Put in a new flyback and it worked... sort of

john rainbo

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Okay, so I got a new flyback for my monitor (k7000 model), and it seems to be a success. HOWEVER, for some reason when the screen had all black background around white letters (like a option menu screen, for instance), the letters were very fuzzy and out of focus. So, I adjusted the focus to make it sharp. Good, looks great now! But, when it went to a game screen with many colors and graphics all over the screen, then THAT was fuzzy. So, I toned the "screen/voltage" way down, and that seems to have done the trick (more on this later?).

But here's a new problem:

I replaced many caps before this. I say many caps because I didn't have all of them at the time. Only about half or maybe even a hair less of the caps did I replace. It fixed an issue I had (slight hopping), and the screen looked pretty darn good. I had some slight slight vertical lines on the left of the screen before and after the cap kit, but I would live with it. Only showed up on very dark solid colors. I assume one of the many caps I didn't replace would have fixed this.

I'm telling you this because, now, after the new flyback replacement, I see jailbars across the screen much more predominately. It was as if the flyback enhanced the problem. Does this make ANY sense at all? Is it the cap that was bad, or is something wrong with the actual flyback?

Because, quite honestly, that issue where it was sharp on some screens, and not on others scares me. Seems that after adjusting, that's been fixed... or has it? You never know when it may show back up. :(
 
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Nope, that other issue is still an issue. In game looks sharp, but any white letters on a black background are very out of focus. Then, vice versa. I can focus the white letters in super nice, but then the game is out of focus. What in the hell is this? :(

EDIT: the pics I provide make the letters just look like I need to turn down the contrast, but that's not it... it's a focus issue. I can leave the contrast alone and focus the picture and that fixes it perfectly... but only when I'm not in game. :(
 

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As far as your jailbars are concerned, C57 can cause or fix jailbars. Light jailbars on the left seem to be really common on K7000's and sometimes a new C57 won't fix it, sometimes it will. I keep a known good C57 on hand for diagnosing jailbars on chassis. If I install it and they don't go away, I know a full capkit won't fix them either.
 
As far as your jailbars are concerned, C57 can cause or fix jailbars. Light jailbars on the left seem to be really common on K7000's and sometimes a new C57 won't fix it, sometimes it will. I keep a known good C57 on hand for diagnosing jailbars on chassis. If I install it and they don't go away, I know a full capkit won't fix them either.

Okay, sweet. That answers that question. Thanks. Now, just to figure out my bizare focus issue.
 
You could also reinstall your old flyback, if you don't have another new one on hand, and see if the focus issue goes away. That would determin for sure if it is caused by the new flyback.
 
How does the focus track from dark to light if you sacrifice a little brightness?

Also- does the image shrink/stretch some when going from very bright screens/action to dark screens or vice-versa?
 
I had that problem with a galaga turned out it was the convergence rings on the back of the tube. they are normally set by factory and hot glued into place with a painted color line running across. Mine had come loose and shifted i readjusted them by turning them and lining them back up to the factory line and my picture cleared up.
 
your still gonna have focus issues untill you fully cap the thing and fix that gnarly convergence.

Well, I'm going to disagree. I didn't before the flyback replacement, why would it be an issue now? I don't get it.

Anyhow, for the convergence, those convergence tabs should be here in a day or so. So that will be done.
 
How does the focus track from dark to light if you sacrifice a little brightness?

Also- does the image shrink/stretch some when going from very bright screens/action to dark screens or vice-versa?

Brightness isn't making any darn difference, I'm afraid.

And yes, I have a slight blooming/growing pic when it goes super bright to super dark. Not terrible, but it's there

I had that problem with a galaga turned out it was the convergence rings on the back of the tube. they are normally set by factory and hot glued into place with a painted color line running across. Mine had come loose and shifted i readjusted them by turning them and lining them back up to the factory line and my picture cleared up.

Did yours have the issue where it WOULD focus on some screens, but not others?
 
yes. it was depending on the color And i'm not talking about the convergence tab strips. The metal rings that have little tabs on the neck of the tube the rotate and if the glue comes a little loose and they move then you get what you are having. As far as caps go I use an ESR meter because I've had faulty caps which I bought brand new. It happens more than you think. here read this
http://forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&p=99355
 
Well, I'm going to disagree. I didn't before the flyback replacement, why would it be an issue now? I don't get it.

As a guess: when your monitor was new, all the parts aged at the same rate. Therefore, those parts worked with each other at a predictable rate of decay.

Now that you've gone and mucked things up by not completing the job (I am curious why you didn't completely recap all at once) you're introducing issues. Some of those caps are still 'old' values. Even the flyback, since it's new, is going to have a different spec than one that's years and years old.
 
Have you tried a different board or game with this monitor to see if your "fuzziness" goes with it? What is your B+ reading?

What a lot of people call "focus issues" can sometimes actually be a result of poor convergence, a 3-D effect of the text, dirty tube, a "reflection" effect sometimes caused by the slight difference between where the phosphorous lights and the surface of the tube, etc...
 
It seems we're all dancing around the subject without telling you what you do/don't wanna hear so let's try this. Finish off the cap kit and find somebody to rejuvenate your tube. This is a k7000 and there are hundreds of pages out there that talk about how shitty the tubes were on these so it doesn't surprise me that you're having image issues.
 
It seems we're all dancing around the subject without telling you what you do/don't wanna hear so let's try this. Finish off the cap kit and find somebody to rejuvenate your tube. This is a k7000 and there are hundreds of pages out there that talk about how shitty the tubes were on these so it doesn't surprise me that you're having image issues.

if its a 10 pin neck i can rejuve it steve-o
 
It seems we're all dancing around the subject without telling you what you do/don't wanna hear so let's try this. Finish off the cap kit and find somebody to rejuvenate your tube. This is a k7000 and there are hundreds of pages out there that talk about how shitty the tubes were on these so it doesn't surprise me that you're having image issues.

I just find it lame-o that after a flyback replacement, it's doing it. :(

And mike, I think it is 10 pin. I remember having to count the flyback pins because getting them all to line up into their respective holes was proving to be a real bitch. ;)
 
I just find it lame-o that after a flyback replacement, it's doing it. :(

And mike, I think it is 10 pin. I remember having to count the flyback pins because getting them all to line up into their respective holes was proving to be a real bitch. ;)

He is refering to the number of pins on the neck of the tube, not the flyback.
 
He is refering to the number of pins on the neck of the tube, not the flyback.

Oh dear, clearly I'm retarded.

Speaking of retarded, I compared the C57 cap with what was on there... what is SUPPOSED to be there is a 47uf 160 (or 200), what was there? a 22uf 250v. Nice. I replaced it, but same jail bars, as light as they may be.
 
I am throwing up my arms and quitting. I just bought a new in box Wells 24.8 (one of the last they made before stopping std def tubes all together). To hell with this monitor.
 
I am throwing up my arms and quitting. I just bought a new in box Wells 24.8 (one of the last they made before stopping std def tubes all together). To hell with this monitor.

If you don't have another tube to test it on, you can always send the chassis to me for repair. $50 + parts + shipping. If it has a problem, I'll fix it. If it works just fine on my tube, then there is no charge for repair and you just pay return shipping. At least then you'd know whether it was good or not. And if it IS broken, then it'll be fixed...
 
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