Powder coating

I just use semigloss black, but that is only because I am not yet equiped to powdercoat parts. Powdercoating is so much better and durable than paint.
 
I use powdercoating on every part I can (even down to the carriage bolts) as I really like the results. Very durable and when you do all your parts at once it can be very inexpensive. I simply take it to an automotive sandblasting/powder coating place and they take the old rusty parts, as-is (albit with any dents pounded out), and I get a seemingly brand new part back. Just take the time to look at all the finish options for the best possible match to the original texture.

CoinDoor.jpg
 
I use powdercoating on every part I can (even down to the carriage bolts) as I really like the results. Very durable and when you do all your parts at once it can be very inexpensive. I simply take it to an automotive sandblasting/powder coating place and they take the old rusty parts, as-is (albit with any dents pounded out), and I get a seemingly brand new part back. Just take the time to look at all the finish options for the best possible match to the original texture.

CoinDoor.jpg

What did you use to re-attach the plate on the front of the coin door? I found something locally that is kind of like a Rivet, but I haven't had a chance to try it yet.
 
What did you use to re-attach the plate on the front of the coin door? I found something locally that is kind of like a Rivet, but I haven't had a chance to try it yet.

I tried to find a rivet solution myself but I couldn't find a practical option for that. What I settled on was 2-56 x 1/4 machine screws and hex nuts that I found at Radio Shack. The only small difference is that they are slotted. You can see in the picture that I just turned all the slots the same way and between that and being so small the slots all but disappear. Best part is you don't even have to use adheisive on the plate so if it gets scratched it's an easy replace.
 
I tried to find a rivet solution myself but I couldn't find a practical option for that. What I settled on was 2-56 x 1/4 machine screws and hex nuts that I found at Radio Shack. The only small difference is that they are slotted. You can see in the picture that I just turned all the slots the same way and between that and being so small the slots all but disappear. Best part is you don't even have to use adheisive on the plate so if it gets scratched it's an easy replace.

Well, the solution I thought I found didn't work, as they were too big for the Coin Door holes, but I will go back to the Nut & Bolt place on Monday to find smaller versions. I think these will work really well if I can find them small enough. From the outside they will look original.

If I find one that fits well and holds, I'll post pics.
 
I'll hopefully have the logo plate rivet solution soon. I'm working with a company to locate them now.

As for the powder coating solution, it's definitely the way to go. I've just started a business relationship with a gent who owns a sandblasting/powdercoating shop. We're thinking of doing mail order refinishing for people who don't have that kind of service near them. We're located in Southern Vermont for anyone that's thinking about having this done.
 
Re:

Did you have to take apart your coin door off the hinges when you got it powder coated?
 
Did you have to take apart your coin door off the hinges when you got it powder coated?

If you can, I recommend you do. You'll have to break the paint from the hinges (by opening and closing them) as there is no way to keep the paint from inside the hinge.

Some coin doors, the hinge is welded or riveted to it, so you can't take it off.

You can't powder coat anything with Bondo on it either as it won't survive the process.
 
awesome

finally got my stuff powder coated and wow they look awesome ill never spray anything again. and for the price def worth it. i have a guy close to me and he charged me $100.00
for three coin doors and three sets of top and bottom rails for my dragon's lair and space ace. and all the bolts.
thanks guys for the input
 
Has anybody had any of their beat game parts re powder coated or do you guys just spray them mat black paint.

to add to everyone else's opinion..

I have used rustoleum texture paint (black) with good results..

recently I had a coin door that was just bad.. worse than most, and I couldn't get it even close w/ it..

so I tried the same thing , but in a new black and white texture spray paint I found by rustoleum... maybe not perfect black.. but I was "very" impressed how well it covered and filled....

I recommend trying it... it was so nice , I did'nt mind it wasn't pure black but had the white specks in it... it really covered well...
 
If you can, definately get metal parts powdercoated.
My cabs C/P was SO badly rusted & pitted that even after the Powdercoaters did their best, it was still pitted. I then had to use automotive filler and complete the job by hand. I eventually had to finish the coindoor & frame etc as the C/P was so smooth .....

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007-10.jpg
 
If you can, definately get metal parts powdercoated.
My cabs C/P was SO badly rusted & pitted that even after the Powdercoaters did their best, it was still pitted. I then had to use automotive filler and complete the job by hand. I eventually had to finish the coindoor & frame etc as the C/P was so smooth .....

034.jpg


007-10.jpg

nice job though that looks sweet. powder coating is the shit
 
Hey Pacman how did you do the front of that CP for that cabaret. It looks brand new. Ive got a buddy thats going to repaint the pacman and ghosts on but trying to see if there is an easier way.
 
If you hunt around you can find the correct rivets and tools.

I used to do that when I was restoring 1960s Corvettes as a hobby. Just drilled out the rivets and replaced them so it look just like it came from the factory. Takes a little practice to get it exactly right, but is not that hard.
 
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