Power Supply Question - Probably general but maybe Cruisin World specific

JLS2016

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Power Supply Question - Probably general but maybe Cruisin World specific

I need a power supply for Cruisin World upright. I'll probably end up needing one for NBA Jam in a TMNT cab as well. I'm new to this stuff. I've found this replacement for the Cruisin:

https://na.suzohapp.com/products/accessories/80-20167-0

Is this a decent/cheapest/easiest option? Or garbage? Or can I find cheaper? Looks like they also have a $50 min and not sure if they charge shipping.

Thank you!
 
I"d skip happ and go straight to ebay.

Find someone that sells that power supply and the regular switching power supplies as well, for the other games.

Check that or go to:

www.twistedquarter.com

they probably have both types.
 
I"d skip happ and go straight to ebay.

Find someone that sells that power supply and the regular switching power supplies as well, for the other games.

Check that or go to:

www.twistedquarter.com

they probably have both types.

The 150 watt ones that match the suzan happ one (if that matters) at Twisted are more expensive?

I believe I couldn't find a 150 watt on eBay
 
you'll have to verify what your DC output plug is: 9 pin or 12 pin. otherwise you'll wind up in a trick bag like that one novice guy with a Cruis'n World.

$50 minimum is also good. stock up on fuses or tools and stuff.
 
That's a 200 watt. The one I'm replacing and listed as a replacement for that game on happ is 150 watt. Does that matter?

The extra wattage means it will work on more power hungry boards, it'll also work on anything that uses less wattage, the reason this one is cheaper is because it's more common since it will work in about anything. It's also a knock off and not an official 'Happ" power supply but it works great, we use them all the time. You need to confirm that the connectors and size is the same, I'm pretty sure it is on a Crusin' World (I'm working on one right now and this is what's in mine). Some of the 150 watt ones were rectangular and mounted a little different but the Midway games had a bracket in the bottom on top of the power distribution that uses a square power supply like this (but 150w).
 
The extra wattage means it will work on more power hungry boards, it'll also work on anything that uses less wattage, the reason this one is cheaper is because it's more common since it will work in about anything. It's also a knock off and not an official 'Happ" power supply but it works great, we use them all the time. You need to confirm that the connectors and size is the same, I'm pretty sure it is on a Crusin' World (I'm working on one right now and this is what's in mine). Some of the 150 watt ones were rectangular and mounted a little different but the Midway games had a bracket in the bottom on top of the power distribution that uses a square power supply like this (but 150w).

Should I just post a picture of the connectors that's on the current power supply?
 
Peter Chou's don't have those outlets I think. Midway never used them anyway, they had their own specific block for power routing. I keep forgetting if World had an isolation transformer still or not.

additionally, you have the 9 pin molex variety, so you don't need anything silly.

the AT sized power supplies were 200W. the larger XT style were 150W. either mode was probably excessive for this game, they just started using the box style when they got away from the isos. the newer power blocks have no fuses, so the circuit breaking is built into the box unit.
 
Was there anything plugged into that top a/c plug on the back of it?

I don't know. When I bought the game from non-arcade people... the power supply they said was bad and was sitting in the coin box ;)

We plugged it in with a spare cord I had and metered it getting varied results. The 5 & 12 voltages wouldn't match up well and the adjustment dial was very shady mostly not doing crap.
 
Peter Chou's don't have those outlets I think. Midway never used them anyway, they had their own specific block for power routing. I keep forgetting if World had an isolation transformer still or not.

additionally, you have the 9 pin molex variety, so you don't need anything silly.

the AT sized power supplies were 200W. the larger XT style were 150W. either mode was probably excessive for this game, they just started using the box style when they got away from the isos. the newer power blocks have no fuses, so the circuit breaking is built into the box unit.

I did see an old transformer in the bottom of the cab...

So are you recommending I go with that 200 watt or what?

Thanks
 
I did see an old transformer in the bottom of the cab...

So are you recommending I go with that 200 watt or what?

