Phetishboy
Well-known member
I really want to be able to play Rampage in my 3 player Pig Out cabinet. Can you help? Is it possible to make an adapter to do this? I was looking at the pinouts of each and it looks like you'd need an engineering degree to construct one. Or is it easier than I think? Can you do a Pigout to Jamma adapter, then a Jamma switcher, then Jamma to Pigout and Jamma to Rampage adapters?
Pin Outs (from Coinop.org):
Pigout "Cynimat SYstem" PCB
----------------------------
PC BOARD P5
-----------
1 N/C
2 1P Join (gray)
3 1P Throw (yellow/black)
4 1P Jump (red/black)
5 1P Right (yellow)
6 1P Left (violet)
7 1P Down (blue)
8 1p Up (green)
9 GND (black)
10 N/C
PC BOARD P6
-----------
1 N/C
2 2P Join (brown)
3 2P Throw (yellow/black)
4 2P Jump (red/black)
5 2P Right (yellow)
6 2P Left (violet)
7 2P Down (blue)
8 2p Up (green)
9 GND (black)
10 N/C
PC BOARD J4
-----------
1 GND (black)
2 3P Join (orange)
3 3P Throw (yellow/black)
4 3P Jump (red/black)
5 3P Right (yellow)
6 3P Left (violet)
7 3P Down (blue)
8 3p Up (green)
9 N/C
10 N/C
PC BOARD p4
-----------
1 N/C
2 N/C
3 N/C
4 Coin Switch 2 (red)
5 N/C
6 Coin Switch 1 (blue/white)
7 N/C
8 Service Switch (green/yellow)
9 GND (black) [also to vol pot pin 1 with 1ohm resistor beforehand]
10 N/C
PC BOARD P2
-----------
1 to vol pot pin 3 (white/black)
2 to SPK1-1 (gray)
SPK1 (speaker lugs I presume)
-----------
1 to P2-2 (gray)
2 to vol pot pin 2 (white/black)
PC BOARD P1
-----------
1 N/C
2 Video Blue (blue)
3 N/C
4 Video Green (green)
5 N/C
6 Video Red (red)
7 Video GND (black)
8 Video Sync POS (white)
9 Video Sync NEG (gray)
10 N/C
PC BOARD J8
-----------
1 +12VDC (Orange)
2 N/C
3 GND (black)
4 GND (black)
5 GND (black)
6 GND (black)
7 N/C
8 +5VDC (red)
9 +5VDC (red)
10 +5VDC (red)
Rampage:
Pinouts for Rampage
Rampage features three boards: CPU, Sounds Good, and a Dual Power Amp. These boards use male MTA (Mass-Termination Assembly) connectors in both the .156" (large) and .100" (small) sizes. You'll need several in both sizes. Power requirements are simple: +5V and +12V are all you need.
For testing purposes, you can run the 68000 CPU board without the SOUNDS GOOD daughterboard. Yes, this means that you can quickly power up the game using only +5V, GND, and the video signals. If you hold the TEST pin (J2, pin 8) to GND, you can then ground the SERVICE pin (J2, pin 7) to cycle through the self-test screens. The practical upshot of all this is that having an incomplete board set isn't a show-stopper. You can play the game quite nicely (albeit silently) without the sound board, with no ill effects.
68000 CPU BOARD
---------------
J1 - Power Input (12 pins, .156")
- The CPU board only requires +5V and GND, but if you want to draw +12V
from the auxillary power connector, it's probably a good idea to connect
it here anyways...
1 - GND
2 - GND
3 - +5V
4 - +5V
5 - Key
6 - Reset Out (unused)
7 - GND
8 - +12V (unusSOUNDS GOOD, J1, pin 2)
11 - Sound 0 (to SOUNDS GOOD, J1, pin 4)
12 - Sound 1 (to SOUNDS GOOD, J1, pin 3)
13 - Sound 2 (to SOUNDS GOOD, J1, pin 9)
14 - Sound 3 (to SOUNDS GOOD, J1, pin 8)
15 - Sound Reset (to SOUNDS GOOD, J2, pin 9)
16 - N/C
17 )
- This is not used in the "official" setup, but can be used if necessary.
