QIX - I need to turn it on, then off, then on again - EVERYTIME

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QIX - I need to turn it on, then off, then on again - EVERYTIME

I am having this really annoying issue with my QIX. The game never boots on the first try. I need to turn the game on, then off, then on again to get it to boot. The first time I turn it on I get a black screen.

I am using the arcade shop switcher adapter with an old used Peter Chaou switching power supply. I also tried an ATX adapter and that didn't work at all. So, I am at a loss here. I have a cordless phone battery installed and the game is saving my settings and high scores perfect.

Could it be related to the coin door interlocks somehow? It's just a guess as it is the only variable I haven't investigated yet. It's a stab in the dark.

I have tried TWO different working PCBS also, same thing with both. I also have a brand new set of ribbon cables.

I wonder if I should try a different switching power supply with the adapter. Or, do you guys know anything I can try? I was thinking it was a reset issue. But I use this same style adapter with my Zoo Keeper and it works perfect.
 
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What are the voltages?
Check all the grounds and clean them.
Otherwise it kind of soundsvlikecan old capacitor issue... Warmup, etc.
 
What are the voltages?
Check all the grounds and clean them.
Otherwise it kind of soundsvlikecan old capacitor issue... Warmup, etc.

The voltages are all perfect. I checked them all over the boards on the chips and on all boards.

Which caps!?
 
The voltages are all perfect. I checked them all over the boards on the chips and on all boards.

Which caps!?

I don't know if that board has one but some boards need something like a power on reset but have not seen one myself. Other than that I don't what to tell you but I would look into this.
 
Does sound like a cap issue.. As its charging up, then the second time there is enough juice..

There are 3 caps on the CPU pcb.. Also some on the sound pcb..

Hell, dig through the harness and clean or replace some of the pins.. Guess it wouldn't hurt.. Could it be a failing transformer?
 
Does sound like a cap issue.. As its charging up, then the second time there is enough juice..

There are 3 caps on the CPU pcb.. Also some on the sound pcb..

Hell, dig through the harness and clean or replace some of the pins.. Guess it wouldn't hurt.. Could it be a failing transformer?

Uh, there are about 50 on the main board!!
 
its the pins making bad connection....i had the same problem...i replaced 90% of them to get it working..
 
Just for fun, try unplugging the marquee. Friend of mine has a phoenix that won't boot right on the first try and although we know the marquee/starter/ballast is causing it, we haven't nailed down the solution. The marquee light flashes while the game is booting and somehow it's causing the game to not boot cleanly, probably messing with the voltages for just a second.
 
Ahh.. Great idea, but taitos use #44 or #47 bulbs and no starter or ballast.. Actually had that same problem with a Bally game that wouldn't boot..
Pulled starter and it fired right up..

Could be pins though.. I've had many taito games (3pcb stack) that had issues with bad pins. Hell, just start at them John.


Just for fun, try unplugging the marquee. Friend of mine has a phoenix that won't boot right on the first try and although we know the marquee/starter/ballast is causing it, we haven't nailed down the solution. The marquee light flashes while the game is booting and somehow it's causing the game to not boot cleanly, probably messing with the voltages for just a second.
 
Well, if it's the pins it's gonna have to be with the bottom two boards since I have tried two CPU boards and have the same issue. I'll see what I can find! :)
 
I have a Zookeeper that does the same exact thing, when it works of course. I have replaced those caps and still have to turn it on and off. Even with a new battery it does not keep the scores. As a side note, I have someone working on making new ribbon cables for Qix and Zookeeper since I cannot seem to find them anywhere. Is there any interest in these?
 
John, you might wanna test them in your ZK cab. But if your nervouse about that, as your ZK works.. Heh. Come on by and use mine.

Greatplainselectronics.com makes ribbon cables to order.. Reasonably priced too!
 
I would switch the ps adapter with zoo keeper and see if that changes anything.
Assuming they are the same, check the pinouts... I am not familiar with those boardsets.
 
Your easiest solution just may be replacing the switcher... There are caps inside those too which may be weak and not be powering the game up right away. Used switchers can cause funky issues like that too. Try putting the meter on it and observe what the voltage is right at start up. You might find a slow gradual increase to +5 which might explain why you have to turn it off then turn it back on to get the game running. If the voltage is there right at start up then the problem is most likely further down the line.
 
Sounds like the reset circuit. Qix uses an external reset line that was generated on the original power supply. I assume that has been duplicated on the switcher adapter. It needs to be slowed down a bit to get the board to come up reliably.
 
Get rid of the dumb switcher, rebuild the original power supply and call it a day. My Taito's all use the original supplies and are rock solid.
 
Sounds like the reset circuit. Qix uses an external reset line that was generated on the original power supply. I assume that has been duplicated on the switcher adapter. It needs to be slowed down a bit to get the board to come up reliably.

I said something about this circuit in post #4 but did not know if this board set has one or not. I would bet it does and this is the issue...
 
Get rid of the dumb switcher, rebuild the original power supply and call it a day. My Taito's all use the original supplies and are rock solid.

+1

This is your best action, The original supply (rebuilt) will last longer than 4 of the new switchers.
 
+1

This is your best action, The original supply (rebuilt) will last longer than 4 of the new switchers.

I agree,
Check pins for crossion issues.
Check the underside of the pins and look for the crack ring around the pins. Resolder with lead base solder.
Look for pervious acid damage on the the pcb.

One of my current projects is fixing a pile of qix pcbs after the first 5 sets. You tend to see these patterns
 
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