advans13
Requested Self-Ban
Q*Bert is leaving the game room. Thought I would check the board over and provide some pics of how the Mike Doyle 10-1 kit installs for reference. I added the factory roms back for some before/after action.
Kill Power - Then (I like to) remove the boards as multi-board kits use the shitty SIP header pins that are difficult to connect into the PCB IC sockets.
Start with either board, in this case the sound board to get used to it. Remove the sound ROMs and CPU from the locations as shown. Inspect the socket pins.
Install CPU into the new sound board as shown and install the board into the CPU socket
To the main board. If you have removed the factory battery and replaced it with a CR2032, you can remove it. There is no need to adjust any factory jumpers. Remove program ROM0, ROM1, and ROM2. Then remove BG0, and BG1 ROMs. Lastly remove FG0, FG1, FG2 and FG3 ROMs.
Again inspect the pins prior to installing anything. These sockets tend to pop the pins out. You can expertly fix them with a small flat head screwdriver which I had to do in many places after this picture was taken. Your main board should look like this.
Install the rest of the kit as shown. Each board is screened with IC location outlines (nice touch), but they can be tricky as some install across multiple sockets. I like to start inserting the pins of the new board at the bottom row of the IC's socket (pins 14/15) and push it in place towards the top of the IC's socket pins (pins 1/24). You can then insert the board by wiggling from left to right as you push down. Since these boards use SIP header pins and not traditional ROM or IC legs you need to essentially drop them in place. Make sure you get the board in the right spot as the fit is extremely tight and you can guarantee it lifting an IC pin out of the socket if you have to pull and readjust.
Kill Power - Then (I like to) remove the boards as multi-board kits use the shitty SIP header pins that are difficult to connect into the PCB IC sockets.
Start with either board, in this case the sound board to get used to it. Remove the sound ROMs and CPU from the locations as shown. Inspect the socket pins.
Install CPU into the new sound board as shown and install the board into the CPU socket
To the main board. If you have removed the factory battery and replaced it with a CR2032, you can remove it. There is no need to adjust any factory jumpers. Remove program ROM0, ROM1, and ROM2. Then remove BG0, and BG1 ROMs. Lastly remove FG0, FG1, FG2 and FG3 ROMs.
Again inspect the pins prior to installing anything. These sockets tend to pop the pins out. You can expertly fix them with a small flat head screwdriver which I had to do in many places after this picture was taken. Your main board should look like this.
Install the rest of the kit as shown. Each board is screened with IC location outlines (nice touch), but they can be tricky as some install across multiple sockets. I like to start inserting the pins of the new board at the bottom row of the IC's socket (pins 14/15) and push it in place towards the top of the IC's socket pins (pins 1/24). You can then insert the board by wiggling from left to right as you push down. Since these boards use SIP header pins and not traditional ROM or IC legs you need to essentially drop them in place. Make sure you get the board in the right spot as the fit is extremely tight and you can guarantee it lifting an IC pin out of the socket if you have to pull and readjust.
