Primal Rage joystick - value of game or repair cost

AppleAmusements

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Primal Rage joystick - value of game or repair cost

Hi all, I have a local Primal rage but the owner says the player joystick "up" button is broker... not sure if he means a contact inside the joystick or a button... I'm wondering the rarity of finding a suitable replacement part, the difficulty of this repair job, and the value of the machine as is. It is a simple game I think the kids would like but I'm not a tech. I think i could figure out some basic stuff but don't want to get in over my head.

What do you guys think? he started by asking around $200 I believe.
 
Well, it depends if the problem is in the joystick or the circuit board. The joystick has 4 switches on it, that can be replaced very cheaply (under a dollar if you dont include shipping!)

http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/en/10-125-gram-micro.html

If it is just that, the old one pops off and the new one pops in. 2 quick disconnect wires to move over and your done. Do you have a multimeter or any basic diagnostic tools?
 
Thanks! No I don't have a MM but I am looking to pick one up at Radio Shack soon. From what I've been reading a basic continuity test is what you do on the pins or wires?

Any suggestions on multimters or are they all kinda equal? That looks like it has an edge that needs to be soldered too... any advice of a soldering tool?
 
The microswitch dosnt need to be soldered, the quick connect tabs just clip on to those legs sticking out.

To answer the soldering question anyway, for a starter soldering tool a small 25w pencil iron from radio shack will do fine. Pickup a smaller tip than they usually come with, and read the instructions on tinning the tip as well. On MM's, there are quite a few options from a $10 meter to a $200 meter and beyond. For starters, the cheap meter will be fine till you learn a bit, then move on.

What you will want to do first is test the microswitch. Put the meter on the simple continuity test (actually the diode test, but youll learn more of that later :) ) and put one lead on each pin of the switch that the wires are on. Then push the joystick so that it hits the button on the switch. It should show continuity when you have the button pushed, and an open circuit when it is not. I can snag some photos later to show you after I get home (unless someone here beats me to it).
 
Alright, the first image shows a dedicated primal rage cabinet. There is the key socket in the center, then the 2 torx bolts on either side. Take out the 2 bolts, and unlock the key and it folds right down for you.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/9PPth7RDCsRf0GLPJWdTaw?feat=directlink


The second image shows the bottom of the joystick. Note the switches that are pushed, remember they are oposite from the top, so the bottom one is pushed when you push up. See the 2 screw on the top of each? They let you take off the microswitch. Then there are the disconnect tabs. Just pull, they may be a bit tight, and some have a little push pin on the top to take em off easier, but just pull and rock side to side a little and theyll come right off.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/W-QU1_viTPyoQxFFLFXX4g?feat=directlink

Now the 3rd photo is the switch itself. Pin 1 is the common, Pin 2 is the NO contact, and pin 3 is the NC contact. NO means normally open. The NO contact is an open circuit when the button is not pressed, and a closed (continuitous) circuit when the button is pressed. The NC contact is the opposite.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/PQCwD_fPa32vuMcAKbeSAw?feat=directlink

So to check if the switch is the problem, put your meter probes on 1 and 2. With it on the diode check (See 4th image). Now with the button out, not pressed in, it should have just the number 1 off to the left side. Now when you click in the little button, it should change to a resistance value. A good switch will be 0.001 or some other real low number, but a cheap meter may read it bouncing around with values of .02 or a bit higher. As long as it shows contact, and not a real high value, the switch is good.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/sUTdlQ8c0U9dr4YE9gDVYA?feat=directlink

Hope this helps, and let us know if you have any trouble!

And for reference, I paid a bit more than that for my primal rage with a monitor that needed a cap kit. If this is a switch problem and under a dollar to fix, its a great price. Even if its a wiring problem, or connector issue, still no big deal. Hopefully it isnt a pcb problem.

Good luck!
 
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