For instance, if your power supply doesn't have enough duplicate outputs
to power up all three boards, you can use J6 to supply the other boards
with any missing voltages. If you want to use +12V on this connector,
you'll have to connect the +12V connector on J1.
1 - GND
2 - GND
3 - +5V
1 - A GND
2 - A GND
3 - +5V
4 - +5V
5 - +12V
6 - +12V
7 - E GND (unused)
8 - Key
9 - Sound Reset (from CPU, J3, pin 15)
10 - Sound Reset
11 - L GND
12 - L GND
J3 - Audio Output (12 pins, .100")
- Volume pot "A" and "B" signals go to the two "sides" of the pot.
The "wiper" goes in the "middle".
1 - Volume pot wiper (to POT)
2 - Left audio out (to DUAL POWER AMP, J1, pin 2)
3 - Right audio out (to DUAL POWER AMP, J1, pin 3)
4 - A GND (to DUAL POWER AMP, J1, pin 3)
5 - A GND
6 - Audio out (unused)
7 - Audio out (unused)
8 - A GND
9 - Key
10 - Volume pot A (to POT)
11 - A GND
12 - Volume pot B (to POT)
DUAL POWER AMP
--------------
This is a small board which amplifies the signals produced by the
"Sounds Good" board and sends them to the speakers. I got mine from
an Omega Race board set from 1981. Judging from the age differential,
it's clear that these are fairly c"Dual power amp" board. This board
can handle (and presumably mix) four separate inputs as opposed to two.
I've never seen one of these boards, so again, your mileage may vary...
J1 - Audio Input (11 pins, .100")
1 - L2 shield (unused)
2 - L2 audio (corresponds to DUAL POWER AMP, J1, pin 2)
3 - L1 audio (unused)
4 - L1 shield (corresponds to DUAL POWER AMP, J1, pin 3)
5 - Key
6 - GND
7 - R2 shield (unused)
8 - R2 audio (corresponds to DUAL POWER AMP, J1, pin 6)
9 - R1 audio (unused)
10 - R1 shield (unused)
11 - +12V
J2 - Speaker Output (6 pins, .100")
1 - Right speaker +ve
2 - Right speaker -ve
3 - Key
4 - Left speaker +ve
5 - N/C
6 - Left speaker -ve
Pin Outs (from Coinop.org):
Pigout "Cynimat SYstem" PCB
----------------------------
PC BOARD P5
-----------
1 N/C
2 1P Join (gray)
3 1P Throw (yellow/black)
4 1P Jump (red/black)
5 1P Right (yellow)
6 1P Left (violet)
7 1P Down (blue)
8 1p Up (green)
9 GND (black)
10 N/C
PC BOARD P6
-----------
1 N/C
2 2P Join (brown)
3 2P Throw (yellow/black)
4 2P Jump (red/black)
5 2P Right (yellow)
6 2P Left (violet)
7 2P Down (blue)
8 2p Up (green)
9 GND (black)
10 N/C
PC BOARD J4
-----------
1 GND (black)
2 3P Join (orange)
3 3P Throw (yellow/black)
4 3P Jump (red/black)
5 3P Right (yellow)
6 3P Left (violet)
7 3P Down (blue)
8 3p Up (green)
9 N/C
10 N/C
PC BOARD p4
-----------
1 N/C
2 N/C
3 N/C
4 Coin Switch 2 (red)
5 N/C
6 Coin Switch 1 (blue/white)
7 N/C
8 Service Switch (green/yellow)
9 GND (black) [also to vol pot pin 1 with 1ohm resistor beforehand]
10 N/C
PC BOARD P2
-----------
1 to vol pot pin 3 (white/black)
2 to SPK1-1 (gray)
SPK1 (speaker lugs I presume)
-----------
1 to P2-2 (gray)
2 to vol pot pin 2 (white/black)
PC BOARD P1
-----------
1 N/C
2 Video Blue (blue)
3 N/C
4 Video Green (green)
5 N/C
6 Video Red (red)
7 Video GND (black)
8 Video Sync POS (white)
9 Video Sync NEG (gray)
10 N/C
PC BOARD J8
-----------
1 +12VDC (Orange)
2 N/C
3 GND (black)
4 GND (black)
5 GND (black)
6 GND (black)
7 N/C
8 +5VDC (red)
9 +5VDC (red)
10 +5VDC (red)
Rampage:
Pinouts for Rampage
Rampage features three boards: CPU, Sounds Good, and a Dual Power Amp. These boards use male MTA (Mass-Termination Assembly) connectors in both the .156" (large) and .100" (small) sizes. You'll need several in both sizes. Power requirements are simple: +5V and +12V are all you need.
