Power Supply Gurus, I need you.

AllenBomber

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i picked up a Super Breakout machine that wasn't functioning. I pulled open the cab, and someone botched the wiring at some point. It looks like they tried to drop a different power supply in there, but rather than using molex connectors, they just jammed wires into connectors. I tested the power supply and it seems to work, but I've got some interesting results. The 12 pin output terminal of this power supply gives me the following in reference to case ground:
1. 30VAC
2. 6VAC
3. 19VAC
4. 26.5VAC
5. 0VAC
6. 27VAC
7. 9.5VAC
8. 6VAC
9. 14VAC
10. 22.5VAC
11. 4VAC
12. 4VAC
Now if I call pin 11 my ground, I get different numbers, and a DC output on pin 12.
1. 36VAC
2. 10VAC
3. 16VAC
4. 32.5VAC
5. 3.5VAC
6. 25.75VAC
7. 7.5VAC
8. 3.75VAC
9. 19.5VAC
10. 19.5VAC
12. 14.5VDC

The game came with a manual, and it looks to me like the power called for by the board is 16.5V CT, 16.5VAC, 25VAC, and 25V CT, and +10V Unreg. I assume that CT stands for Continuous (DCV) but I'm a bit iffy on what they mean when they call for +10V Unregulated. Also, to me it looks like the power supply I got with this cabinet won't work because I don't have anything close to 25VDC, but please correct me if I'm wrong. Can anyone point me to a power supply that would work?
 
A/C wires run in pairs. They don't use a common ground, so you have to measure the two wires that go together, a schematic would reallllly help on this.
 
A/C wires run in pairs. They don't use a common ground, so you have to measure the two wires that go together, a schematic would reallllly help on this.

I see that I've got pairs for all of the AC lines in my schematic. You're saying that I need X amount of potential difference between the two lines? For example, there are 2 red lines on board pins 4 and D respectively that call for 16.5VAC. I could use my reference ground (pin 11) from the power supply, and power supply pin 3 to create my (nearly) 16.5VAC potential between these two lines?
 
Basically, 4 and D should measure 16.5v between them, yes. All of this would be on A/C too, don't try to measure dc or anything. None of your measurements really tell me much, you can't get a measurement that means anything off the case ground or pin 11 that you picked, that's all irrelevant. A picture of the power supply would be great maybe we could figure it out off of that, just look for labels or try to see where two wires would pair up.
 
Basically, 4 and D should measure 16.5v between them, yes. All of this would be on A/C too, don't try to measure dc or anything. None of your measurements really tell me much, you can't get a measurement that means anything off the case ground or pin 11 that you picked, that's all irrelevant. A picture of the power supply would be great maybe we could figure it out off of that, just look for labels or try to see where two wires would pair up.

Thanks for your help. The reason I chose those pins specifically is that they're attached to the supply's large capacitor. I've got pictures. What concerned me about your advice is that as per the diagram which I've included and circled, it looked to me like these lines just bridged together. Thats why I never would have guessed I needed a potential difference between the two lines.
 

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O.K., looking at your schematics, I believe you're right, 4 and D come from the same source which is why they're bridged together. A/C wires need a to and a from, a black and a white, a hot and a neutral though to work, so I'm thinking maybe the CCT is the return of the A/C? Try measuring your voltage between 1 and 4 for instance.
 
No wait, i see it. The two that are bridged together are right next to two others that are bridged together. Between 3 and 4 you should have 16.5, as well as between c and d. Test from Red/White and Red and you should get 16.5. Same with the others.
 
You have a standard Atari Power Brick, and it only puts out +10.3vdc (unreg), 6.3vac, 36vac, and monitor voltages dependent on which type of monitor is being powered.

You are not going to find 16vac at all.

CT stands for Center Tap.
 
It's just a standard atari power block, the number you gave was for the transformer. It should have the same wiring as a pole position, Gauntlet, etc. as far as the power brick goes. I don't think that you're going to have your right voltages there, and if they ran 120v through the breakout board it probably smoked it.

Here's some pole position schematics

http://pdf.textfiles.com/manuals/ARCADE/K-R/Pole Position (SP-218 5th Printing) [Schematic%20Package]%20[English].pdf

You can see the 15 pins they have coming out of that connector on your power setup.
 
Thanks Dokert.

Allen did they just have the wires stuck down in that molex???

Yeah, they did. There was a lot of botched wiring in this thing. They bypassed the cab switches, replaced the rotary game selector with a toggle switch, added a credit button on the coin door... Yeah, she got a little molested before I got my hands on it. It looks like they blew one fuse in the supply at some time or another (one new replacement, F2 specifically), but it doesn't look like they ever finished their wiring job, so I still have some high hopes that the board is functional. It isn't burnt or anything, so maybe it'll work. I wish I knew someone in the Denver area with a super breakout cab I could drop my board into for the sake of testing.
 
I don't know what the hell is wrong with me tonight, but I just realized that Super Breakout is of course an Atari game, lol. *sigh. I don't know what i'm thinking.

Basically they took the original atari power brick out and put one in it out of a pole position or something. The new one like Dokert said doesn't send out the right voltages, it's possible that they sent 120 volts through the breakout board.

Here's the manual, and it shows that one that's supposed to be in it.

http://pdf.textfiles.com/manuals/ARCADE/S-Z/Super Breakout (TM-118 1st Printing) [Op-Maint-Serv-Parts]%20[English].pdf

You've already got that, but maybe somebody will see it and have the right power supply for you. I see what's going on now, just wish I could be of more help.
 
Thanks guys. I'll put something up in the wanted ads. Maybe look for someone who's willing to trade for the standard Atari supply. After all, it does me no good right now. From what you guys have said, the standard supply seems to go in a lot more games, so maybe someone will be interested.
 
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