Questions for someone with Spy Hunter

Where does power come into the cheap squeak? I dont see any dedicated pins in the schematic.

Edit: never mind, blind as a bat. J2.
 
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Most people cheat the gas pedal pot calibration to make the game easier. The game is designed to give flames/boost for a few secs at full throttle in HI gear but it has a bog down effect that kicks in if left on full throttle into advoid this game feature they rotate the pot to advoid the full throttle bogging down/engine under powered effect.

@fatherpain is absolutely correct. You have to be able to feather/modulate the gas pedal once you shift from LOW to HI gear in order to play the game properly.

Also, the game will not let the car to move from a dead stop unless you are in LOW gear. Most players die a lot from crashing while driving too fast. Restarts happen frequently so having LOW gear selectable is a must.

And there are times when you want to drive in LOW gear full time and there is gas pedal modulation required in this mode as well during the water phase of the game.

I'm all for Jamma alternative to keep these games alive but Spy Hunters controls are very unique and specific to this game.
 
Most people cheat the gas pedal pot calibration to make the game easier. The game is designed to give flames/boost for a few secs at full throttle in HI gear but it has a bog down effect that kicks in if left on full throttle into advoid this game feature they rotate the pot to advoid the full throttle bogging down/engine under powered effect.

@fatherpain is absolutely correct. You have to be able to feather/modulate the gas pedal once you shift from LOW to HI gear in order to play the game properly.

Also, the game will not let the car to move from a dead stop unless you are in LOW gear. Most players die a lot from crashing while driving too fast. Restarts happen frequently so having LOW gear selectable is a must.

And there are times when you want to drive in LOW gear full time and there is gas pedal modulation required in this mode as well during the water phase of the game.

I'm all for Jamma alternative to keep these games alive but Spy Hunters controls are very unique and specific to this game.
> Most people cheat the gas pedal pot calibration to make the game easier. The game is designed to give flames/boost for a few secs at full throttle in HI gear but it has a bog down effect that kicks in if left on full throttle into advoid this game feature they rotate the pot to advoid the full throttle bogging down/engine under powered effect.

Not true.
 
I have a different experience as I've tested and repaired near 20 cabinets now. It's perspective. You can move along.
> Most people cheat the gas pedal pot calibration to make the game easier. The game is designed to give flames/boost for a few secs at full throttle in HI gear but it has a bog down effect that kicks in if left on full throttle into advoid this game feature they rotate the pot to advoid the full throttle bogging down/engine under powered effect.

Not true.
 
Well FWIW this is where I am on a prototype conversion board. I've emulated the entire absolute position board digitally, to get rid of the potentiometers. Steering is driven with a couple of cascading counters with a return to center and max/min limits, and at the moment acceleration is either on or off using a button... you can probably feather it somewhere with some quick presses. I /could/ make it adjustable with up/down but I'm not sure how good of an experience that would be. The shifter is a toggle latch that goes either low or high gear with a button press. For weapons, I'm using the Playstation layout and the missiles / guns are on the wing buttons on the top of the controller and the oil/smoke are two main buttons. The weapons van uses 1P start. It all maps nicely on a Nintendo Pro controller, which I'm using with a BlueRetro. Going to require the jamma extension pins 5/6 to use. At any rate, I think it's going to be reasonably playable. Obviously not the same experience - nothing will be as good as owning the cabinet... but I think it'll be on par with other adaptations. I have a reset circuit, cheap squeak interface for music, separate mixers for effects/music, built-in amplifier, and onboard battery to maintain state. I'm waiting for some prototype boards to come in to actually test it and fine tune some things.

spy_hunter_p.png
 
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I have a different experience as I've tested and repaired near 20 cabinets now. It's perspective. You can move along.
That's great. I've replaced 4 pots myself and helped about a dozen others do the same, going through this same process every time.

You have no idea of what you're talking about and you can move along yourself.
 
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