Question 1: So I had a UMK3 cabinet that had a bad termite infestation and I had to get rid of the actual wood cabinet (saved literally everything else of course). Meanwhile the other day the K7000 (obviously not the original monitor) in my MK4 was acting up, so I swapped out the entire monitor with the one from my UMK3 and its working great, aside from the image just being a tad too narrow (only with MK4 though, UMK3 fills the entire screen), so I was hoping to try to adjust the width coil, and wasn't sure which tool would be best for that. I'd preferably just do it while the monitor is powered off, so I would think you can do that with an Alan key? Just never tried that before.
Question 2: The K7000 (P538) that was in the MK4 has a P602/P723) board attached to it, so I was just wondering if the standard K7000 cap kit would work on this chassis. There's only the one additional cap on the little board (electrolytic, at least), so I assume the rest match a standard P538 board, just want reassurance.
I know I can just cap the K7000 that was in the MK4, and I do plan on doing that, but the RCA tube that's paired with the chassis that's in there now suits the game a bit better (less grainy picture) than the Philips tube thay was in there before. Also, yes, MK4 sucks
Attached pics of the little board and the black bars on MK4 sides.
Question 2: The K7000 (P538) that was in the MK4 has a P602/P723) board attached to it, so I was just wondering if the standard K7000 cap kit would work on this chassis. There's only the one additional cap on the little board (electrolytic, at least), so I assume the rest match a standard P538 board, just want reassurance.
I know I can just cap the K7000 that was in the MK4, and I do plan on doing that, but the RCA tube that's paired with the chassis that's in there now suits the game a bit better (less grainy picture) than the Philips tube thay was in there before. Also, yes, MK4 sucks

