Praise for the JROK Williams board...

LeeB99

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Just wanted to share my appreciation for the wonderful work that JROK did on the Williams replacement board. I installed one last night into my Stargate cabinet, and everything worked without any issues using the adapter harness that he provided/sold with it. Now my original Stargate boots immediately into Stargate, and with holding down both P1 and P2 start buttons for a couple of seconds, it will quickly switch out to Defender via the slick menu selection.

One big plus for me is the fact that I was able to pull the CPU/Ram board from my Stargate and install it in my Robotron cabinet. Even though the Robotron was working, it had intermittent resets from time to time that would reset all of the user settings. So, I would have to go through the menu system and set everything back to free play and all. Since I NEVER had any glitches with my Stargate board (and they are identical security roms) I was able to drop it in place of my old robotron CPU, and those resets are now be a thing of the past! I would get another JROK board for the robotron as well, but I would be too tempted to drill some "flap" buttons on the control panel. And I already have a Joust cocktail cabinet anyway, PLUS an Ultracade with Joust in it, PLUS even ANOTHER multiboard that has Joust in yet another cabinet. Do I REALLY need to be able to play joust in FOUR different cabinets??? : )

Great Job, JROK!

The ONLY gripe that I have about it was the means of mounting the board in the cabinet. The supplied standoffs and screws simply will not work with the original mounting points, and if you try to use the original mounting bolts, they are both too big to go through the holes on the new board and too short to be used with the supplied standoffs. The ONLY solution that I could come up with was to use the supplied standoff and screws to mount the board directly to the back door ABOVE the original metal panel. This caused the wiring harness to stick up a little too high to allow you to close the lower (swinging) back door panel, but after bending the wires in the harness down, it will clear the separator brace that runs across just above the door. This is a MINOR gripe, but I figured that it might help out others in the future to know what to look for...
 
+1

If I had a Williams cabinet this would be my first addition. Very slick.
 
Yep +1

I have one in my Robotron cabinet and it is aboslutely wonderful! And I certainly agree about the mounting aspect of the PCB. James is also a super cool dude and ALWAYS very helpful.
 
I have also installed one and LOVE it. My only issue is I need to swap out the micro switch joysticks with Wico leaf (if I can find a pair) joysticks.

BTW what did you guys use for the power supply? I used a old USB 5volt phone charger. Worked great.

80sarcade
Paul
 
Definitely a nice piece of work!

I wish there were more just like them (different games, obviously). I guess someone mentioned a while back that he was working on a different one - hope it turns out as good.
 
The ONLY gripe that I have about it was the means of mounting the board in the cabinet. The supplied standoffs and screws simply will not work with the original mounting points, and if you try to use the original mounting bolts, they are both too big to go through the holes on the new board and too short to be used with the supplied standoffs.

Hey Lee,

The mounting holes on the board aren't the correct size or spaced to fit the original mounting points on the metal sheet. You have to use the standoff feet, to mount.

You might want to try just a slightly longer screw with the original mounting points, or just cut down the top of the foot, as they are kind thick. It wouldn't need much until it bites on the original mounting.

Here's how I've mounted it. There was just enough thread with the original screws to grip the mounting points, granted there wasn't much tolerance there ;) Although if you shave a little off the bottom of the standoffs they'll definitely fit. These are shots of how I've mounted the board on an original plate, IIRC arcadenut mounted his with the original boards still in place in the cab, I think we had to reduce the foot depth.

EDIT:
It appears from looking at the screws.... there are two different types on the WMS boards I could find. One has a narrower thread at the end and the other has a very flat end. These flatter end ones will literally just fit into the metal plate with the thick standoffs. The other ones won't bite and will have to adjust the stand off.

Neither of this length, 1/2" will fit with the PCB in place, they'll need a longer screw or adjust the standoff.

Mounting pics with #6 3/4 screw for best results

mounting_part_1.jpg

mounting_part_2.jpg

mounting_part_3.jpg

mounting_part_4.jpg


- James
 
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