Prep'ing a really smooth surface for painting

derSturm

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I removed the vinyl from a late '90s cab and the particle board underneath is almost as smooth as laminate. My plan is to (air) prime and paint this thing semi-gloss black with latex. Will going over everything with 220-grit be sufficient prep for priming? Right now I doubt that anything short of napalm is going to stick to these sides.

Also, do you guys 220 with the sandpaper over a sponge or just freehand?
 
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ooh.. the smooth might be leftover glue actually.

IF that was my cab id start at 80, then 120, then 220, then prime, then sand again.... but thaqts me and thats a shitload of work and i use da sanders.
 
I wouldn't dare use water based/latex over particle board. I highly recommend you use oil based Kilz. It stinks, but it won't swell the particle board and it's high build, so fills the pinholes and tiny voids. I'm doing this on a Paperboy cabinet. I sanded the sides, then used Bondo to fix deep scratches, a few chips, and along a few edges that were roughed up. Sanded that smooth, reapplied if needed, sanded smooth. I then did a coat of Kilz, waited a few days, then using an electric sander I sanded it pretty much all the way back down to particle board, leaving primer in scratches, low spots, etc.. I then used a foam roller to apply 2 coats of Kilz. I am hand sanding it smooth with 220 grit, trying not to cut down to the wood. I will end up with a white primer, slick surface. I'll hit that with closer to 400grit paper, then wipe with Naptha, then apply white vinyl. My experience with latex has been mostly disappointing.
 
I've already had the Kilz. I'm fixing to go out and practice spraying it on scrap plywood. I've got the sides all sanded and they feel a whole lot more conducive now. I appreciate y'all.

What about acrylic for the final coat, instead of latex?
 
Rolling on the oil-based Kilz was a pleasantly surprising experience. It went on very smooth. It both highlighted and treated all of the minor little hills and valleys on the surface that my eyes, putty, and sander had missed.

I had the cab lying on one side and Kilz-coated the other. I'm wondering if I couldn't stand the cab up and get the front, back, and other side in one application. Will it stay put just as well when applied vertically, or is it going to drip downward to pool at the bottom? My guess is that it's going to do pretty well either way. Anyone with experience care to chime in? I'm wanting to do the job right, regardless as to how long it takes.
 
Rolling on the oil-based Kilz was a pleasantly surprising experience. It went on very smooth. It both highlighted and treated all of the minor little hills and valleys on the surface that my eyes, putty, and sander had missed.

I had the cab lying on one side and Kilz-coated the other. I'm wondering if I couldn't stand the cab up and get the front, back, and other side in one application. Will it stay put just as well when applied vertically, or is it going to drip downward to pool at the bottom? My guess is that it's going to do pretty well either way. Anyone with experience care to chime in? I'm wanting to do the job right, regardless as to how long it takes.

I'm working on a Paperboy right now. After sanding the 2nd coat, I had some spots, mostly along the edges that might have very slightly swelled (like < 1/32") that sanded down to wood. I had the whole cabinet sanded very slick, but I rolled a 3rd light coat on, and a 4th over the areas that I sanded extensively. Tonight, I plan to sand the whole thing smooth again, not breaking through those areas where the work was needed. I'll follow the 220 with 400 grit, then vac with the brush attachment, then wipe with Naptha and a rag, then a tack cloth. I hope to get vinyl on it ASAP.

Oh, and I've done all of this with it upright, on a furniture dolly, so I can do one side, then spin it around. Unless you do really heavy coats, it shouldn't run. The key is to get those first couple of coats on, dry for a few days, then basically sand it all back down, or really thin, so you fill the voids and level the high spots.
 
If you were going to paint instead of applying vinyl would you consider your 4th coat of Kilz as your primer, or would you prime with something else atop the Kilz? I'm wanting to [air-] spray on black acrylic.

I'm working on a Paperboy right now. After sanding the 2nd coat, I had some spots, mostly along the edges that might have very slightly swelled (like < 1/32") that sanded down to wood. I had the whole cabinet sanded very slick, but I rolled a 3rd light coat on, and a 4th over the areas that I sanded extensively. Tonight, I plan to sand the whole thing smooth again, not breaking through those areas where the work was needed. I'll follow the 220 with 400 grit, then vac with the brush attachment, then wipe with Naptha and a rag, then a tack cloth. I hope to get vinyl on it ASAP.

Oh, and I've done all of this with it upright, on a furniture dolly, so I can do one side, then spin it around. Unless you do really heavy coats, it shouldn't run. The key is to get those first couple of coats on, dry for a few days, then basically sand it all back down, or really thin, so you fill the voids and level the high spots.
 
If you were going to paint instead of applying vinyl would you consider your 4th coat of Kilz as your primer, or would you prime with something else atop the Kilz? I'm wanting to [air-] spray on black acrylic.

I would sand my 4th coat super smooth and consider that the primer. Especially if applying paint on top, I wouldn't want any bare particle board showing through, or you'd see that through the paint I'd think. Would have to be careful not to cut through the primer to the wood when sanding/prepping for the paint.
 
I'd recommend an automotive building primer (you can get at autozone). Will take quite a few coats, but easy sand and smooth.. will come out fantastic with some patience.
 
high build primer is frickin awesome...

A ferw coats, sand smooth. A few more coats, sand smooth. USing that technique you can get stuff super smooth.

For whatever reason i always seem to revert back to automotive paints and products... they just work better and are more durable, imho.
 
I'd recommend an automotive building primer (you can get at autozone). Will take quite a few coats, but easy sand and smooth.. will come out fantastic with some patience.

You're absolutely right. If I were spraying the primer (too big of a mess, can't do it outside this time of year), I would go that route. Inside roller and hand sanding (kinda sucks), Kilz works very well. It actually sands very well, but the dust of doing it inside is rough.
 
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