quick cap kit question

Gov

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quick cap kit question *HELP*

I am in the process of putting an audio cap kit on my NeoGeo MV1. I got the cap kit from arcadecomponents.com. I have come to the 50v 4.7µF caps on the board and the only thing in the bag was 25v 4.7µF caps. I have read/heard in a couple of places that as long as the v is higher you are ok, what about lower?

Did I get the wrong thing or am I ok? Sorry for the newb question.
 
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Anybody? .......

I believe that was the case on a audio Capkit I got from them as we'll. although I'm pretty sure they had a list available that showed what caps were to substitute with different caps. Did you not get a list?
 
I believe that was the case on a audio Capkit I got from them as we'll. although I'm pretty sure they had a list available that showed what caps were to substitute with different caps. Did you not get a list?

No I didn't get that list.
 
You should be fine with that. I think the only occasion I said forget it was when I got in a 3300uf 25v cap as part of a cap kit to replace a 100uf 25v cap for an AR1 pcb.
 
Thanks guys. I got all of them installed, but I still have the static/scratchy sound :( Oh well it was good practice as this was my first cap kit.

I have been reading and it looks like I have a bad trace between two pins on the cart connector and the Yamaha sound chip. The traces on this board are so tiny and compact that it is really hard to follow them to check continuity.

Oh well.
 
Have you checked the stereo/mono switch? Some versions of the MVS pcb's have been known to play-up if that switch has been set to the uncompatable setting,that could be causing the scratchiness,worth checking in any case.
 
The board runs from 12v so 16, 25, or 50v caps are fine.

On the MV1, you'll want to clean the slots and carts VERY well and check for broken, scratched, or corroded traces between the slot and the YM2610.

RJ
 
I have been reading and it looks like I have a bad trace between two pins on the cart connector and the Yamaha sound chip. The traces on this board are so tiny and compact that it is really hard to follow them to check continuity.

Oh well.
No need to follow. Use a multimeter.
 
I did use one and found the pins on the cart connector that weren't working (B55, B54), but figuring out where the problem lies is proving to be the hard part. I will keep tinkering.

If you know where it comes from and where it should go to, you can solder a wire between those two things, no?
 
Yes I can, but I haven't figured 100% yet if I am reading the schematic correctly. I don't want to run a jumper and screw something up.
 
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