Thanks

Let me clear all of this up for you. I have repaired dozens of Cruisin World Games over the years. Starting the early 90's the arcade industry finally started moving to a standardized power supply for most games. A few companies have variations of this standard. Atari and Sega being the ones the come to mind. However Midway, Konami, and most of the rest of the industry went to a 9 pin output voltage connector.

A larger rated power supply is always better in the long run as switching power supplies lose capacity as they age due to wear of the electronic components. You can put an underrated supply in a arcade game and unless you have severely underrated the wattage it will work but the life of the supply will be reduced.

Now keep in mind I am repairing games that are in a commercial environment. Most of the time they will run at least 8 to 24 hours a day 7 days a week. Most collectors usually do not run their games in this manner.

The supply that I recommend you consider is the Happ Controls model. I buy these in large quantities and are very happy with them. Do not be confused by the picture. This is a universal supply. It can be hooked up to a remote on/off switch or controlled by the power switch on the back like a personal computer has. It also has two 9 pin connectors but you will only use one in Crusin World. They have identical pin outs so you can not get them wrong.

https://na.suzohapp.com/products/power_supplies/80-0002-10

I show it selling for $38.

One other thing. All the Crusin boards are real fussy about their 5 volts. You need to be real close to 5 volts as measured on the logic board or the game will randomly reset. The cool thing about this supply is you have an external 5 volt adjustment to dial in an correct 5 volts. Not all supplies have this feature and it is very important to Crusin world.

I have installed 100's of these supplies over the years and like most electronics some do fail over time. But the reliability of these supplies are much higher than some.

-roger-
 
Let me clear all of this up for you. I have repaired dozens of Cruisin World Games over the years. Starting the early 90's the arcade industry finally started moving to a standardized power supply for most games. A few companies have variations of this standard. Atari and Sega being the ones the come to mind. However Midway, Konami, and most of the rest of the industry went to a 9 pin output voltage connector.

A larger rated power supply is always better in the long run as switching power supplies lose capacity as they age due to wear of the electronic components. You can put an underrated supply in a arcade game and unless you have severely underrated the wattage it will work but the life of the supply will be reduced.

Now keep in mind I am repairing games that are in a commercial environment. Most of the time they will run at least 8 to 24 hours a day 7 days a week. Most collectors usually do not run their games in this manner.

The supply that I recommend you consider is the Happ Controls model. I buy these in large quantities and are very happy with them. Do not be confused by the picture. This is a universal supply. It can be hooked up to a remote on/off switch or controlled by the power switch on the back like a personal computer has. It also has two 9 pin connectors but you will only use one in Crusin World. They have identical pin outs so you can not get them wrong.

https://na.suzohapp.com/products/power_supplies/80-0002-10

I show it selling for $38.

One other thing. All the Crusin boards are real fussy about their 5 volts. You need to be real close to 5 volts as measured on the logic board or the game will randomly reset. The cool thing about this supply is you have an external 5 volt adjustment to dial in an correct 5 volts. Not all supplies have this feature and it is very important to Crusin world.

I have installed 100's of these supplies over the years and like most electronics some do fail over time. But the reliability of these supplies are much higher than some.

-roger-




Ok, cool. To be clear, if I keep this game it will go into a 9am-10pm commercial arcade.

The NBA Jam (in a Konami TMNT cab) needs replacing as well. If I tap on it with my hand the voltage drops out and it doesn't appear to be the wiring. Guess I should get one matching that with a higher voltage rating while I'm at it.
 
TMNT cabinets had fuses on the +5 and +12 lines. these are almost 30 years old and are probably corroded to the point that you're losing a lot of voltage across them. undo the end coming off the JAMMA harness and connect it directly to the power supply instead.

modern power supplies have overcurrent protection built in, eliminating the need for the fuses.

I replaced all the power supplies in our arcade with Happ PowerPros, because they ALL came with crappy off brand ones. some were bad enough that games would fail rom tests in post.
 
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