I just placed my order for new parts with Security0001

I just ordered my new parts from Security0001

>Electrohome GO7-FBO Monitor Cap Kit 105C Nichicon----------------------------------------× 1
>A-29951B Electrohome GO7 Flyback-----------------------------------------------------------× 1
>Monitor Width Cap Kit---------------------------------------------------------------------------× 1
>47K OHM 1/2 WATT RESISTOR (5 PIECES) (R1002), A.K.A.,R908---------------------------× 1
>68 OHM 2 WATT WIREWOUND FUSIBLE RESISTOR (3 pieces) (R1008), A.K.A.,FR401-----× 1
>680uF 250V Nichicon 105c B+ Filter Capacitor, A.K.A.,BIG FILTER CAPACITOR,C904------× 1
>HOT high output transistor 2SD871------------------------------------------------------------x 1

Thanks for everyone's help!

 

[UnwoundS3GA]

Some claim if you do a cap kit on the G07, which IS needed, it stresses the flyback and it will likely fail. I've had it happen a couple of times myself. I'd probably go ahead and do full cap kit, incl big filter cap, fly back, that fusible resistor with cruddy legs, reflow connector pins, look for cracked solder joints. So easy to work in compared to other chassis.

Security0001 for parts, for sure!

Agreed. I recapped my Dig Dug G07, and the flyback cracked soon after. (I probably hadn't had it on for more than 5 hours in total before it cracked).

 

[JohnMc123]

wow - that's fast!

UnwoundS3GA, wow - that's fast! Good to know.

John

 

[JohnMc123]

My new parts just arrived from Security0001 (https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com).

My new parts just arrived from Security0001 (https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com). I can hardly wait for the weekend!

>Electrohome GO7-FBO Monitor Cap Kit 105C Nichicon----------------------------------------× 1
>A-29951B Electrohome GO7 Flyback-----------------------------------------------------------× 1
>Monitor Width Cap Kit---------------------------------------------------------------------------× 1
>47K OHM 1/2 WATT RESISTOR (5 PIECES) (R1002), A.K.A.,R908---------------------------× 1
>68 OHM 2 WATT WIREWOUND FUSIBLE RESISTOR (3 pieces) (R1008), A.K.A.,FR401-----× 1
>680uF 250V Nichicon 105c B+ Filter Capacitor, A.K.A.,BIG FILTER CAPACITOR,C904------× 1
>HOT, 2SD871-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------x 1

JohnMc123

 

[JohnMc123]

What's the best way to install the big filter capacitor with different leads?

just a short update..

I've been reorganizing my work bench. I've built a shelf at the back of my bench, in order to get some of my equipment off the bench; hooked up a fan with some venting to carry the fumes from soldering out side of my garage and getting ready to start working on installing the cap. kit.

I have one question though. I'm looking at the new, "680uF 250V Nichicon 105c B+ Filter Capacitor, A.K.A.,BIG FILTER CAPACITOR,C904" and it has different leads than the original capacitor, it has the snap in type. What's the best way to install this one?

JohnMc123

 

[tron guy]

just a short update..

I've been reorganizing my work bench. I've built a shelf at the back of my bench, in order to get some of my equipment off the bench; hooked up a fan with some venting to carry the fumes from soldering out side of my garage and getting ready to start working on installing the cap. kit.

I have one question though. I'm looking at the new, "680uF 250V Nichicon 105c B+ Filter Capacitor, A.K.A.,BIG FILTER CAPACITOR,C904" and it has different leads than the original capacitor, it has the snap in type. What's the best way to install this one. I can solder some wire to the existing terminals; however, the capacitor will be flopping around. There's not a big footprint on the board so, I don't think laying this down is not an option. What do others do in this case?

JohnMc123

Remove the solder from the 2 holes in the center area where the cap sits and click it into there and solder it in. There is a write-up on Bob Roberts site, I'll see if I can find it.

 

[PassivePac-Man]

With a 19" cbo, for sure. There is not a 13" fbo flyback replacement. The cbo fly, causes width issues at a minimum.

Unless the flyback blows, keep it original in an fbo.

Pshh, you got that right. I'm living with a small picture on my FBO because the flyback blew. Stupid yoke moved too so it's also crooked

 

[tron guy]

Pshh, you got that right. I'm living with a small picture on my FBO because the flyback blew. Stupid yoke moved too so it's also crooked

You can fix that (possibly), with a width cap kit.

 

[JohnMc123]

I think I found something: http://www.therealbobroberts.net/bplus0.html

I'll give it a try this weekend!

Thank you!

JohnMc123

 

[security0001]

I think I found something: http://www.therealbobroberts.net/bplus0.html

I'll give it a try this weekend!

Thank you!

JohnMc123

John
Check out our YouTube channel and I have a video on replacing the filter cap.

 

[JohnMc123]

Clean and prep

First of all, thanks for everyone's help/advise. Security0001 that's an excellent video which addressed my concerns with installing, "680uF 250V Nichicon 105c B+ Filter Capacitor, A.K.A.,BIG FILTER CAPACITOR,C904" (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqSAe6CYeDw). I've attached a during and after picture of the boards.

I really like the results when using the Simple Green product. I'm going to have to go and buy some more Simple Green because, I used quite a bit of the wife's bottle under the sink. Spraying the boards with Simple Green is a little addictive, I just wanted to keep spraying that stuff all over the boards – it was awesome!! I set the garden hose to a very low rate of flow and thoroughly rinsed the boards. After that I blew a lot of the water off with the air compressor. I think I got quite a lot of water off; however, there's still possibly a little bit of water in the width coil and some other places.

I'm going to store the boards in the mechanical room next to the furnace for a few days when I'm not working on it, in order to ensure that I get rid of all moisture.

The tube didn't look that bad so, I thought I'd stay away from the aquadag coating (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aquadag) and just clean the boards, after all this was suppose to be a simple capacitor kit job.

I'd like to mention some of the excellent YouTube videos that I've come across over the last little while which I've found very informative and are relate to my task at hand:

• The Canadian Arcade, "Let's Wash an Arcade Monitor!"
o https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=whOWMxp3cqc

• Tighe Lory, "Donkey Kong Complete Restoration Cabinet, Art, and Monitor"
o https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=12&v=e91NybttYBg

• Arcade Parts and Repair, "arcade monitor B+ filter cap replacement on electrohome G07"
o https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqSAe6CYeDw

• OneCircuit, "Arcade Game Repair 101 - Basic Monitor Setup"
o https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gmrrf5hiYQI

JohnMc123

 

[security0001]

Great job John!!!

 

[JohnMc123]

when re-flowing header pins..

when I go to re-flow the header pins as in https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ijwL3kkw1A can I get away with using the original female header connection to keep the male header pins in place because, I don't have any spare female header/yoke connections to use, at the moment.

JohnMc123