Rebuilt 25k7000 has poor focus

[78whiteorbs]

I have other tubes I could try but while the focus works it doesn't get nearly as sharp as other rebuilt chassis I have bought in the past.

She be able to adjust a a rebuilt chassis to a crisp image right? I was considering trying a different tube but what would you do?

Bought rebuilt from a member here recently.

 

[john2654]

Did the rebuild include a new flyback? I've had new flybacks fail and also produce poor focus. Another new flyback fixed the focus problem.

 

[78whiteorbs]

Did the rebuild include a new flyback? I've had new flybacks fail and also produce poor focus. Another new flyback fixed the focus problem.

Don't think so

 

[john2654]

I've had a few Nanao monitors that would lose focus and just needed a new flyback.

 

[Mattspad]

I have other tubes I could try but while the focus works it doesn't get nearly as sharp as other rebuilt chassis I have bought in the past.

She be able to adjust a a rebuilt chassis to a crisp image right? I was considering trying a different tube but what would you do?

Bought rebuilt from a member here recently.

Don't think so

If the fly back is original then you definitely need to replace it. If it's been replaced and it's still dim do you have another known good k7000 chassis to try on this tube? K7000's should always have a new flyback the originals were made of popsicle sticks and paper mache practically

 

[DuffCon]

If the fly back is original then you definitely need to replace it. If it's been replaced and it's still dim do you have another known good k7000 chassis to try on this tube? K7000's should always have a new flyback the originals were made of popsicle sticks and paper mache practically

While OPs issue is probably flyback, Focus can be a tube issue as well. I disagree with the idea of replacing originals without need; this has been discussed a lot around here.

 

[Mattspad]

While OPs issue is probably flyback, Focus can be a tube issue as well. I disagree with the idea of replacing originals without need; this has been discussed a lot around here.

To each their own but on k7000's and sharp xm's I really think they are required to be replaced. Whatever polymer they used on the case of the fly back is extremely prone to cracking with age and when it cracks it arcs.

 

[78whiteorbs]

While OPs issue is probably flyback, Focus can be a tube issue as well. I disagree with the idea of replacing originals without need; this has been discussed a lot around here.

I'll try another tube first that's easy

 

[chilibear13]

A weak tube could cause focus issues meaning that the image wouldn't be as sharp as a strong tube.

I agree with Duffcon. If a flyback is working, even with cracks, I wouldn't change it "just because the chassis is already out." There's no guarantee that the new flyback is better than the used one in the long run. I've installed brand new flybacks that started arcing on the first power up. Good luck trying to get a replacement from the vendor.

 

[Mattspad]

A weak tube could cause focus issues meaning that the image wouldn't be as sharp as a strong tube.

I agree with Duffcon. If a flyback is working, even with cracks, I wouldn't change it "just because the chassis is already out." There's no guarantee that the new flyback is better than the used one in the long run. I've installed brand new flybacks that started arcing on the first power up. Good luck trying to get a replacement from the vendor.

If you buy from Peter (security001) he will take care of you, he is the best and stands by his product. If it's cracked you definitely need to change it. Never had an issue with a Flyback from Peter ever myself and I've had some for 5+ years. If you're getting shit flybacks with no support it's because you're sourcing it from bad sellers.

78whiteorbs you're on the right track, using a different tube will narrow down if the tube or Flyback is the issue.

 

[chilibear13]

If you buy from Peter (security001) he will take care of you, he is the best and stands by his product. If it's cracked you definitely need to change it. Never had an issue with a Flyback from Peter ever myself and I've had some for 5+ years. If you're getting shit flybacks with no support it's because you're sourcing it from bad sellers.

78whiteorbs you're on the right track, using a different tube will narrow down if the tube or Flyback is the issue.

I'm happy you and many others have had such a great and absolutely wonderful experience. Although I still buy, I can't say I've had the same good feeling experience in the past. We'll just leave it at that and we're getting off the subject. My apologies to the Op.

Op: Yes, try switching tubes first since it's easy. After that, try a new flyback . Do you have a known good flyback from another chassis you can switch out and try?

