Primer before Primer??

DJMN

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I'm going to be painting a cab I'm restoring. I'm going to be spraying PPG Seal Grip primer and PPG Break-Through paint. Both are waterborne Acrylic Latex. The cab has particle board sides (not MDF). There are a couple small areas on the sides where I have sanded down to the bare particle board in the restoration.
Am I safe to use the Seal Grip primer over those areas, or do I need to use a separate primer before I even use that primer? If so, what should I be using and will there be any problem with the Seal Grip reacting to that other primer?
Thanks.
 
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I'm going to be painting a cab I'm restoring. I'm going to be spraying PPG Seal Grip primer and PPG Break-Through paint. Both are waterborne. The cab has particle board sides (not MDF). There are a couple small areas on the sides where I have sanded down to the bare particle board in the restoration.
Am I safe to use the Seal Grip primer over those areas, or do I need to use a separate primer before I even use that primer? If so, what should I be using and will there be any problem with the Seal Grip reacting to that other primer?
Thanks.

it might suck it in alittle but it should be ok.
 
I'm going to be painting a cab I'm restoring. I'm going to be spraying PPG Seal Grip primer and PPG Break-Through paint. Both are waterborne. The cab has particle board sides (not MDF). There are a couple small areas on the sides where I have sanded down to the bare particle board in the restoration.
Am I safe to use the Seal Grip primer over those areas, or do I need to use a separate primer before I even use that primer? If so, what should I be using and will there be any problem with the Seal Grip reacting to that other primer?
Thanks.

So you are spraying a sealer, and then color over that?

If that is the case, then I would definitely addresss the break thrus with a sandable primer to smooth out the surface before you spray your sealer. You can even use a automotive rattle can primer. A sealer is a reduced primer....so it acts a lot like a basecoat in that it won't hide areas if there is a big difference in texture or sand scratches. If you have circular broken through areas, you may end up with "buttholes" showing and not a smooth even flat surface.... once you spray your seal coat and those will translate all the way to your top coat.

Edit*** I just googled that sealer/primer. Didn't realize it wasn't automotive paint....so it's probably a lot thicker. You should be good....but if it was me, I'd still separately prime and block down those trouble areas before sealing to give yourself a nice smooth starting surface.
 
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Thanks for the info. Sorry, I should have put in the original post that it wasn't automotive it was Acrylic Latex. That's why I was wondering if it's safe on the bare spots of particle board or if it would swell due to the waterborne primer?
I'm going to be doing a few coats of the primer if that matters as far as smoothing out. I'm not opposed to addressing those spots first with a different primer, I'm just wondering what I should use and if it would interact badly with the seal grip primer?
Thanks
 
So you are spraying a sealer, and then color over that?

If that is the case, then I would definitely addresss the break thrus with a sandable primer to smooth out the surface before you spray your sealer. You can even use a automotive rattle can primer. A sealer is a reduced primer....so it acts a lot like a basecoat in that it won't hide areas if there is a big difference in texture or sand scratches. If you have circular broken through areas, you may end up with "buttholes" showing and not a smooth even flat surface.... once you spray your seal coat and those will translate all the way to your top coat.

Edit*** I just googled that sealer/primer. Didn't realize it wasn't automotive paint....so it's probably a lot thicker. You should be good....but if it was me, I'd still separately prime and block down those trouble areas before sealing to give yourself a nice smooth starting surface.

actually you are wrong,, its alot thinner.
Even with a primer gun with a heavy nozzle.
The primer is actually hiding the pits , steps and dings.. the sealer (which i think is un needed) is to protect the surface from the elements.
Primer breathes and covers bondo.
You can also find your high and low spots by using a check coat.

I dont compare painting an arcade machine with painting a steel or fibreglass car.
Metal will need the sealer and a few other things but can handle alot more products than
a wooden cabinet can.
 
actually you are wrong,, its alot thinner.
Even with a primer gun with a heavy nozzle.
The primer is actually hiding the pits , steps and dings.. the sealer (which i think is un needed) is to protect the surface from the elements.
Primer breathes and covers bondo.
You can also find your high and low spots by using a check coat.

I dont compare painting an arcade machine with painting a steel or fibreglass car.
Metal will need the sealer and a few other things but can handle alot more products than
a wooden cabinet can.


I know what primer and sealer are for...or atleast I would hope I do having worked for Mercedes Benz, BMW, Lexus, and Porsche. But thanks for clarifying. I was unfamiliar with the material he was using....I assumed automotive.

Anyways, I prep and finish my cabs like cars. But that's just me.
 
Update

Just an update to help anyone who may stumble across this thread later.
After calling PPG directly I was told the Seal Grip line of waterborne paints shouldn't have an issue over bare particle board. I tried a test spot and immediately found out this was not the case. It caused the wood particles to swell, leaving the area "bumpy". I resanded this area down again and then used Kilz Original Oil Based in an aerosol can on all the bare spots. Worked great, and now i'm ready to use the Seal Grip over that.
Thanks
 
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