bungy
Well-known member
I think any of the color vector harnesses will work so long as it's using the right AR-II (-02 or -04) (I think Tempest has an -02). Just check to make sure there are enough wires for the inputs or you will have to add them.
Quantum Repro
- Thread starter mrbill08
- Start date
I think any of the color vector harnesses will work so long as it's using the right AR-II (-02 or -04) (I think Tempest has an -02). Just check to make sure there are enough wires for the inputs or you will have to add them.
eXidy
Well-known member
...
https://picasaweb.google.com/101103480375025638042/Quantum
Should I apply the sideart over my original Quantum or just buy a new cab? Im leaning more towards a new cab...
Jon
https://picasaweb.google.com/101103480375025638042/Quantum
Should I apply the sideart over my original Quantum or just buy a new cab? Im leaning more towards a new cab...
Jon
joeycuda
Well-known member
If you're ok with owning a "reproduction" cabinet, and can swing it, then go for it. Someone would be happy to purchase that one. Unless there's a lot I can't tell from the pics, it looks like a pretty decent original cabinet.
eXidy
Well-known member
...
The cab is alright, probably fine for most but some the yellow soaked into the sideart a little. so it has a light yellow tint to it.
Jon
The cab is alright, probably fine for most but some the yellow soaked into the sideart a little. so it has a light yellow tint to it.
Jon
joeycuda
Well-known member
Sounds like you want perfect looking sideart and the look of a new cabinet. Most importantly, will this be a keeper or will you likely sell it later? The original cabinet might be more desirable to some and a professionally built repro more to others. I'm still planning on scratch building a new cabinet to restore the complete, but waterlogged game I bought. I'm sort of dreading it, but after getting the package from Darin the other day, it's moving up the priority list.
Tronic
Well-known member
Yea, I guess that depends on how crisp and straight you like your cabinets. I have a new repro cab and I don't think I would know the difference except that it doesn't have that old musty smell 
and the edges of the cab are straight and sharp.
Would cost to get the cab to you be to high to get a repro cab?
and the edges of the cab are straight and sharp.Would cost to get the cab to you be to high to get a repro cab?
OP
OP
I'm using the wiring diagrams from both the Space Duel and Quantum schematics and making a wiring chart of what needs to be changed as a guide when I actually mod the harness ("from" / "to"). That way you can also chart all of the wire colors and can see exactly where the signals are going or originating. I am using a new edge connector for the Quantum PCB and of course a different connector than the space duel for the control panel. It's then a matter of selecting which wires will be used for what function from the control panel to the quantum PCB edge connector.
I'm going to make an excel sheet chart and will share when it is finished and I verify that my harness works properly. Please don't pm me for a copy now. I will let you know when it is completed and post it on this thread. No time-frame as I am doing this in my spare time but am motivated to get it done as soon as I can. Seeing that empty Quantum cab will be great motivation.
Bill
I finished entering and checking the excel harness conversion chart and will start modding the space duel harness this weekend. As soon as I test and verify that it is OK, I will post the spreadsheet here.
I'm picking up my newly clothed Quantum cab from Troy today
.Bill
Roadrunner000
Well-known member
Those look very nice Troy..good job on the art...I'm thinking that coin door art should be covered by the coin door lip..it allows for a small amount of play on the direction of the art...in fact on my prototype Agent X..if you look under coin door you can see the art is silkscreened a tad off center..but doesn't make difference under door...I guess if Brett can make sure its adjusted right..but as long as its not way off it should be good..
So Troy you think the melamine is the way to go..I have Brett make me one and I went that way for the exact reason you said...a nice smooth surface is perfect for vinyl otherwise with wood you have to do a lot of prep...although I'm interested to know how that vinyl went on the birch cab..I have one of those for Agent X and wondered if it was smooth enough for the vinyl to go on clean...?
So Troy you think the melamine is the way to go..I have Brett make me one and I went that way for the exact reason you said...a nice smooth surface is perfect for vinyl otherwise with wood you have to do a lot of prep...although I'm interested to know how that vinyl went on the birch cab..I have one of those for Agent X and wondered if it was smooth enough for the vinyl to go on clean...?
Takeman
Well-known member
Bills Birch cab was primed and painted. I just sanded it smooth. I used 600 for the final, then wiped it with alcohol. Went on no different than the melamine....just more prep. The side art is printed on Scotchcal, which has little lines on the back for the air bubbles to escape. Great stuff. I've gotten a few pieces of side art from TOG printed on that. The front is on cheaper vinyl and a little trickier to put on with the cutouts. Tends to want to wrinkle. I did both fronts wet. Bretts cab fronts come off which makes it easy.
Tronic
Well-known member
I'm picking up my newly clothed Quantum cab from Troy today
Bill
I am glad your wait is finally over, Troy did a great job puting the sidart on. Can't wait to see what it looks like completed.
ThisOldGame
Well-known member
Those look amazing guys!!!
since it was brought up and Darrin and forwarded me an email as well addresing some of the alignment issues Ill post that info and hope shed some light on this.
First it sounds like brett used a different cab for these measurements so that could be problem 1
but like roadrunner said the coin door should cover this.
Brett Ill provide you with the proper measurements so you can correct this for future cabs.