For testing purposes, you can run the 68000 CPU board without the SOUNDS GOOD daughterboard. Yes, this means that you can quickly power up the game using only +5V, GND, and the video signals. If you hold the TEST pin (J2, pin 8) to GND, you can then ground the SERVICE pin (J2, pin 7) to cycle through the self-test screens. The practical upshot of all this is that having an incomplete board set isn't a show-stopper. You can play the game quite nicely (albeit silently) without the sound board, with no ill effects.
68000 CPU BOARD
---------------
J1 - Power Input (12 pins, .156")
- The CPU board only requires +5V and GND, but if you want to draw +12V
from the auxillary power connector, it's probably a good idea to connect
it here anyways...
1 - GND
2 - GND
3 - +5V
4 - +5V
5 - Key
6 - Reset Out (unused)
7 - GND
8 - +12V (unusSOUNDS GOOD, J1, pin 2)
11 - Sound 0 (to SOUNDS GOOD, J1, pin 4)
12 - Sound 1 (to SOUNDS GOOD, J1, pin 3)
13 - Sound 2 (to SOUNDS GOOD, J1, pin 9)
14 - Sound 3 (to SOUNDS GOOD, J1, pin 8)
15 - Sound Reset (to SOUNDS GOOD, J2, pin 9)
16 - N/C
17 )
- This is not used in the "official" setup, but can be used if necessary.
For instance, if your power supply doesn't have enough duplicate outputs
to power up all three boards, you can use J6 to supply the other boards
with any missing voltages. If you want to use +12V on this connector,
you'll have to connect the +12V connector on J1.
1 - GND
2 - GND
3 - +5V
1 - A GND
2 - A GND
3 - +5V
4 - +5V
5 - +12V
6 - +12V
7 - E GND (unused)
8 - Key
9 - Sound Reset (from CPU, J3, pin 15)
10 - Sound Reset
11 - L GND
12 - L GND
J3 - Audio Output (12 pins, .100")
- Volume pot "A" and "B" signals go to the two "sides" of the pot.
The "wiper" goes in the "middle".
1 - Volume pot wiper (to POT)
2 - Left audio out (to DUAL POWER AMP, J1, pin 2)
3 - Right audio out (to DUAL POWER AMP, J1, pin 3)
4 - A GND (to DUAL POWER AMP, J1, pin 3)
5 - A GND
6 - Audio out (unused)
7 - Audio out (unused)
8 - A GND
9 - Key
10 - Volume pot A (to POT)
11 - A GND
12 - Volume pot B (to POT)
DUAL POWER AMP
--------------
This is a small board which amplifies the signals produced by the
"Sounds Good" board and sends them to the speakers. I got mine from
an Omega Race board set from 1981. Judging from the age differential,
it's clear that these are fairly c"Dual power amp" board. This board
can handle (and presumably mix) four separate inputs as opposed to two.
I've never seen one of these boards, so again, your mileage may vary...
J1 - Audio Input (11 pins, .100")
1 - L2 shield (unused)
2 - L2 audio (corresponds to DUAL POWER AMP, J1, pin 2)
3 - L1 audio (unused)
4 - L1 shield (corresponds to DUAL POWER AMP, J1, pin 3)
5 - Key
6 - GND
7 - R2 shield (unused)
8 - R2 audio (corresponds to DUAL POWER AMP, J1, pin 6)
9 - R1 audio (unused)
10 - R1 shield (unused)
11 - +12V
J2 - Speaker Output (6 pins, .100")
1 - Right speaker +ve
2 - Right speaker -ve
3 - Key
4 - Left speaker +ve
5 - N/C
6 - Left speaker -ve
