Powder Coating?

LordOfDoubleDee

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Would like to get some thoughts on powder coating:

Found a place here locally that does powder coating - I personally think it looks great - a few questions:

Typically the items on a cab that need/should be powder coated are the metal pieces - correct?

These would be pieces such as the coin door, marquee holder, metal vents on cabinet back?

I've never done this before so, what I understand is that the parts get covered with a type of plastic which is then heated?

On my local company's website they advertise many different finishes/textures - any recommendations on what is typical for let's say a coin door?

Any advice on preparing my parts for the process? Stripper, wire brush, sand blasting? Or, is it possible to pay to have them strip the parts? What has your experience been?

A lot of questions I know, new to the hobby and trying to figure this out, thanks!
 
Other people can give you all the details and tips about powder coating...and I will not argue that the results are really great.

However, don't underestimate the power of "good enough". Because I've been able to achieve powder-coat-like results with Rust-oleum's Satin Enamel Spray. And at the fraction of the cost of powder coating.

Rust-Oleum Satin Enamel Spray

Powder coating only seems to be worth it when you have a boat load of parts to get done all at once.
 
Good point, rolling over to the powder coating shop with a single coin door might be a fail :) They may just sent me back home - and/or just not cost effective.

Want to tell me more about your method with the spray can?

Thanks!

Other people can give you all the details and tips about powder coating...and I will not argue that the results are really great.

However, don't underestimate the power of "good enough". Because I've been able to achieve powder-coat-like results with Rust-oleum's Satin Enamel Spray. And at the fraction of the cost of powder coating.

Rust-Oleum Satin Enamel Spray

Powder coating only seems to be worth it when you have a boat load of parts to get done all at once.
 
Yes, generally speaking powder coating would be done on the metal pieces of the cabinet as you have called out.

Texture: most shops will have examples of the textures they can do, my advice would be to try and match the existing texture on your pieces.

Prep: for the shops I have used there is no prep required as they will most likely media blast as part of their process, sometimes doing this ahead of time will cut some cost, but it's worth asking before you go through the trouble. For a while I was media blasting all of my stuff prior to dropping it off only to find I was only saving a few dollars.

For me, powder coating is cheap enough that it isn't worth my time to try and rattle can my stuff.
 
Oh, and I guess my idea - if I was going to do powder coating - would be to get everything I need powder coated all prepped and delivered at once - from every game - would make more sense.
 
+1 for Rustoleum 2x Ultra Cover paints. I've used them on countless metal pieces, and they work great. You can get an excellent finish, with no drips, etc, pretty easily.

I've often painted right over some pieces, like Atari doors and metalwork, which have that sort of spatter texture. If the rusty spots aren't too bad, you can sand just those spots down, then paint over the entire piece, to keep most of the texture.

But yes, powdercoating is superior, if you want to spend the cash.
 
For me, powder coating is cheap enough that it isn't worth my time to try and rattle can my stuff.

Same here. There's nothing better than dropping off some rusty coin doors or control panel with a stubborn, beat up CPO (or adhesive) on it. Then picking it up a week later looking brand new.

It's also worth mentioning that powdercoating is MUCH more durable and resilient to chipping & scratches.

As far as prep, my shop does the prep (it's included.) But you will want to ask the shop about it. Some places charge extra, some outsource it, some include it, and some don't offer it at all.

I have a good relationship with my local powder coater and will never go back to painting metal pieces again.

Powdercoating your parts will spoil you. Trust me.
 
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When I restored the control panel on my Pac-Man. I just used the Rust-Oleum Satin enamel. Striped the panel down to bare metal so it was nice and smooth. Then sprayed a grey primer. (not sure the primer was even necessary because I had to sand that smooth anyway) Then sprayed about 3 coats of the Satin black on there. (First couple of coats were pretty light)Also sprayed the metal portions of the joystick. CPO was from Phoenix Arcade BTW.

I was very happy with the results for how little I paid. Sure, I had to put in a little work but it's not like it was that bad. Again, not trying to talk you out of powder coating. Just giving you some food for thought. Restoration cost can really add up and this is definitely an area you can save a few bucks if you are so inclined.

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Sure, you can get great results with putting the time in, but what's your time worth? When I factor that in, it's always worth the price of powdercoating. Of course, like auto mechanics, every shop has very different rates. I got quotes from about 30 different shops before I found mine.
 
Sure, you can get great results with putting the time in, but what's your time worth? When I factor that in, it's always worth the price of powdercoating. Of course, like auto mechanics, every shop has very different rates. I got quotes from about 30 different shops before I found mine.


Sometimes it's enjoyable just doing it yourself.

(Plus you don't have to leave the house, or wait for someone else's schedule, etc.)


Nice job on that stick, Yeti! I might have to try that, as I usually leave my Pac bases bare...
 
Sometimes it's enjoyable just doing it yourself.

(Plus you don't have to leave the house, or wait for someone else's schedule, etc.)


Nice job on that stick, Yeti! I might have to try that, as I usually leave my Pac bases bare...
True, but the OP is asking about powder coating, not painting.
 
