Questions about 2 different K7000s

brandogg

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Question 1: So I had a UMK3 cabinet that had a bad termite infestation and I had to get rid of the actual wood cabinet (saved literally everything else of course). Meanwhile the other day the K7000 (obviously not the original monitor) in my MK4 was acting up, so I swapped out the entire monitor with the one from my UMK3 and its working great, aside from the image just being a tad too narrow (only with MK4 though, UMK3 fills the entire screen), so I was hoping to try to adjust the width coil, and wasn't sure which tool would be best for that. I'd preferably just do it while the monitor is powered off, so I would think you can do that with an Alan key? Just never tried that before.

Question 2: The K7000 (P538) that was in the MK4 has a P602/P723) board attached to it, so I was just wondering if the standard K7000 cap kit would work on this chassis. There's only the one additional cap on the little board (electrolytic, at least), so I assume the rest match a standard P538 board, just want reassurance.

I know I can just cap the K7000 that was in the MK4, and I do plan on doing that, but the RCA tube that's paired with the chassis that's in there now suits the game a bit better (less grainy picture) than the Philips tube thay was in there before. Also, yes, MK4 sucks :) Attached pics of the little board and the black bars on MK4 sides.
 

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Question 1: So I had a UMK3 cabinet that had a bad termite infestation and I had to get rid of the actual wood cabinet (saved literally everything else of course). Meanwhile the other day the K7000 (obviously not the original monitor) in my MK4 was acting up, so I swapped out the entire monitor with the one from my UMK3 and its working great, aside from the image just being a tad too narrow (only with MK4 though, UMK3 fills the entire screen), so I was hoping to try to adjust the width coil, and wasn't sure which tool would be best for that. I'd preferably just do it while the monitor is powered off, so I would think you can do that with an Alan key? Just never tried that before.

Question 2: The K7000 (P538) that was in the MK4 has a P602/P723) board attached to it, so I was just wondering if the standard K7000 cap kit would work on this chassis. There's only the one additional cap on the little board (electrolytic, at least), so I assume the rest match a standard P538 board, just want reassurance.

I know I can just cap the K7000 that was in the MK4, and I do plan on doing that, but the RCA tube that's paired with the chassis that's in there now suits the game a bit better (less grainy picture) than the Philips tube thay was in there before. Also, yes, MK4 sucks :) Attached pics of the little board and the black bars on MK4 sides.
your MK4 picture, it's fine. leave it alone

there's a different K7000 cap kit with the extra caps for those add-on boards, it may have P602 in the name.

never adjust width coils, changing the C38 cap with a different value (or replacing the old one) is the way.
 
Yeah I see APAR has one for a P538 with a P612 board but not a P602. They're a bit different (this one just has an extra 35v 10uf on it, assuming everything else is equivalent), wasn't sure if that would be included with the kit that supports the P612 board. If i did end up changing the width cap, I assume a slightly lower resistance would yield a wider picture? I'll probably leave it alone though.
 
Why not adjust the width coil? I know that it'll only adjust out like half an inch max, but seems like it might fix this. You do want to use a plastic tool and go slow and easy. I've found you'll want the monitor to heat up for like 30 minutes first, it will help physically loosen the coil.
 
Do you know which tool? I think it basically looks like an Allen key (would not use one, obviously) would fit but not sure which size.
 
just leave it alone and play your games. why do you have a K7000 in a Mortal Kombat 4 to begin with?
 
Why not adjust the width coil? I know that it'll only adjust out like half an inch max, but seems like it might fix this. You do want to use a plastic tool and go slow and easy. I've found you'll want the monitor to heat up for like 30 minutes first, it will help physically loosen the coil.
The received wisdom regarding width coils is that they're always seized from either heat stress or some idiot operator sticking a metal tool in there. If you try to torque the coil when it's seized you break the coil and it's RIP your chassis.
Do you know which tool? I think it basically looks like an Allen key (would not use one, obviously) would fit but not sure which size.
The search term you need to use is "width coil alignment tool". APAR sells a couple different kits with multiple sizes so you can find one that works..
 
Ok yeah I've seen the tool on APAR just didn't see one that called out a K7000. I'll probably just leave it alone and eventually do some more monitor swapping, but my plan was: barely try to see if it will turn, and if it doesn't, stop.
 
Ok yeah I've seen the tool on APAR just didn't see one that called out a K7000. I'll probably just leave it alone and eventually do some more monitor swapping, but my plan was: barely try to see if it will turn, and if it doesn't, stop.

this one does g07 and k7000
 
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