question about NOS stuff cracking??

LUCKYMAN

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have any of you guys come across problems later after appling NOS artwork on stuff? Like cpos for instance?? I mean i know that they are old and the glue isnt as good as it should be from 82, but im talking about cracking on the bend of the cp.. or where you fold over a bend so to say! Is it because of to much tension from folding over a bend? Do you guys use a contact cememnt of some sorts before install? I seem to get it even using the repo stuff too.. it doesnt happen right away.. takes a a couple of weeks, then i see it.. Some i have dont do it.. but there has been 2 latley...
 
I have had great luck with 3M spray adhesive on NOS overlays. I spray a light mist on them before I put them on.

I just bought 2 cans of this stuff (haven't used it yet) but when I put my NOS tron overlay on a blank cp I have I figure to use it.

concerning the cracks in the bend he is referring to, can a guy rub vitamin E or some shit on there to keep them from cracking?

someone must have experience with this.
 
Here's how I prevent cracking on CPO bends- USE AT YOUR OWN RISK

It seems like anytime I suggest applying heat to something on here, someone else points out what a bad idea it was, and someone else that can't read, melts their crap.

Take this for what it's worth- the overlays use a very thin sheet of Lexan or similar material, and it's that material that starts the cracking process since the underlayers of ink and adhesive are flexible enough.

What I do after installing the CPO is heat the bend CAREFULLY using a heat gun to soften and stress-relieve the Lexan layer, thus setting the curve naturally. I believe this prevents the material from cracking by functioning as a manner of thermal-forming the overlay to match the bends in the control panel.

Remember, there is a fine line between stress relieving the material and making it look like that guys face when the Ark is opened in Raiders of the Lost Ark. It's Beautifulllllll!!!! <face starts to melt>
 
I haven't done it before but had read other guys saying to use heat (e.g. heat gun) to prevent cracking. Another guy noted heating his control panel in the oven before applying. Would not want to go too hot. Can anyone comment?
 
Here's how I prevent cracking on CPO bends- USE AT YOUR OWN RISK

It seems like anytime I suggest applying heat to something on here, someone else points out what a bad idea it was, and someone else that can't read, melts their crap.

Take this for what it's worth- the overlays use a very thin sheet of Lexan or similar material, and it's that material that starts the cracking process since the underlayers of ink and adhesive are flexible enough.

What I do after installing the CPO is heat the bend CAREFULLY using a heat gun to soften and stress-relieve the Lexan layer, thus setting the curve naturally. I believe this prevents the material from cracking by functioning as a manner of thermal-forming the overlay to match the bends in the control panel.

Remember, there is a fine line between stress relieving the material and making it look like that guys face when the Ark is opened in Raiders of the Lost Ark. It's Beautifulllllll!!!! <face starts to melt>

I would do exactly what he says. Even the heat from a hair dryer might be enough to "mold" it slightly. I've seen some of my repros do this after a short period of time...even when I applied it very slowly. However, my first repro (Tron), is one that I heated and the CPO has been fine.
 
It would seem a hair dryer would work just as well. And since it won't be getting as hot as a heat gun there would be a lower chance of damaging the cpo.
 
deffinitly will try this next time..

Here's how I prevent cracking on CPO bends- USE AT YOUR OWN RISK

It seems like anytime I suggest applying heat to something on here, someone else points out what a bad idea it was, and someone else that can't read, melts their crap.

Take this for what it's worth- the overlays use a very thin sheet of Lexan or similar material, and it's that material that starts the cracking process since the underlayers of ink and adhesive are flexible enough.

What I do after installing the CPO is heat the bend CAREFULLY using a heat gun to soften and stress-relieve the Lexan layer, thus setting the curve naturally. I believe this prevents the material from cracking by functioning as a manner of thermal-forming the overlay to match the bends in the control panel.

Remember, there is a fine line between stress relieving the material and making it look like that guys face when the Ark is opened in Raiders of the Lost Ark. It's Beautifulllllll!!!! <face starts to melt>
 
I have not had any cracking issues.. (knock on wood).. but for adhesion I start with a good gloss coat of paint and let it cure well. Then I apply the cpo, and have 2 strips of wood about 1"x3"x3' long that I put on either side of a bend, flat area..etc.. and 4 or 5 c-clamps that I clamp down onto that..this works well on the top and bottom edges of a cpo if it bends right over. I leave it clamped for a day or two, then move the clamps to change the pressure points. Move it around to all the troubled areas and in a week or two you have a cpo that isn't going to go anywhere.

Really the only issues I have had is receiving cpo's sold as NOS that are not NOS, or NOS stuff that is delaminating in a couple places that did not show up on the picture... both enough to turn me off of buying anymore but some things you cannot be picky if its not available anywhere else.
 
I have not had any cracking issues.. (knock on wood).. but for adhesion I start with a good gloss coat of paint and let it cure well. Then I apply the cpo, and have 2 strips of wood about 1"x3"x3' long that I put on either side of a bend, flat area..etc.. and 4 or 5 c-clamps that I clamp down onto that..this works well on the top and bottom edges of a cpo if it bends right over. I leave it clamped for a day or two, then move the clamps to change the pressure points. Move it around to all the troubled areas and in a week or two you have a cpo that isn't going to go anywhere.

Really the only issues I have had is receiving cpo's sold as NOS that are not NOS, or NOS stuff that is delaminating in a couple places that did not show up on the picture... both enough to turn me off of buying anymore but some things you cannot be picky if its not available anywhere else.

I'd stay away from heat altogether and concentrate on adhering the CPO under high pressure from one end to the other.

I'd also stay away from CPOs made using UV cured inks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
Heat the bends, apply even pressure and avoid air bubbles. It's the bubbles formed by poor molding/adhesion that causes the cracks. The adhesives are pressure activated, but heat molds the lexan. Can't imagine what uv cured inks have to do with anything.
 
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