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The schematics call it out as a "10 MF AX TANT" capacitor - so does this mean 10 millifarads? Or 10 microfarads?
Microfarads.
Also, I somehow doubt that really, absolutely needs to be a tantalum. You should be able to just solder a normal electrolytic in there.
-Ian
Here's to hoping I haven't fried the PIA chip on the board when the cap went up in smoke....
"In fact they don't tolerate voltage peeks and may explode if their ratings are exceeded. On the other hand, they are more precise, stable and suitable for higher frequencies. I've recently used tantalum capacitors after LDO regulators because of their low ESR."
Any idea how I can determine the voltage rating? I don't see it referenced anywhere on the schematics parts list.
Interesting excerpt I pulled from another forum discussing tantalum versus electrolytic caps.....
I may just swap out ALL the tantalum caps on this board to 'lytics.
-Something- caused that tantalum to go bad... they just don't spontaneously explode. Investigate that first.
Tantalums are wonderful in that they don't age like electrolytics.
I'm going to have to disagree. Tantalums *do* age. And when they do, they fail shorted and explode. They age especially poorly with disuse. This is a very common problem in the vintage computer world - where boards have been sitting for decades, then plugged into a fully working machine, and *foom!*, the tantalum across the power rails on the card goes up in smoke.
Perhaps capacitors made in the late 80's/90's are better, but I see tantalums from the 70's and early 80's failing all the time.
-Ian
From what I've read, it appears that tantalums are also more susceptible to ESD and humidity risks than elecrolytic caps too.
Due to long life and temp extremes, I use exclusively tantalums on these boards - never in nearly 22 years that I have been making these boards has a tantalum ever failed.