Powering my WG 25k7193 in my mame cabinet. Help?

darthphunk

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Hey guys.

I have a Dynamo cabinet I picked up for free. I was told the monitor worked fine. It was completely gutted with no art, so I decided to make it a Mame cabinet.

So I did some poking around and found this on Bob Roberts site:

http://www.therealbobroberts.net/buildit.html

I've followed this ALMOST exactly. The three differences are, I am not using an AC power switch (using a power strip for now), I am not using a switching power supply since I will have a PC in there to run games, and I am using 16ga wire instead of 18ga wire.

In fact, my setup is much closer to this... even the same cabinet and monitor...

http://codechunks.com/mame/

So I have a power cord connected to the AC line filter (with a 3amp fuse before the filter on the black wire), from the filter to a power distribution block, from the block to the Isolation Transformer and to the marquee lights (no light installed at the moment)

When I throw the power... the 3amp fuse blows. I also tried a 5amp fuse with no luck.

Is there something I am doing wrong? Should I not be using 16ga wire? Could my isolation transformer be bad? The AC line filter? The monitor? Where should I start looking?

Any help would be really really appreciated.

Thanks!
 
are you using slow blow fuses
iso may be bad
monitor may be bad
double check wires
did you hook up netural and hot correct (mabey switched ground with one of the other 2 wires)

meter you voltages and confirm that the iso is good
try hooking up the monitor in a known working game

since you are running a mame pc you really do not need that line filter
also on most games i have the fuse is after the line filter not before
 
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are you using slow blow fuses
iso may be bad
monitor may be bad
double check wires
did you hook up netural and hot correct (mabey switched ground with one of the other 2 wires)

meter you voltages and confirm that the iso is good

I triple checked all of my connections. I've used color coded wire for all connections. White neutral, black hot, green ground.

What should I be looking for from the Isolation Transformer?

I am not using slow blow fuses. Bob Roberts site says that 3amp fast blow are fine. Should I try slow blow?
 
Check the a/c connections on the line filter... I've seen a loose strand make contact with the metal case and blow fuses.
Fast or slow blow doesn't matter.... if you have a short either fuse will blow.
Make sure you kill power between these steps.
If the filter connections are ok, disconnect the primary winding of the isolation transformer and see if the fuse still pops when you power it up... if it does you have a bad filter... if not, power down and reconnect the primary winding and disconnect the secondary...power up... if the fuse pops your transformer is bad, if not you have a bad lamp fixture. Assuming all your wiring is good and these are the only components you have connected to the A/C.
 
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Remember, only the monitor power should be connected to the output (a.k.a. "secondary" ) of the isolation transformer.
 
Ok... so what I did was this.

I powered on with only power going to the AC line filter... and the fuse didn't blow.

I removed the marquee light wiring from the distribution block. connected the power to the distribution block, but removed the connection TO the monitor from the isolation transformer.

So it goes ACPOWER>AC FILTER> DISTRIBUTION> ISOLATION XFORMER... and it stops there.

The fuse blows when powered on this way.

I did pick up some slow blow fuses, but I haven't tried it yet. I just found a posting on another forum that the K7000 WG monitors SHOULD be using slow blow fuses.

Should I try the slow blow fuses first? Or is this a cut-and-dry "You need new isolation transformer" issue?
 
I doubt it's your iso. They go bad very very rarely. Take the line filter out of the equation.

Really?

As I said above... with just power going to the filter, the fuse is fine.

As soon as I go from the filter to the iso, thats when it blows.

I will try it without the filter.

FYI... a 3amp slow blow fuse blew right away.
 
If bypassing the filter and connecting directly to the ISO, should I just not worry about connecting the ground anywhere on the power cable?
 
Remember, only the monitor power should be connected to the output (a.k.a. "secondary" ) of the isolation transformer.

Not to thread hijack, but I picked up a cab where the wiring goes Wall -> ISO -> Monitor & marquee & fan. Should the marquee and fan on the other side of the ISO? I'm guessing "yes" based on what you said. FWIW everything seems to be working fine in the cab.
 
FYI...

I disconnected the ISO and the fuse does not pop... and the marquee lights fire up just fine.
 
Really?

As I said above... with just power going to the filter, the fuse is fine.

As soon as I go from the filter to the iso, thats when it blows.

I will try it without the filter.

FYI... a 3amp slow blow fuse blew right away.

Sorry about that, I misread. How about a picture of your iso set up the way it is?
 
Sorry about that, I misread. How about a picture of your iso set up the way it is?

Sorry if I repeat myself... I am copy/pasting from another forum...

Here is a pic of my setup.



Right now, the marquee lights are disconnected. The wires go off the screen, but the hot and neutral wires from the filter go to the distribution block, and in to the ISO. The blue and red wires go to the monitor (blue to nuetral, red to hot)

I blow the fuse though whether or not the blue and red wires are connected.

The fuse does not blow if the ISO is disconnected and the lights ARE connected. They work fine. As soon as the ISO is on the loop... pop goes the fuse.

Oh... and the green ground coming off the screw on the AC filter is connected to the screw on the right side of the ISO
 

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