purple hue after about an hour of play

Arcade74

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Monitor takes on a purple hue after about an hour of play. Monitor is in a KI2 cab. I dont know the type of monitor, but whats my moniotr issue/fix???
 
this means you're losing green. CRTs operate with 3 different primary colors: red, green and blue. the purple tint is because it's only putting out red and blue. sounds like a kindergarten lesson..

how does the overall picture look when you turn the monitor on? do you get clear whites or do they always have a purple-ish tint to them?

I've heard of monitors doing this and it's usually caused by a tube-related issue. however, I don't see why it wouldn't be plausible that maybe the green transistor is going bad, maybe when it reaches a certain temperature it quits.

I'm not an electronics guru, so I don't know if that really happens or not.
 
Its works good, until 1hr of play. I can see a differnce in color.
Am i looking at a recap?? I want to do one if its it. If its something else would be too advance?The games is not mines yet, so the vauge answers.
 
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cap kit will not correct this, no.

what I would try first though is swapping drive transistors. if you look at the neckboard, there will be 3 transistors with heatsinks (usually) and they'll go in the order of the color adjustment pots on the top. actually, this is even easier, the affected one (maybe) will be the middle one. desolder it and one of the other two and switch them around, solder them back in.

permitting it's a transistor failure, you would be looking at a yellow tint if blue goes (assuming you chose blue as your donor and plugged the potentially bad green in the blue spot) and a cyan tint if red goes (same, just if you used the red transistor to swap)

if you've still got a purple tint, then it's not related to the drive transistors, but is instead a tube issue.

the way to correct that is with a monitor rejuvenator, which will clean the dirty CRT guns, and possibly give you a nice picture again. it does reduce the overall life of the tube, but what would you rather have a shitty looking tube for eternity or a nicer tube for a shorter amount of time?

cold solder on the drive transistors is also a possibility. you might fix the problem by just reflowing the solder on all the transistors. :)
 
cap kit will not correct this, no.

what I would try first though is swapping drive transistors. if you look at the neckboard, there will be 3 transistors with heatsinks (usually) and they'll go in the order of the color adjustment pots on the top. actually, this is even easier, the affected one (maybe) will be the middle one. desolder it and one of the other two and switch them around, solder them back in.

permitting it's a transistor failure, you would be looking at a yellow tint if blue goes (assuming you chose blue as your donor and plugged the potentially bad green in the blue spot) and a cyan tint if red goes (same, just if you used the red transistor to swap)

if you've still got a purple tint, then it's not related to the drive transistors, but is instead a tube issue.

the way to correct that is with a monitor rejuvenator, which will clean the dirty CRT guns, and possibly give you a nice picture again. it does reduce the overall life of the tube, but what would you rather have a shitty looking tube for eternity or a nicer tube for a shorter amount of time?

cold solder on the drive transistors is also a possibility. you might fix the problem by just reflowing the solder on all the transistors. :)


"cold solder on the drive transistors is also a possibility. you might fix the problem by just reflowing the solder on all the transistors. :)"

This is what I want to do first. Now what to do--Discharge? Then put the board out? OR just reflow it if I can reach it?????
 
if you have a Hantarex Polo, those things are an absolute MOTHERFUCKER. the chassis will be an orange/brown color. it may even have a label on the neckboard that says HANTAREX POLO on it. or the power supply cage will say it too. I say they're a motherfucker because even if you discharge the tube, the transistors still hold a charge lol. I wonder if you can discharge those at the base without shorting them out..?

otherwise, I don't know what KI2's also shipped with... I don't think K7000, cause mine didn't come with an isolation transformer. U2000? I don't know.

take a picture of the chassis if you can get at it. I know that particular cab "gets in the way"
 
if you have a Hantarex Polo, those things are an absolute MOTHERFUCKER. the chassis will be an orange/brown color. it may even have a label on the neckboard that says HANTAREX POLO on it. or the power supply cage will say it too. I say they're a motherfucker because even if you discharge the tube, the transistors still hold a charge lol. I wonder if you can discharge those at the base without shorting them out..?

otherwise, I don't know what KI2's also shipped with... I don't think K7000, cause mine didn't come with an isolation transformer. U2000? I don't know.

take a picture of the chassis if you can get at it. I know that particular cab "gets in the way"


I didnt see a isloation tranformer.
Again it acts up after an hour, so at a certain temp the Green stops working (Im guessing). Going to reflow it today. Anybody got more tips for me?
 
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