R-Type No Sound

joeybagadonuts

Well-known member

Donor 10 years: 2012-2021
Joined
Dec 29, 2012
Messages
2,557
Reaction score
194
Location
East Windsor, New Jersey
I know there are a ton of the "no sound" R-Type threads but these two already have the capacitors done for the Jamma cabinet. Back story: purchased a non working R-Type (booted to a white screen). Eventually picked up a working one and when I got it the board booted but had no sound. Was able to trouble shot the other non working board and determined the roms on the rom board were corrupt. Reburned the roms and the board booted great, but also with no sound. Both boards have the capacitors (3 in total) in place and the jumper wire remove. I tried both boards in a KI and MK2 cabinets, I don't believe the boards are both faulty and I think I am overlooking something stupid. The only issue I see is that the capacitors aren't the recommended values in the book, but I doubt that would make the volume completely missing. What am I missing, any ideas?
 
If it was me id start with putting in the correct capacitor. Its hard to say if the ones you put in will somewhat work without knowing what you installed and what the correct ones are.
 
have you been here? http://forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewtopic.php?t=11389

did you see this?
Sorry to dredge this topic back up, but I want to clarify that the US version of R-Type does not have any sound when connected to a standard JAMMA setup (at least not on my Astro). This is most likely due to Nintendo publishing the game in the US, and its machines use a modified JAMMA wiring (jerks...). According to this topic you need to do the following to get sound working on a US board: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=69205.0

and is this the cap thing you're referring to?
You need to add three caps for the M72-A-C board.
> C101, C102 2200 mfd 16v, electrolytic
> C108 1 mfd 25v, electrolytic
> You also need to remove a wire that jumps from C108 to C102. (don't
> forget the caps have a plus and minus side...)

and then there was this other link: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=69205.0

I'm guessing Nintendo modified it to use their Sanyo amplifier. I'd always heard these things about it being JAMMA but never actually pulled the filter board off to see for myself. :p

I'm fairly certain the notion that R-Type was OMG FIRST JAMMA GAME EVER is a bunch of hogwash. Namco were the proponents for the JAMMA standard in the first place.
 
5 and 12 volts read good (little high on the 12v) and the capacitors have been added but they are the wrong values. I will replace them this weekend and see if that changes anything. In my experience wrong cap values wouldn't stop hardware from working but I'm a rookie at repairs and I haven't dealt much with these older boards. I'll keep you posted.
 

Attachments

  • 20170527_111010.jpg
    20170527_111010.jpg
    1 MB · Views: 12
  • 20170527_110842.jpg
    20170527_110842.jpg
    941.6 KB · Views: 13
Last edited:
Got one running. It was a cold solder joint on one of the caps in question. Put the other one on hold until after some Memorial Day beers. Thank you to the men and women who serve this great Country.
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20170529-115931.jpg
    Screenshot_20170529-115931.jpg
    495.9 KB · Views: 5
All the correct caps for the second board are put in and it's a no go. Still no sound at all. To boot, I ripped out a trace, like an ass hole, for one of the caps. I hate when I do stupid shit. Temp fix for the trace but it's time to check out other components. I confirmed it is the board with the caps on it.
 
All Fixed

Turns out the second board was the sound amp. What are the chances two boards with no sound had different issues. Originally I thought it had to be my jamma setup. Goes to show you, never assume.

 
since my transition to all temperature-controlled tools, I don't really burn pads off anymore. it's mostly stuff that had previous hack work with 100W irons. oh, and Defender power supplies. those silly things. :p
 
Back
Top Bottom