Re-Connecting Flyback Suction Cup after a cap kit

ArcadeTom

New member
Joined
Mar 29, 2012
Messages
20
Reaction score
1
Location
San Marcos, California
Hi,
I did my first cap kit today on a WG 4900 monitor. I watched many videos and read allot of posts on discharging the flyback behind the suction cup before doing anything.

That seemed to go fine, then I removed the suction cup from the crt and as a precaution grounded the pin behind the cup again. All was good.

New caps are in, when I tried to get the suction cup back into the monitor hole I got a little jolt :). Didn't realize there was still power inside the back of the tube.

Now I don't want to touch it until I find out whats going on. Im so close to testing out the new board with new caps but cant seem to get past this.

Can someone guide me at this stage.

Thanks, much appreciated.

-tom
 
tubes will normally have a little residual charge that builds back up. Its good practice to discharge the anode hole before reconnecting the flyback... It should be fine to hook it up now, but to be safe try to ground the anode hole with however you discharged it before trying to reconnect the fly.

For what its worth, when you discharge you are discharging the tube, which acts as a giant capactor...
 
thanks. I will try. I have a screw driver with a wire wrapped around the end and grounded.

That was my other question, is there a special way to get that flyback into the anode hole ?

thanks
-tom
 
You won't forget to do that again. That's how I learned. I got a small bite from the hole after doing my first cap kit. Now I always discharge the hole after removal and before installation of the anode cup.
 
I discharge the anode hole twice upon removal, and twice again upon insertion. It's just habit now.

I too have felt the sting....
 
One hook at a time, pull it over and hook the 2nd one in, done

Bumping...


I am putting my suction cup back on. I have it hooked, but it seems "UNsuctioned" compared to the other cabs I have. The 2 wire hooks hooks into the hole, but what about the middle clinder shaped go? It seems I am missing something.
 
I bend back the rubber on both sides of the annode wire and hold it like that with 2 fingers.

Position a light to light the area, then hook one leg of the wire on the far side of the annode hole. You can then use a flat head screwdriver to help guide/push the 2nd wire. push towards that 1st wire and push down to at the same time and release pressure. When you get good at it, you won't need the screw driver.

once its in place, you can check by lifting up the rubber to make sure the wires are connected properly. If it was not, lifting the rubber will tend to make it fall out..

If you replaced the flyback, they don't usually come with the metal washer that connects the 2 annode wires. That washer makes it fit tighter.
 
Bumping...


I am putting my suction cup back on. I have it hooked, but it seems "UNsuctioned" compared to the other cabs I have. The 2 wire hooks hooks into the hole, but what about the middle clinder shaped go? It seems I am missing something.

Some caps have a metal disc that rests loosely on top of the anode hole to help prevent arcing, is that what you're seeing? Maybe you should post a picture.
 
Bumping...


I am putting my suction cup back on. I have it hooked, but it seems "UNsuctioned" compared to the other cabs I have. The 2 wire hooks hooks into the hole, but what about the middle clinder shaped go? It seems I am missing something.

The suction cup is often not glued to the anode wire. Just slide it down the wire towards the tube until it's snug.
 
Back
Top Bottom