 

[mecha]

If you buy from Peter (security001) he will take care of you, he is the best and stands by his product. If it's cracked you definitely need to change it. Never had an issue with a Flyback from Peter ever myself and I've had some for 5+ years. If you're getting shit flybacks with no support it's because you're sourcing it from bad sellers.

78whiteorbs you're on the right track, using a different tube will narrow down if the tube or Flyback is the issue.

it happens. he's not the one making them. he at least will replace the defective parts. once upon a time the community's former savior would tell you to pound sand. @security0001 is an invaluable asset to all of us.

there are a lot of OEM K7000 flybacks still in circulation with cracks that have no visible issues. when they start going Emperor Palpatine then it becomes a problem.

@78whiteorbs if the adjustment knobs on the flyback pull in and out and are very notchy and not smooth, it's the flyback. also failing flybacks will have limited range for the focus adjustment where you'll never get it right. one of the several arts I've never attempted to learn, let alone master, is ring testing flybacks. mainly because I don't have a ring tester and I just work for companies that buy new parts because the object of what I do is make games work again.

 

[bakerhillpins]

I'll second what @mecha says regarding @security0001...

I'd like to add that one should also perform the factory color adjustments to the monitor after a rebuild. I've been doing a lot of work looking at flybacks of all sorts lately and this will make a difference. Improperly adjusted monitors tend to end up with a variety of odd looking image outcomes. I've been dropping back to old OEM flybacks in rebuilt chassis so I can compare to reproductions. I recently went down this path with a 19K7000.

Specifically here: make sure the brightness isn't turned up too much as this will wash out/smear the image as well making you believe a crisp focus can't be achieved. If you'd like to test this simply turn down the screen adjustment on the flyback so it's not as bright (even less than you'd like) and see if you can get a sharp focus there. Then bring the screen back up.

Color balance according to factory specs which in many cases requires a scope. If you still can't get the brightness you desire with the screen knob then the tube may be weak and need a rejuv which would reset all your previous factory adjustments up to this point.

 

[ArcadeTechGW]

Did you try adjusting the FOCUS knob?

I had a NFL Blitz/NBA Jam cabinet where the image was fuzzy. First, we removed the marque and cleaned the fuzz covered screen and marque, but that wasn't it. A few tweaks of the FOCUS knob on the flyback and it was crisp again.

 

[JukeboxJon]

While OPs issue is probably flyback, Focus can be a tube issue as well. I disagree with the idea of replacing originals without need; this has been discussed a lot around here.

To each their own but on k7000's and sharp xm's I really think they are required to be replaced. Whatever polymer they used on the case of the fly back is extremely prone to cracking with age and when it cracks it arcs.

Well, so im usually on Duffs side of this argument, however while working on nimrods k7000, his has a new APAR flyback and man the focus is super sharp, both the k7000s I just rebuilt do not have white knob fbs but they are older idk if all k7000s fbs had white knob OEM flybacks originally or not, but I thought it was the tube, and now im thinking im going to buy a couple new flybacks just to see because it is not the tube and thats the only thing I can allocate to why his chassis looks so much clearer than mine. So might be changing my opinion, at least for k7000s, 7400 series chassis ive always heard the OEM flybacks were bulletproof.

 

[DuffCon]

For 7000s @zenomorp has commented on this and I agree: If you have to be on the maxed out side of the focus pot to get the screen in focus then it's probably on the way out. I have a couple of FBs on my parts shelf that were like this and replaced. I keep them as emergency spares.

 

[JukeboxJon]

For 7000s @zenomorp has commented on this and I agree: If you have to be on the maxed out side of the focus pot to get the screen in focus then it's probably on the way out. I have a couple of FBs on my parts shelf that were like this and replaced. I keep them as emergency spares.

Yeah after I finish his going to test a few of mine again, and I mean I am a perfectionist at adjusting chassis and great at it and recheck the focus pots, i mean if you are maxed it always going to be blurry I think what you are saying if the happy point is say 75 percent of the flybacks max turning point instead of like the pot being halfway up thats the happy point.