This may be a stupid question but lately I've had issues with using two sockets stacked. Do they make a raised socket? I'm currently needing a 40-pin for one of the high score save kits.
Thanks!
Thanks!
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Raised sockets?
- Thread starter Bee423
- Start date
andrewb
Well-known member
What issue are you having?
Machined-pin sockets work a little better, when you need to stack sockets to get more clearance over something. (They also will protect the pins of the HSS kit.)
What kit are you having trouble with?
Machined-pin sockets work a little better, when you need to stack sockets to get more clearance over something. (They also will protect the pins of the HSS kit.)
What kit are you having trouble with?
Look for wire wrap sockets, here is one
p
p
OP
OP
I'm installing a Gyruss online kit using a zip tie but I just can't seem to get a tight fit and then any movement that the adapter makes because of the ethernet cable can sometimes cause issues. I had to use a stacked socket for clearance over a nearby chip. I'll check out both suggestions!
wugly
Well-known member
I have used wire wrap sockets for a pacman braze kit and it fits the socket firmer and the wire wrap can be set for the height you need
OP
OP
I order some so hopefully that will do the trick. I removed the stack socket and just installed the kit and it appears to work fine now. I'm just a little concerned that the bottom of the kit is touching the top of a chip underneath. Will that hurt anything?
Don't force wire wrap pins into an IC socket. It will permanently ruin the socket.
Get an elevated machined pin socket instead.
Mill-max 116 series. Not cheap. But super high quality.
Get an elevated machined pin socket instead.
Mill-max 116 series. Not cheap. But super high quality.
Will these work for Braze kits on Nintendo boardsets, such as Mario Bros.? I haven't found a good socket that sits firmly in the original Nintendo socket. I've tried multiple types without joy. The original CPU fits perfectly in the original socket.
Scott C.
Scott C.
There is a long answer here.
I'm on my phone and at my limit with the crap interface. I'll write more when I have a keyboard and monitor.
Those look better than my wire wrap socket suggestion, you can pick the socket height as well, thanks @cwilkson
p
OP
OP
Would one of these work ?
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mill-Max/123-43-640-41-001000?qs=IGgAdOvCTsT9sWDKLd/HYA==
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mill-Max/116-93-640-41-007000?qs=2FPxRVzzrnY3p3qzVsB64Q==
The second one is more expensive, what is the difference?
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mill-Max/123-43-640-41-001000?qs=IGgAdOvCTsT9sWDKLd/HYA==
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mill-Max/116-93-640-41-007000?qs=2FPxRVzzrnY3p3qzVsB64Q==
The second one is more expensive, what is the difference?
The first one is a square wire-wrap post which are larger pins and usually damage the socket pins by forcing them too wide.
The second one has round machine pins which are used to plug into sockets without damaging the pins.
OP
OP
So the second one is what I need to get - right?
It depends on what sort of pins are on the braze kit.
If the kit has machined pins then you could use those or a normal machined pin socket to economically add 1 socket height.
If the kit has square pins then you need to use something different.
If the kit has machined pins then you could use those or a normal machined pin socket to economically add 1 socket height.
If the kit has square pins then you need to use something different.
The Braze MB kit I have includes square pins. I'll review the above links. It's a bit of one time usage since the kit pins pushout the socket pins.
Scott C.
TLDR:
Wire wrap posts were never designed to fit in a socket and you should never try it. Machined pins can fit in normal IC sockets with minimal stressing of the socket. They are designed to fit anywhere a normal IC pin goes.
Disclaimer:
YMMV. Check all datasheets if in doubt.
Full rant:
Most DIP IC pins are nominally 0.010-0.015" thick with maybe +/- 0.002". And the DIP IC sockets are designed to accept those pins....tightly.
Square wire-wrap posts are nominally 0.025" thick. But they aren't always rotation-aligned. So worst case you could be trying to force the biggest dimension, the diagonal, into the socket. Going across the diagonal, that's over 0.035" which is maybe 3 times as big as the socket is expecting. So typically you insert the wire-wrap pins into the socket and it stops and you think it's in. But it's not. It's clinging only by good will and a prayer and it quickly falls out. And the socket is likely spread a little bit. You can force it all the way in, but to do it you have to put the PCB flat on a hard surface and basically STAND on the socket. And maybe jump a little too. Seriously! It takes A LOT of force to get it in there. Unbelievable force. As you might guess this absolutely destroys any hope of the socket ever working normally again. If you need to remove it later, you can but again you need to pry it out with a pry bar. Not as hard as inserting it, but still you need to pull hard enough that you'll start to question if it's soldered in. Don't do this!!!
Machined pins are designed to be inserted in standard IC sockets and can even be safely and securely stacked with each other because the socket end is designed to accept standard IC pins. The pin diameter is 0.018" (+/-0.002"). Because the pin is round it's designed to be slightly larger than the rectangular IC pin thickness to provide equivalent contact tension in the mating socket.
A mill-Max machine pin socket should plug into the DK CPU socket with no problems whatsoever....assuming you socket isn't worn out and hasn't been damaged. It will feel just like plugging in an IC.
If your (insert your daughter board kit's name) came with square pins it will either fall out of the motherboard socket or it will be REALLY in there. Basically permanently. This will permanently damage the socket and you can't remove the daughterboard and go back to the way things were without replacing the original motherboard socket with a new one. If you have square pins I recommend the following work arounds to convert to conrrect sized round pins:
- Remove the square pins, whether they're square "male header" pins, wire wrap posts, or what ever and replace them with machine pin style contacts of the correct length. This is the preferred solution.
- (alternate solution) Get 2 machine pin DIP sockets, maybe the 110 or 111 series, and stack them together. Now solder the top one to the kit's square pins. You won't be able to insert the square pins into the machine pin cups...just contact solder them. Think of it as a permanent pin-adapter. The plastic is likely to soften and the pins will shift under heat and pressure. The bottom stacked socket helps keep those pins straight. Now carefully remove the bottom stacked socket after everything cools down.
wugly
Well-known member
wire wrap posts are soldered onto motherboard. the braze kit is plugged into the wire wrap not the other way around. the wire wrap will blow out a socket but can be soldered onto the board at enough height to clear the other components under it
I thought Braze kits were using header pins? Or possibly a wire wrap socket on the kit board?
If so, they'll wreck a WW socket too. But if you've already replaced the original motherboard socket with a wire wrap, then I guess "who cares" is the order of the day?
I'll have to go look at my "future project parts" pile and see what I received on my Braze kits.
Yep. Those look like standard male headers.
In this case you won't be able to pull them and replace with a socket because they overlap the chip. You'll need to use method #2 above.
Before you solder anything check the new socket pins in your main board socket. Just for your own piece of mind.
Below is an example from one of my prototypes. The green board is one that I did ~20 years ago. It uses a wire wrap socket to raise the daughterboard above the motherboard. The intent was to solder those pins into the main board. Everything else in the photo is part of the new project. I'm using the old board to generate reference signals while prototyping the new project.
Here you can see that I soldered a machine pin socket to the bottom of the wire wrap pins to safely interface to a regular IC socket on the new motherboard:
![IMG_2671[1].JPG](https://sf.arcade-museum.com/data/attachments/674/674090-1ec8cc7ad27d0f41189302020db6e1e6.jpg "IMG_2671[1].JPG")
And here is the mother of all connector adapters. All of this mess....just to get an FPGA to plug into a DIP-40 socket with enough clearance space to still get probes in there!
![IMG_2673[1].JPG](https://sf.arcade-museum.com/data/attachments/674/674091-1b81496554b05db87b212e29d52b1bfd.jpg "IMG_2673[1].JPG")
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