Rampage no sound

thebman80

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For the life of me I can't figure this one out. I wired the game from scratch let me put that on the table first. I have checked and rechecked the schematics and pinouts on the web several times now and I'm 100% sure all the sound portion is wired correctly. I can turn the volume pot and hear the hum/background noise get louder and softer so that seems right. Would anyone happen to know the value of the volume pot in a rampage game? I stole this one out of another game and it has no value written on it. The sound board LED does blink 6 times and go off so everything seems to work there. I have attract sounds on and that shows up in the Self test as being on. Oh and all voltages check out fine.

Any suggestions as to what I could do? Knowing the volume pot value would help me greatly. After I figure this out my restore is basically done.
 
The Pot is 1K 1/2watt part # 105E-00001-0017. It's on page 2-7 of the Rampage manual under item 7.

Do you have sound in test mode when you press the buttons? Do you have sound when you press the reset button on the Sounds Good board? Where did you get the board (original?).
 
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Nope no sound in test mode at all also no sound when you reset the sound board. I think I picked it up on eBay I have a 2nd board but it met an unfortunately demise when I accidentally reversed voltages on the board over a year ago Popped a cap on the board.
 
Yeah it does have roms on it I Have another board that I exchanged the roms with still was a no go. The board passes the LED blinking test Blinks 6 times then goes off to confirm all is working. I'm going to go see if Radio shack has the 1K 1/2W pot and see if that makes any difference.
 
Your problem is most likely the DAC IC on the 'Sounds Good' audio board. I found them at Newark AD7533JNZ DAC. $7.23. It helps to have a known working board to swap the part with to prove this out. www.zinfer.com/xenophobe.htm
 
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Although that's a good idea to keep the parts to spec, I don't think that's your problem. If this is a board off ebay, are the jumper settings correct. I believe J1 and J2 should be open, J3 should be shorted. If that is correct, I agree w/ Zinfer, sounds like a DAC or op-amp problem.
 
I had to double check before I suggested this, and I just did. I have a small guitar amp. Any amp will do, even an old receiver, something that takes low level input. I hook it up w/ input ground connected to the grounded metal plate behind the sound board, and the input audio to a probe. Then, just probe the various sound outputs on the chips. First start the DAC (U10). Pin 15 is the analog output. Then, U3 pin 2 followed by pin 14, then U2 pin 14, U1 pin 7 and finally U2 pin 2. On my sounds good, I had audio at all those locations.
 
Hmm yeah maybe that is the issue I have another board I could swap it off of and see if it makes any difference.

Also this is the Pinout I followed to wire up the game in that link you sent me looks like one 12V line? This says there are 2 and 2 5V lines to the sounds good board. I have my game hooked up like this and don't have pin 7 hooked up.

http://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/spies.cgi?action=url&type=pinout&page=Rampage.txt

J2 - Power Input (12 pins, .156")
- I'm not sure about the difference between the "A", "E", and "L" grounds;
I've treated the "A"(udio?) and "L"(ogic?) grounds identically and had
acceptable results. Your mileage may vary.
1 - A GND
2 - A GND
3 - +5V
4 - +5V
5 - +12V
6 - +12V
7 - E GND (unused)
8 - Key
9 - Sound Reset (from CPU, J3, pin 15)
10 - Sound Reset
11 - L GND
12 - L GND


If this doesn't work Orion still have a Sounds good board?
 
Also JW1 and JW2 there is nothing there on those 2 locations and 3 has the Zero ohm resistor. Both my boards have JW1 and JW2 removed, I also swapped the DAC off my spare board made no difference.
 
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I had to double check before I suggested this, and I just did. I have a small guitar amp. Any amp will do, even an old receiver, something that takes low level input. I hook it up w/ input ground connected to the grounded metal plate behind the sound board, and the input audio to a probe. Then, just probe the various sound outputs on the chips. First start the DAC (U10). Pin 15 is the analog output. Then, U3 pin 2 followed by pin 14, then U2 pin 14, U1 pin 7 and finally U2 pin 2. On my sounds good, I had audio at all those locations.


I don't have any of that stuff.
 
Ok, I got sound but it only seems to come out of one speaker and its really faint. I have tried a 100 ohm pot and a 10k pot and the volume stays at the exact same level with each only the 10k can wipe the sound down to zero and the 100 ohm cant. The culprit was on the sounds good board location Q2 transistor 2N5305. Apparently two legs where broken off and it was next to impossible to tell by looking at it. I accidentally found it when I moved the part and saw the legs where detached.

Now any Ideas as to why the sound is so faint? I'm going to order the 1k pot off eBay so I can get that taken care of.
 
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Wow, that's a wierd one. Good catch on the broken transistor. I can only think it's the pot that's affecting the volume itself. Sounds like you visually looked over everything on the board and you'd definitely have spotted a burnt resistor or cap.
I'm reaching when I say you might try reflowing the header. I'm pretty sure you already checked/wiggled the speaker wires. Check for a blown speaker?
I was for sure it was the DAC as that was my experience. Once replaced it worked fine.
 
Well I already reflowed the solder on the Amp board there was a broken solder joint on one pin that was stopping the right speaker from getting any sound. This unfortunately wasn't the reason that no sound was coming out of that side I can hear the left side making game noises but the right side does nothing unless its suppose to put out just game music and it isn't doing that just game effect noises on the left side. The wires going to the speakers where the original ones that came with the cabinet and the original gauge wire. The wire I have going from the Sounds good board to the Amp board is a thinner gauge wire from a scavenged JAMMA harness so maybe I need thicken gauge wire going to the AMP? Or replace the old speaker wire with new stuff and check the speakers. The volume pot was ordered last night so this might take a week to solve if that is the issue.


Oh almost forgot I do have two Amp boards neither one makes a difference to the sound level as far as I can hear.
 
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Got 12V to the amp board. Ok I took my other sounds good board fixed it up and what do you know does the same thing as the other sounds good board. I think I might have heard the music a little with this one not sure but same problem as before really low sounds. maybe the problem is the Amp or the speakers I'm thinking speakers since I have 2 amp boards as well and they both have low sounds when used or there both bad.
 
Did you say you replaced the broken legged transistor at Q2?


Yeah I originally stole the part off the other spare board then just swapped the parts back to that board to test it. The problem is that neither "Sounds good" board works they both do the same exact thing low sounds and no music. I also have 2 Amp boards when I use either one of them with either of the 2 "Sounds good" boards I still get low sounds and no music.
 
Couple things to think about. Are you sure the volume pot is wired correctly? Music? I assume you mean between levels. You could always swap the left and right audio input on the amp, just to make sure the sounds good is putting out the music. Temporarily swap J1 pins 2 and 6. You hopefully will have music and no sound.
 
Well the new Volume pot is in the mail as we speak. If I'm lucky it will be here today tomorrow or Saturday. I will check that tonight and see if I can get the music to come out of the speakers.
 
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