Rebuilding - building up a K6100

PrairieDillo

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So say you have a working but bone stock K6100 color vector.

You want to rebuild it and build it up to last.

Bob Roberts has a bunch of different kits.

K6100 19" color X-Y $15.00
K6100 Additional parts - NO Q604/704 $14.00
K6100 Repair Package - Cap Kit + Additional Parts Kit + Q604/704 $35.00
K6100 Repair Package Deluxe - Cap Kit + Additional Parts Kit + Q603/604/703/704

Does anyone know the merits of each of these kits? Which kit would you get to do a full rebuild if you wanted to upgrade the 6100 with a LV2000.

Would you argue getting?
1) LV2000
2) LV2000 light
3) LV6100 does mark even take orders now?

Thanks for any help. I'm trying to get into vectors...
 
I don't know the answers to your questions but I recently rebuilt a 6100, my first full rebuild ever for a monitor. I went with the Deluxe kit from Bob and a new Flyback. I never got an answer on the LV2000 question until I was done so I didn't go with it. I can add it in later if needed. It is quite a job, a lot of stuff to replace but it wasn't too bad. I actually skipped out on doing the frame transistors for the time being as I hate those things. I will probably end up doing them soon though.
 
So say you have a working but bone stock K6100 color vector.

You want to rebuild it and build it up to last.

Bob Roberts has a bunch of different kits.

K6100 19" color X-Y $15.00
K6100 Additional parts - NO Q604/704 $14.00
K6100 Repair Package - Cap Kit + Additional Parts Kit + Q604/704 $35.00
K6100 Repair Package Deluxe - Cap Kit + Additional Parts Kit + Q603/604/703/704

Does anyone know the merits of each of these kits? Which kit would you get to do a full rebuild if you wanted to upgrade the 6100 with a LV2000.

Would you argue getting?
1) LV2000
2) LV2000 light
3) LV6100 does mark even take orders now?

Thanks for any help. I'm trying to get into vectors...

Honestly, if it's working, I wouldn't do anything. It's not like you will be running it 24/7, so the reliability isn't as critical.

However, if you wanted to bulletproof it, I would recommend:

- Changing out the electrolytic caps with 105° Panasonic or Nichicon caps. These are the best caps there are. You will probably have to order them individually. Bob Roberts kits do not use these caps.
- Installing a LV2000. I have no opinion on full vs. light. Far as I know LV6100 was the old name for the LV2000.
- Carefully inspecting major solder joints and reflowing anything that looks suspect. The header pins and frame transistor mounts often have bad connections.

But really, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. My experience is that these monitors rarely fail catastrophically.
 
Honestly, if it's working, I wouldn't do anything. It's not like you will be running it 24/7, so the reliability isn't as critical.

However, if you wanted to bulletproof it, I would recommend:

- Changing out the electrolytic caps with 105° Panasonic or Nichicon caps. These are the best caps there are. You will probably have to order them individually. Bob Roberts kits do not use these caps.
- Installing a LV2000. I have no opinion on full vs. light. Far as I know LV6100 was the old name for the LV2000.
- Carefully inspecting major solder joints and reflowing anything that looks suspect. The header pins and frame transistor mounts often have bad connections.

But really, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. My experience is that these monitors rarely fail catastrophically.


LV6100 is actually the unit Mark Spaeth designed. The lv2000 is someone else's doing, emulating his unit.
 
The BR deluxe kit contains a whole slew of "upgraded" components that have been recommended over the years by various sources to help bulletproof the thing. He says right in his own documentation that he can't really speak to whether these upgrades are really that helpful or not. But clearly some of the components are much more robust than the originals stuff. It's fairly expensive when you get all the extra parts from him but it's also a relatively complete rebuild and seems to catch most of the stuff that goes wrong.

I always buy the "light" version of the LV2000. As far as I can tell, the only real difference is that the "heavy" version allows you to adjust the output voltage whereas the light version is all pre-set. I prefer it to be pre-set myself plus it's cheaper. I've never used the Spaeth version since he refuses to do business with me and half the rest of the planet.
 
I've never used the Spaeth version since he refuses to do business with me and half the rest of the planet.

My first thought was maybe you tried to jehuie him down to $50 on an lv6100, but then it occurred to me... that would just about be the price for 2 of them so I figured that wasn't what happened.
 
Bobs kits have some upgraded resistors, and replacement transistors & diodes. I think most of the parts are direct replacements (except the white ceramics) for components that have run hot their entire life. If you install this and you have a TO-220 installed in your low voltage power supply, leave it alone. The replacement in the kit is a TO-92, and runs very hot.

The LV 2000/6100 is a good idea for those that want a long term fix. Not that a normal repair wont last, but its over built so its more likely to survive any out of spec current draws. It also has some degree of self protection (I think). I have a mix. So far neither have failed.
 
My first thought was maybe you tried to jehuie him down to $50 on an lv6100, but then it occurred to me... that would just about be the price for 2 of them so I figured that wasn't what happened.

No, I actually never had any direct dealings with him. But he said he would never deal with me because he couldn't forgive me for the Sundance incident. Go figure. On a related note, I don't believe any of these rebuild items listed above use NTE components. :)
 
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