Recapping a K7000 monitor tomorrow (wash the tube?)

Tighe

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Recapping a K7000 monitor tomorrow (wash the tube?)

My plan is to discharge the throwback a couple times, remove it from the cabinet, remove the driver board, clean the board with compressed air, replace the caps, reassemble the monitor, plug it into a board to then do a convergence.

Is there anything else I should do while I have the monitor out? I read once that people wash the tube with a garden hose???? How do you keep water out of the hole where the flyback connects? Is this really a good idea? do you have to remove the yoke first?

Does someone have a checklist that they follow when they shop a monitor?
 
My plan is to discharge the flyback a couple times where the big red wire meets the tube, leave it in the cabinet, remove the monitor chassis carefully, clean the board with compressed air, remove and install new caps, reflow any cold solder joints i find especially on the header pins, (maybe install a new flyback if it looks original)reinstall the monitor chassis by plugging back in all the connectors i unplugged during removal especially the ground wire from the neckboard to the tube, and then do a convergence only, only, only if its needed.

just wash the front of the tube with an anti-static cleaner and be sure not to wash off the black aquadag on the back of the tube because thats there for reason.

Does someone have a checklist that they follow when they shop a monitor?

i hook up my rejuvenator to check the tube for shorts, clean the guns, etc if it seems the tube has a problem.

*fixed*

good luck and dont mess with something unless you have to.

:)
 
Take a damp rag and just wipe the dirt off the back of the tube. Use a clean paint brush to dust off the dirt and dust from the yoke...
 
Take a damp rag and just wipe the dirt off the back of the tube. Use a clean paint brush to dust off the dirt and dust from the yoke...

Thanks that makes the most sense to me. I just remember how adamant some of the members were about how washing the tube was SO much better.
 
Yes sir ....

Been hot here the last day or so, just set er' out in the sun for a day. ;)
 

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Yes sir ....

Been hot here the last day or so, just set er' out in the sun for a day. ;)

So what is the advantage to washing the whole thing? Wouldn't compressed air do the same thing?

EDIT: BTW those screen shots look sharp! Look as good as my new Vision Pro I have in my Galaga.
 
A properly rebuilt chassis with a no-burn tube can look just as good as the new monitors, and last 10x longer. Some of us do tube swaps on them from used TV's to get that brand-new look again, too...
 
i use compressed air and a rag. THATS IT. Be careful not to rub the "grey stuff" on the back of the tube too hard. Its called aqua-dag or some krap and the tube wont be happy without it. Glass cleaner does a fine job of cleaning the face of the tube.

I tried the whole wash your chassis in the dishwasher trick and it was clean, but acted really weired for about a week even though it was allowed to dry for over 2 days. i wont be doing that again..
 
I've heard many people wash boards and chassis in the dishwasher, so I tried it - once. A K4900 that was absolutely filthy. Ran it in the dishwasher with no soap or HOT AIR dry. It came out with a lot of white residue (yes we have a water softener). I used a toothbrush to clean a lot of it off. Let it dry for two weeks to be safe, then plugged it in only to get a high-pitched whine from the flyback (everything worked before the washing). I swapped out the flyback and it was fine again.

I may try again with a few really dirty boards I have, but I will pull all socketed chips prior, and probably wash it by hand with some cleaner and a toothbrush.

I remember a long time ago seeing a post on a different forum about some stuff you could spray on, let it sit for about 10 minutes, then rinse off and the board looked new again. They had some great pics showing the dramatic results, but repeated searching has not found the same post again....
 
i use compressed air and a rag. THATS IT. Be careful not to rub the "grey stuff" on the back of the tube too hard. Its called aqua-dag or some krap and the tube wont be happy without it. Glass cleaner does a fine job of cleaning the face of the tube.

I tried the whole wash your chassis in the dishwasher trick and it was clean, but acted really weired for about a week even though it was allowed to dry for over 2 days. i wont be doing that again..

I've heard many people wash boards and chassis in the dishwasher, so I tried it - once. A K4900 that was absolutely filthy. Ran it in the dishwasher with no soap or HOT AIR dry. It came out with a lot of white residue (yes we have a water softener). I used a toothbrush to clean a lot of it off. Let it dry for two weeks to be safe, then plugged it in only to get a high-pitched whine from the flyback (everything worked before the washing). I swapped out the flyback and it was fine again.

I may try again with a few really dirty boards I have, but I will pull all socketed chips prior, and probably wash it by hand with some cleaner and a toothbrush.

I remember a long time ago seeing a post on a different forum about some stuff you could spray on, let it sit for about 10 minutes, then rinse off and the board looked new again. They had some great pics showing the dramatic results, but repeated searching has not found the same post again....


Thanks guys! I would think that after you washed the board and got it dry it might make sense to spay the board with silicone. It would insulate the components and help keep it clean. Of course it also might just make everything sticky too.
 
I wash my monitors before doing a cap kit/flyback if I can live without them for a couple extra days. I just set em' in the driveway and spray a light coat of Simple Green on them, let em' sit for a few minutes, then wash them off with low pressure water. Then I speed up the drying by blowing off what water I can with compressed air. They look really clean afterwards and I haven't had any issues caused by it yet.
 
crackling sound

Ok so I took the monitor out and blew it out with compressed air. There was a bug stuck under the leads of a capasitor.

While cleaning I pulled the neck board and found that the plastic on the neck connection is cracked on the center bump. Does this mean the vaccum seal is broke?

I put it back in and powered it on and it now makes a crackling sound and is out of focus (I didn't adjust). Also the neck is glowing. Is glow good or bad?
 
Ok so I took the monitor out and blew it out with compressed air. There was a bug stuck under the leads of a capasitor.

While cleaning I pulled the neck board and found that the plastic on the neck connection is cracked on the center bump. Does this mean the vaccum seal is broke?

I put it back in and powered it on and it now makes a crackling sound and is out of focus (I didn't adjust). Also the neck is glowing. Is glow good or bad?

If the neck glows orange, that's usually okay. if you see blue lightning inside, then you have a break...
 
If the neck glows orange, that's usually okay. if you see blue lightning inside, then you have a break...

Thanks! I figured it out, the flyback popped off. I didn't have it on right. :eek:

The good news is that blowing out the monitor got rid of the waterfall shadow on the left side of the screen.

Now to take it out again and start installing the caps! :D
 
I've heard many people wash boards and chassis in the dishwasher, so I tried it - once. A K4900 that was absolutely filthy. Ran it in the dishwasher with no soap or HOT AIR dry. It came out with a lot of white residue (yes we have a water softener).

I've had pcb's do that in the dishwasher before as well. (but no tall) Seems more heat related than anything. Even when drying with the "air dry" cycle, the water that cleans them is extremely hot. Washed similar boards with cold/warm water by hand and didn't have that problem.
 
I wash really filthy chassis, but pop them in the oven at the lowest setting for a couple hours to make sure they're good and dry.
 
I've had pcb's do that in the dishwasher before as well. (but no tall) Seems more heat related than anything. Even when drying with the "air dry" cycle, the water that cleans them is extremely hot. Washed similar boards with cold/warm water by hand and didn't have that problem.

+1

using hot water to rinse then brushing them have better result, than using cold water + cheap soap. i often washed sega simulator's pcb, and got no problem at all after. it even sometimes, curing the problem it had before i washed it ;)
 
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