LUCKYMAN
New member
well test the joystick harness connection at p106 /pin 1 and p103/ pin1.. both have +5 pins on the CPU and see what your getting there!!
Power Supply Question for Atari?
- Thread starter machfelon
- Start date
well test the joystick harness connection at p106 /pin 1 and p103/ pin1.. both have +5 pins on the CPU and see what your getting there!!
i think its pretty typical for 720s to burn the power connectors up. Its been suggested above that you check those connections. If the housing is brown looking, and the pins aren't nice and shiny, there's your problem. Repin and replace the headers. Your losing almost a volt somewhere. I'd say its a 95% chance that the loss is occuring where the power enters the pcb.
Deal with that first, and i bet your joystick issues go away.
Deal with that first, and i bet your joystick issues go away.
I agree with the thoughts already expressed regarding any loss at a volt or above is cause for concern and something is causing the loss. Midway games are notorious about killing their connectors (I realize this is an Atari title), but so were certain Atari titles like Dig Dug and Centipede.
Resistance is not your friend.
Good luck.
Scott C.
Resistance is not your friend.
Good luck.
Scott C.
OP
OP
machfelon
Well-known member
The pins on the board themselve seemed fine. I cleaned them all off. The harness connectors were somewhat "dirty" though.
If im losing almost a volt what would the harm be turning up the PS past the 5.5 mark since Im at 4.5 at the PCB now. If say I turned it up to 5.9 then in theory Id be at 4.9 on the board right where it should be. Would this be harmful to anything else? Obviously that would not be the correct way to fix but would it work since Id still be at the right voltage on the board.
joeycuda
Well-known member
No offense guy, but you're not getting it. Here's some good information to read:
http://www.pinrepair.com/connect/
You can't just clean them as you can't reverse time and reverse the wear on the plating. Also, the pins become less 'springy' and are only rated for so many wipes. If any have ever gotten warm, you can't just clean them. You'll be fighting the same battle forever.
OP
OP
machfelon
Well-known member
I appreciate the link but that did not answer my question above. I realize that stuff goes bad and you can replace this and replace that... blah blah blah. I am not trying to make this 720 fully restored. I dont care if it has some minor issues and Im willing to "jerrry rig" it if that works. My games are not played everyday nor are they on all the time. Some games sit weeks on end without being turned on. This one I simply want functional enough to play a few games a couple times a month.
So without replacing all the connectors would this be a temporary fix possibly or would it damage other components.
joeycuda
Well-known member
Good luck with the game.
OP
OP
machfelon
Well-known member
Nice sarcastic response.
Not sure if you read my previous posts about being a "NOOB" when it comes to repairs. Hell I just bought my first multi-meter yesterday. Replacing connectors etc with no electronics background would be kind of difficult. Im not trying to disregard what you said or disregard your suggestion but its like speaking chinese to me with my limited electronics background. Trying to learn.
Alright, i'm going to post one more time since i realize you are a noob.
Replace the power pins and repin the connector. Anything else just isn't going to fix your problem.
Turning the voltage up more at the power supply will equal more current, which equals more heat (that volt you are losing is turning to heat - at the connector), which equals more cooking of said connector. The only right way to repair it is to replace the connector.
If you want a temporary stop gap measure, run a 16 guage wire from the +5v test point on the pcb to the +5v terminal on the switcher. Run a second 16 guage wire from the ground test point on the pcb to the dc ground on the switcher. Make sure you turn the voltage down before you turn the game back on - anything more than about 5.25v at the chips on the pcb can and will damage them.
that will take some of the load off of the power connector, but, you still need to replace it to prevent it from further cooking itself.
Replace the power pins and repin the connector. Anything else just isn't going to fix your problem.
Turning the voltage up more at the power supply will equal more current, which equals more heat (that volt you are losing is turning to heat - at the connector), which equals more cooking of said connector. The only right way to repair it is to replace the connector.
If you want a temporary stop gap measure, run a 16 guage wire from the +5v test point on the pcb to the +5v terminal on the switcher. Run a second 16 guage wire from the ground test point on the pcb to the dc ground on the switcher. Make sure you turn the voltage down before you turn the game back on - anything more than about 5.25v at the chips on the pcb can and will damage them.
that will take some of the load off of the power connector, but, you still need to replace it to prevent it from further cooking itself.
If the edge connector is looking corroded try tinning the pins with solder. Melt a solder bubble on the pin (of the edge connector) and wipe it away immediately with a water moistened tissue. This should leave a flat, shiny, good conducting pin. This process done correctly will diminish voltage loss at the connector.
Make sure that the female connector has it's pins bowing to the center instead of crushed to the side.
Make sure that the female connector has it's pins bowing to the center instead of crushed to the side.
