Post-capkit Sanyo 20EZ width issue

CakeLancelot

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Hello all,

I did my first cap kit on my Sanyo 20EZ today, I used the arcadepartsandrepair deluxe kit, as well as a replacement filter cap.

Before, the monitor had severe horizontal blooming/ghosting when displaying colors on dark/black backgrounds. After the cap kit that issue is resolved and picture looks decent, other that it being really offset horizontally. I tried tweaking the H center pot and that did move the image, but not nearly enough to correct it and make the entire image visible.

I double checked all caps had the correct polarity, and reflowed some joints that I thought might need it. No change sadly.

I then did some research and it was looking like adjusting the width coil could fix the issue. I don't have monitor adjustment tools, so I 3D printed a 2.5mm allen wrench with PLA to try to safely adjust it. Rotating it clockwise and counterclockwise did not appear to have any effect, but I'm not sure if that's the fault of the coil or tool, as I've never tweaked a width coil.

Any pointers on what I should be trying next? The pattern in the attached images is being displayed by a CraftyMech TPG. I have the monitor attached to a spare Nintendo isolation transformer which is then plugged to wall power. B+ is reading at about 107V.

Thanks in advance!
 

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You guys were dead on, I had positive sync hooked up rather than negative - now it looks much better.
PXL_20251117_195621060.jpg

I'm still not able to move the image completely to the right side, there's maybe a few centimeters of blank space left, the HCENTER pot won't go any further. Can I adjust this some other way?


Also for reference, first picture is how I had it hooked up initially, second is how it should be.

PXL_20251117_195255982.MP.jpgPXL_20251117_195308828.MP.jpg
 
I'm still not able to move the image completely to the right side, there's maybe a few centimeters of blank space left, the HCENTER pot won't go any further. Can I adjust this some other way?
See how it looks in the game.

Tpg can give you a "false alignment" as its timings are different than the game. Sanyo 20EZs can be a headache with this alignment stuff. Games like donkey kong which would have used a 20EZ have position adjustments on the game board. I typically do calibration (except for convergence) outside of the game because of this. Brightness, size, and color varies from game to game so there is no use trying to dial it in on the bench.
 
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