Other people can give you all the details and tips about powder coating...and I will not argue that the results are really great.

However, don't underestimate the power of "good enough". Because I've been able to achieve powder-coat-like results with Rust-oleum's Satin Enamel Spray. And at the fraction of the cost of powder coating.

Rust-Oleum Satin Enamel Spray

Powder coating only seems to be worth it when you have a boat load of parts to get done all at once.

I have also found this last part to be true. It's like bringing a pinball playfield to an auto painter to get clear coated. It cost about the same to do two or three playfields as it does one. The cost for them is in the setup and the time there taking to stop and complete your (based on there daily work load) small task. So I pays big time for you to have a bunch of work for them to do. To them its still nothing.
Thanks
Blake
 
For me, if it a piece that isn't going to be touched much, painting is fine, like coin doors and marquee brackets, but something like the control panel on my Ms Pacman where it isn't all covered with an overlay, I am going to have it powder coated as the constant friction from your hands is going to wear the paint off in no time.
 
Would like to get some thoughts on powder coating:

Typically the items on a cab that need/should be powder coated are the metal pieces - correct?

These would be pieces such as the coin door, marquee holder, metal vents on cabinet back?

I've never done this before so, what I understand is that the parts get covered with a type of plastic which is then heated?

On my local company's website they advertise many different finishes/textures - any recommendations on what is typical for let's say a coin door?

Any advice on preparing my parts for the process? Stripper, wire brush, sand blasting? Or, is it possible to pay to have them strip the parts? What has your experience been?

A lot of questions I know, new to the hobby and trying to figure this out, thanks!

Got all of my powdercoating tools (powdercoating system, sandblasting cabinet, 70grit aluminum blast media, shopvac for dust extraction) from Harbor Freight.

It's dramatically cheaper but still an investment. Google mods for the HF sandblasting cabinet too, I recommend you do a few mods. I modded my cabinet with halogen lights and I sprayed the interior with rubberized sealant to make it air tight. Otherwise the lighting absolutely sucks, and dust/debris will leak out of the cabinet when you're sandblasting. Plus the gloves wear out fast! I was using my SBC on the weekends for about 2 months when one day I realized I was sandblasting my finger tips. I don't recall the glove brand but I picked up a replacement kit on Amazon for cheap and they still are intact 3 years later. As for powder I buy from PowderByThePound. It's cheap and it works great. And then I found an used kitchen oven on CL for baking the parts. You're going to need a dedicated oven for this part, once you use it for powdercoating you should never use it for food again.

I recommend watching YouTube videos on the proper method for preparing, spraying and baking your parts, it really depends upon the metal...
 
Wow, great info - super, super helpful - I will call around and get prices. Love the idea of powder coating but the work done on the Pac-man did look fantastic. I agree watching some YouTube vids on powder should help as well - just to understand the process better.
 
I am going to mirror what jimbodeanny said a bit and say powder coating is the way to go, especially on black parts. If you do not mind the additional cost, most shops can do all sorts of colors.

The trick with powder coating is batches. At the shop that I have used the price of one small part is very close to doing 30. So get every bracket, coin door, control panel, etc you can and do them all at once.

As far as paint vs. powder coating on that pac cp, my concern would be how it stands up to you or one of your guests playing that with a watch on their wrist.

To the OPs questions:

- Yes, powder coating is primarily for metal. It involves high heat to bake the finish on.
- Anything that is only metal
- Yes, they cover the metal with a thin layer of material which is then baked on.
- I would try and match the finish of the original. If you do not have a clean original to compare, pick one you like.
- Talk to the shop about prepping. Most shops will media blast and prep the parts for you.
 
I've had a bunch of things powder coated.

As mentioned, the cost is the setup (and clean up). So if you only have a few parts and you're doing a common color like satin black, tell them you can wait until they have a batch of parts in that color. It may take a couple weeks that way, but the price should be a bit lower since they aren't setting up everything for your one part.

Also, I've had no problems with most Williams/Cinematronics style coin doors. However, over/under coin doors are made of an especially cheap metal alloy ("pot metal") which tends to warp when heated. I've had doors do this at two different powder coating shops. One cracked when I tried to straighten it out. So the only way I would do these now is creating a wooden frame (plywood will work) for the door frame to keep it straight.

Powder coating looks a lot better than paint IMO. You won't be disappointed in the results.
 
I send parts off weekly here at the shop, they pick up drop off every Tuesday.

There is zero preparation you should have to do. Simply pick the color and texture from examples they provide..

Over the last 17 years, every powder coating or chrome shop we used would sandblast and treat the metal before refinishing
 
Powdercoating is the way to go. I liked it so much, I bought a small used 30x30 lab oven, eastwood powder coat gun and a blasting cab...I powdercoat just about everything I can fit in there. The best thing about it, is that I can have a part I can handle in an hour.

Its definitely cheaper to take your parts stripped. Media blasted is preferred. Like Captain said, slipping your common color parts in with a bigger runs may take longer but its much cheaper.
 
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