Rauland Zenith monitor - weak blue color in Joust

westal_sage

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I just picked up a Joust. The monitor in it looks to be a TV picture tube. It is:
Rauland (Zenith) 19VMCP22

It looks decent, but the problem is the blue color. Red and green are nice and bright, but I just can't get blue to come through very well.

There are cutoff pots for each of RGB. But there are drive pots for only R & G. There are also pots for black level and screen brightness. No matter how I adjust them, blue just won't shine through very well.

First I verified it's not the tube by grounding the neckboard socket pin for blue - it correctly washes the screen out in nice bright blue.

I have a spare monitor with lots of screen burn sitting around, so I hooked it up to the game and blue looks great on it.

I replaced the blue CDT on the neckboard.

Any thoughts on what else could be the culprit?

Would a cap kit maybe do the trick? Problem is, I can't find a ready-made kit for this weird monitor. Is it unheard of to just manually ID all the caps and, well you know, assemble your own cap kit? Any caveats there?

Thanks!!

- Wes
 
Hey Cbus - I will check and see if the chassis is labeled with something differently than Rauland. That brings up a question I've always had about tubes n chassis'....

Is it that tubes and chassis' are somewhat interchangeable? Like will some combos work together and some will not? I know this is a pretty vague question, but could someone shed some light on that for me? Clearly I'm not very knowledgeable in this area. -Wes
 
What on earth is a CDT?

Could possibly be bad blue transistor or bad resistor on neckboard.

I'm assuming "color drive transistor". never seen it in acronym form like that however heh.

black level I'm guessing is your brightness, that screen brightness being the flyback screen control?

you might be kinda screwed here if there's no contrast function, I'm guessing it's all in the color adjustments. it's commonplace for there to be Red and Green drive controls only, but there should be the 3 cut-offs for each color somewhere on there. weird..
 
I was able to determine (i.e. read the label) that the chassis is a WG K4901. I ordered a cap kit and I bet that will help alot.

I found out that the blue will eventually warm up to a pretty good level. But it takes a loooong time. I mean like 2 hours. So again, I'm hoping new caps will solve this.

Sorry about the "CDT" acronym for color driver transistor. It's just that I saw that *everywhere* out here - like in every single post I read on missing colors from monitors.

I'll report back how the cap kit changes things.
 
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