So notes on the art/films themseleves. First Atari phsically cut the art out of the films for the final print color-The Dark Blue
which just leaves these areas white (vinyl exposed)
as opposed to just bleeding the art or color all the way in or out to the edge for example.
so the placement of this like Troy said is what it is and is not perfectly centered either
from side to side
I certainly be curious to know the fit on an orginal cab not to mention there couldve been a revision to the cab itslef or to the art at some point to correct any mis alignments during production which Atari has been known to do.
I would also asume that the thin black outline is the cab dimensions and measures
7/16" to the edge of the art on the left and 5/16" on the right so the art and coin door is offset at least 1/8" left to right and sets 1-15/16" down from the speaker cut out
and would love to see a pic of an orginal kickplate with the coin door removed to see if its offset any
since it was brought up and Darrin and forwarded me an email as well addresing some of the alignment issues Ill post that info and hope shed some light on this.
First it sounds like brett used a different cab for these measurements so that could be problem 1
but like roadrunner said the coin door should cover this.
Brett Ill provide you with the proper measurements so you can correct this for future cabs.
So notes on the art/films themseleves. First Atari phsically cut the art out of the films for the final print color-The Dark Blue
which just leaves these areas white (vinyl exposed)
as opposed to just bleeding the art or color all the way in or out to the edge for example.
so the placement of this like Troy said is what it is and is not perfectly centered either
from side to side
I certainly be curious to know the fit on an orginal cab not to mention there couldve been a revision to the cab itslef or to the art at some point to correct any mis alignments during production which Atari has been known to do.
I would also asume that the thin black outline is the cab dimensions and measures
7/16" to the edge of the art on the left and 5/16" on the right so the art and coin door is offset at least 1/8" left to right and sets 1-15/16" down from the speaker cut out
and would love to see a pic of an orginal kickplate with the coin door removed to see if its offset any
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i have an original quantum here, but the kick art is peeled. I copied a Gravitar, and was given the quantum specific parts drawings from Chris moore. Obviously, neither of us new that the coin panel was different. I just double checked all the dimensions of the factory Quantum panel against the vector file i made off Gravitar. The only dimension that wasn't dead on, was the coin door opening placement, and it was only off by 1/4 inch, and it was low. everything else matched up, overall height, width, speaker hole size, and speaker hole placement. once i moved the coin opening up .25 the measurement from the coin door opening at the top to the bottom of the speaker opening matched factory.
Also Rich, the coin door hole is perfectly centered - 8 1/4 on both sides exactly.
Also Rich, the coin door hole is perfectly centered - 8 1/4 on both sides exactly.
OP
OP
Brought my cab home Saturday and it looks even better than the pictures. Troy did an excellent job. I have never applied full sideart and did not want to screw it up, especially considering how much the sideart costs. Chris Moore helped me carry it to the basement. My stairs have a tricky turn and we both really appreciated that the cab was so light since it was made with birch plywood and was empty. We both said how much harder it would be if it was a melamine cab. I think for the little extra prep with the weight savings in my situation it is worth it. If you have a straight shot to your basement the melamine probably makes more sense since it saves you prep time amd effort. For me, I will still go with the birch plywood for any more repro cabs.
I'm about 3/4 of the way through modifying a space duel harness and tweaking my conversion chart based upon my experiences. As soon as I can get it benched up and verify that it is working correctly, I will post the conversion spreadsheet.
In the meantime, if you are modding a Space Duel harness, you will need a 12 pin AMP connector to replace the the purple control panel connector used on Space Duel harness to mate with the Quantum control panel harness (got my Quantum CP harness from Dokert). You'll also need an extra male pin for one of the molex connectors that plugs into the AR board.
Bill
I'm about 3/4 of the way through modifying a space duel harness and tweaking my conversion chart based upon my experiences. As soon as I can get it benched up and verify that it is working correctly, I will post the conversion spreadsheet.
In the meantime, if you are modding a Space Duel harness, you will need a 12 pin AMP connector to replace the the purple control panel connector used on Space Duel harness to mate with the Quantum control panel harness (got my Quantum CP harness from Dokert). You'll also need an extra male pin for one of the molex connectors that plugs into the AR board.
Bill
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bungy
Well-known member
Can you explain? I modded a Space Duel harness and didn't need an extra pin there. I'm using an AR-II-04
OP
OP
Your harness mods are fine and I could have gotten away without it but I am
being anal to as closely match the wiring of the Quantum harness including color coding for ease of debugging. A "little" overkill but if someone gets the cab and has to do any debugging it will minimize trying to comprehend the differences and can use the Quantum harness wiring diagram. When I publish the guide you will see what I did and why. It's probably 5-10 minutes of extra work but if someone gets this cab in the future they will not have a hard time following the wiring.
Bill
OP
OP
As promised, attached is the Space Duel to Quantum harness conversion chart in excel and zip'd. While there may have been easier connections to make, I tried to make the harness look and act as close to the Quantum harness as possible for debugging purposes. I benched up the modified harness and tested coin-up, volume control, test mode, coin counter, P1/P2 buttons and illumination, and trackball. Please see the notes on the trackball connections - depending upon the vintage of your trackball (e.g., green vs. red opto bds), you may have to swap the CLK and DIR signal pins in the vertical and horizontal connectors going to the trackball opto boards.
Bill
View attachment Space Duel to Quantum Harness Conversion.zip
Bill
View attachment Space Duel to Quantum Harness Conversion.zip
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gatordad
Well-known member
Its one of those fancy xlsx files!
