Proud Owner of a Star Wars (where to start)

Parpunk

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Hey guys just had a real nice star wars fall in my lap over the weekend and i got her home and not sure where to start with her. I have done some monitor rebuilds, but this one looks a little more advanced. I got some pictures here of it, and just wanted to see if anyone can give me pointers on good places for info on these, a copy of a manual. Or anything.

Status: I just got it unloaded before the superbowl last night so I have not yet turned it on, but the guy said it fires up works, and plays blind. I did notice that it looks like 1 (possibly both) of the fuses on the amplifone deflection board (board to the right after u take the back door off). were blown. So i was afraid to just turn it on, and didn't wanna cause more damage. I think i can afford to sink some cash into it and still make it a good deal, for what i have invested in it. So would love to replace all the "normal fail components" and get it 100% going again. Thanks in advance for the help.

PS I have been back reading other SW threads and read about a amp or WG? Just curious can anyone tell what mine is from the pics? thanx

Also she is real dirty inside so first things first i gotta do some vacuuming and dusting.





http://s85.photobucket.com/albums/k46/parpunk/Star Wars Vid/?action=view&current=100_1508.jpg
 
Insides>>>>>>>

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you have an amp monitor you lucky s.o.b. :D

manual is at crazy kong
 
haha cool, yea when i hear amp i think of my marshall. lol

But thats cool and im excited cant wait to get her going. I know NOTHING about amplifone monitors so im gonna have to start reading up on some threads around here.

thanks for the info so far. any more input would be fantastic.
 
You have the original (Dead Red) flyback in there. Chances are that the flyback is toast and when they go bad they also take out the BU406D transistor.

Order a new flyback from Arcadeshop or Arcadecup. Mean while you also need to buy a HV probe as when replacing a flyback you will need to adjust the HV.
If it were me, I'd go ahead and buy a get well kit (cap kit) for it and do it right.
Reflow all molex headers are they are infamous for cold solder joints.

Congrats on your score - great game.
 
Sweet game... and of course, the highly admired amplifone monitor to boot! I'm jealous. Congrats.
There's lots of info and help on these monitors so if that's all that's wrong with it, I bet you have it running in no time.
 
AWESOME! but that sucks i dont have an HV probe, and they are pretty pricey arent they? :-(.

Any info on the fuses?
 
You could always buy an already-rebuilt HV board.

I'd also recommend getting the Atari PS kit from Bob Roberts. It'll replace the big blue and several other parts on the PS. It also comes with all the fuses the PS needs.

Mine was pretty filthy on the inside as well. It looks nice now though. I used a ton of Simple Green on it.

You should ensure you have a fan on the HV board. Use an AC fan, not a DC one; no point in putting additional stress on the Atari PS. You'll likely need to tap into the power leading to the marquee for that one. The two AC distribution points on the Atari PS in a Star Wars are feeding the marquee and the fan that is on the right side blowing into the PCB cage. I got nice new replacement fans from Bob Roberts. Mine had noise from the fan on the left-side rattling against the side of the cab. I re-mounted it with L-brackets I bought from Home Depot and that helped a bunch.

Good luck and congrats on a nice score.
 
If you want those rebuilt/upgraded let me know. It's not cheap, but they will be better than new. I would not just pop a new fuse in and hope it works. I would also test your +5vdc at the motherboard before running it any longer.
 
You have the original (Dead Red) flyback in there. Chances are that the flyback is toast and when they go bad they also take out the BU406D transistor.

Order a new flyback from Arcadeshop or Arcadecup. Mean while you also need to buy a HV probe as when replacing a flyback you will need to adjust the HV.
If it were me, I'd go ahead and buy a get well kit (cap kit) for it and do it right.
Reflow all molex headers are they are infamous for cold solder joints.

Congrats on your score - great game.

why is the flyback from Arcadecup so much cheaper than Arcadeshops?....they look like the same part number! are they made better/worse?

thanks
Kelly
 
If you want those rebuilt/upgraded let me know. It's not cheap, but they will be better than new. I would not just pop a new fuse in and hope it works. I would also test your +5vdc at the motherboard before running it any longer.

Also to test the +5vdc is it done the same way as testing on jamma boards? pos and neg lead on opposite ends diagonally apart on an eprom? I suppose the boards need to be pulled out of the cage for this too right?

Anything to be worried about getting shocked from......... aside from the anode and monitor on this one?. Thanks!
 
When using my digital multi-meter, I just needed to put one lead on a ground test point and the other one on whatever voltage I'm testing. If your multi-meter isn't auto-ranging, make sure you have the range set appropriately for whatever voltage you're testing.

You do need to pull the boards out of the cage to get to the test points.

I've not been shocked on anything on my Star Wars...but of course, I am careful around the anode and the high voltage board. And since I know little about the Amplifone high voltage and deflection boards, I left that part to a couple of trusted people that know them well. One of them has responded in this thread and offered to rebuild/upgrade your boards. His work is excellent.

Also to test the +5vdc is it done the same way as testing on jamma boards? pos and neg lead on opposite ends diagonally apart on an eprom? I suppose the boards need to be pulled out of the cage for this too right?

Anything to be worried about getting shocked from......... aside from the anode and monitor on this one?. Thanks!
 
Also to test the +5vdc is it done the same way as testing on jamma boards? pos and neg lead on opposite ends diagonally apart on an eprom? I suppose the boards need to be pulled out of the cage for this too right?

Anything to be worried about getting shocked from......... aside from the anode and monitor on this one?. Thanks!

You only need to slide the motherboard out of the cage a tiny bit to see the two metal tabs/rings marked GND and +5vdc. Just measure across them.
 
You have the original (Dead Red) flyback in there. Chances are that the flyback is toast and when they go bad they also take out the BU406D transistor.

Order a new flyback from Arcadeshop or Arcadecup. Mean while you also need to buy a HV probe as when replacing a flyback you will need to adjust the HV.
If it were me, I'd go ahead and buy a get well kit (cap kit) for it and do it right.
Reflow all molex headers are they are infamous for cold solder joints.

Congrats on your score - great game.

Ok cool yea so far it all seems pretty self explanatory. And i feel i have the skills needed to replace to flyback/caps/and reflow. (don't look much different than when i replaced them on my g07 and WG4600) Hopefully that will keep her going strong. Only thing im confused about so far is the BU406 and addding an external hvfr damper diode????? upgrade

http://www.therealbobroberts.net/amplyot.html

I see BR talking about it there but its kinda greek to me. I never replaced any diodes before, or added them anywhere. Anyone have any pics of this mod? Or could explain it a little better.

Also anyone have a link of how to dial in the HV if i go ahead and get an HV probe. And can anyone link me to a good priced HV probe thats easy to use.

My confidence is getting stronger guys :) Hope to have her going soon.
 
Awesome thanks Jim and everyone else for all the tips and the help, i should be able to get this up and running soon. Thanks again!
 
There's guys here that would give their left nut for an Amp monitor, much less a complete SW Upright for the price you paid. Consider that a solid investment. You, my friend, just spun straw into gold.
 
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