Questions: Defender Control Panel

D_Harris

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 27, 2008
Messages
2,518
Reaction score
51
Location
Staten Island, New York
Can anyone with a Defender tell me if the control panel is beveled. Or is it perfectly 90° at every angle?

Also does an original Defender control panel use any T-Molding?

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
It is beveled on the edge that meets the monitor bezel.

There is one straight strip of t-molding (textured/leather look) along the front edge facing the player.
 
Retroactive here on the boards did this awhile back I have no idea if they are correct measurements or not maybe shoot him a pm and ask for sure before you use this as gold, but yes there is t-molding on the front and a bevel on the back
index.php
 
Thanks a lot.

I really don't need any measurements. I'm making a custom StarGate panel that will, like Defender, have a one piece top.

One last thing. How much over hang if any is there at the front edge when it is on the cabinet?

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
Its about a 1/4 of an inch or less overhang. It does not stick out farther than the sides of the game, though; its recessed in about an 1/8 inch.


If you want I can give you the exact measurements(I'll use my caliper)
 
Thanks everyone.

There is no need for exact measurements of anything.

What I'm doing is building a StarGate control panel. As you know it has three main pieces ans is basically "C" shaped.

My modification will be that the top portion will be detachable. So this control panel will in effect have a single flat top like that of Defender.

All I need was to determine if I should have bevels and how much it should over hang past the vertical(front) portion.

Thanks again.

Edit: Brien. I was just looking at your Robotron control panel sketch. Have you actually built one?

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
Ok, then I assume you use rabbets and glue blocks to connect the three pieces.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

Yes. I also used Staples.

If you look at the model in Google Sketchup, each piece is it's own component, so you can pull it apart and look at the joints, measure stuff, etc...

I would recommend you download the model and use it to create your design. Would probably help you visualize how everything should work.
 
Retroactive here on the boards did this awhile back I have no idea if they are correct measurements or not maybe shoot him a pm and ask for sure before you use this as gold, but yes there is t-molding on the front and a bevel on the back
index.php

Yeah... good idea ;) The control panel is 1" too big front to back on my diagram... the largest dimension is 9" and should be 8" and the smaller is 8 7/8" and should be 7 7/8". I think I noted that in my original project thread... one day I'll update that diagram...

Arcadenut... nice work on the model :)
 
Last edited:
Arcadenut... nice work on the model :)

Thanks! Was my second Model ever. Was challenging to get the vents just right, but I think it turned out pretty good :)


Yeah... good idea ;) The control panel is 1" to big front to back on my diagram... the largest dimension is 9" and should be 8" and the smaller is 8 7/8" and should be 7 7/8". I think I noted that in my original project thread... one day I'll update that diagram...

Yeah, I checked my model, and the CP is 8" on top and I get 7 13/16" on the bottom, which is probably close enough to 7 7/8" :D
 
Yes. I also used Staples.

If you look at the model in Google Sketchup, each piece is it's own component, so you can pull it apart and look at the joints, measure stuff, etc...

I would recommend you download the model and use it to create your design. Would probably help you visualize how everything should work.

Actually I got all my measurements the easy way. From my original StarGate, Joust, and Robotron control panels. :D

The top side is of course a little wider thanks to the fact that the edge against the cabinet is beveled and the edge facing the player is is squared.

I guess you can say I'm creating what would amount to a combination Defender and StarGate control panel.

The slant for the a Williams' control panels are 10° on top and 9° on the bottom. And at 24-3/8" wide all three main pieces will have to be made of boards that are 6-1/2", 4-9/16", and 3-5/8" wide, respectively. (Before finish cutting to get the proper angles).

I just have to decide if I want to round-over the bottom of the front edge. The glue block connecting the front to the bottom piece will be the most difficult part. (I won't being using veneer because it is difficult to come by and will require that I definitely round-over the front/bottom edge, which would be a chore in and of itself).

Does anyone know a source for the piano hinges used with these control panels? Home Depot and Lowes do not have the exact size, including the hole spacing for bolts.

And are T-nuts really necessary? If so, I'd appreciated a pointer to a source for the correct size.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
I built a bartop for Stargate and Defender based on a Stargate upper. The top is scaled down, but the control panel is actual dimensions (uses a repro CP overlay) cut down in width.

I rounded it over with a router and a roundover bit. Very simple process if you have a router.

More pics/detail of the build on my page if you want to have a look. Good luck!
 

Attachments

  • cpafterroundover.jpg
    cpafterroundover.jpg
    68.6 KB · Views: 22
  • cptest.jpg
    cptest.jpg
    81.4 KB · Views: 21
Does anyone know a source for the piano hinges used with these control panels? Home Depot and Lowes do not have the exact size, including the hole spacing for bolts.

And are T-nuts really necessary? If so, I'd appreciated a pointer to a source for the correct size.

The hinges have not been reproduced AFAIK. You may have to scrounge around and steal on off a different control panel.

T-Nuts are not totally necessary, but they are real nice because if done right, they leave a totally smooth surface without bolt heads to catch your knuckles on.

IIRC, I have used 10-24 x 3/4" or 1" bolts with matching t-nuts. You countersink the top of the control panel with a spade bit just enough so the top of the t-nut is flush.

ken
 
I just have to decide if I want to round-over the bottom of the front edge. The glue block connecting the front to the bottom piece will be the most difficult part. (I won't being using veneer because it is difficult to come by and will require that I definitely round-over the front/bottom edge, which would be a chore in and of itself).

Rounding looks way better in my opinion.

You can use a router, or in my case I just used a Sander with 80 Grit to get the shape I wanted then 200 to smooth it out.
 
Rounding looks way better in my opinion.

You can use a router, or in my case I just used a Sander with 80 Grit to get the shape I wanted then 200 to smooth it out.

I was thinking that perhaps I should round it over after all. But I'm not sure if I can find round-over bit large enough, since both of my router use 1/4" shank bits. (If worse comes to worse I guess I can start with a rasping file).

I hadn't noticed before but the glue blocks do have staples in them also. So I'll have to look into what kind of stapler I'll need.

And I decided that it would be a good idea to add strength by rabbetting after all, because I won't be wrapping the control panel in veneer. So that means that the toughest part will be figuring out how to create the needed groove at an angle.(I'll have to make some sort of jig).

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
The hinges have not been reproduced AFAIK. You may have to scrounge around and steal on off a different control panel.

T-Nuts are not totally necessary, but they are real nice because if done right, they leave a totally smooth surface without bolt heads to catch your knuckles on.

IIRC, I have used 10-24 x 3/4" or 1" bolts with matching t-nuts. You countersink the top of the control panel with a spade bit just enough so the top of the t-nut is flush.

ken

Ok, so the T-nuts are not for adding strength, but to keep everything flush on top.

(And I think I'll let the control panel over-hang at the front about 1/4" maximum. That way it'll still not stick out as far as the sides).

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom