Possible to touching up a silkscreen'd bezel??

msignor

Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2011
Messages
567
Reaction score
4
Location
Sparta, New Jersey
Hey guys,

Is there any way for me to touch up a bezel that was silkscreened? When my Centipede fell over it looks like one of the staples holding the cardboard scratched up a little chunk of the blue border...

I would like to try and fix it as it urks me... and I also would like to prevent it from becoming a potential point of more severe flaking as time goes on..

Anyone do this before?

EDIT: just noticed by title typo :-(
 
most Atari glass holds up pretty well from flaking unlike alot of the others.
but "puddle" on some testors model paint on the back side and youll be good to go.
 
most Atari glass holds up pretty well from flaking unlike alot of the others.
but "puddle" on some testors model paint on the back side and youll be good to go.

Does dabbing on a little Krylon Triple-thick first help the paint stick at all? I've got the same basic issue with a few glass bezels.
 
nice resto
though I dont think Id recomend LQ for glass cleaning when there are much safer chems out there for that. one drop of that on the print side and your touching up mire than you started with.
NAPTHA is your better friend for that.
Also not sure Id recomend a water based paint either.
water and moisture have been known to make the orginal screened ink lift and seperate from the glass to begin with.

the modela testors an acrylic enamel can be easily wipe with thinner if your trying to mix and max a color.

As far as previous question about using a clear for better stick really not sure.
proably still best to hit that triple thick on the back when your finished.
 
I doubt triple thick will make the paint stick better but I've read of people using triple thick first to seal the original art and then applying touch ups next. The triple thick acts as a buffer in case you mess up and allows you a chance to clean up without affecting the original art. When finished coating with triple thick can help seal the restoration work.
 
Unlike the OP the damage you touched up was in the black portion, so that made it a lot easier. He will have to color match.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

funny you say that, I was just going to post back on here on how I color match? is it even possible with the model paints?
 
Unlike the OP the damage you touched up was in the black portion, so that made it a lot easier. He will have to color match.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

Unfortunately, the only bezel touchup I documented on my site was very easy with all the missing portions in the black as you said. But I've touched up many, and some were really nasty-missing up to about 20% of the graphics (like my Galaga). It just takes more time, color matching, and such. For missing Pac-Man dots, I use masking tape and a leather hole punch that you can buy cheap at Harbor Freight. For sharp lines, I use only 3M vinyl tape. Works great on glass. I've used the same paints and techniques on really badly worn pin boards too and I have to show most people where the repair was. My Gorgar board had completely fried areas, but you won't see them anymore.

I don't think there are really any secrets; great prep work, good masking tape, tiny brushes, a steady hand, and LOTS of time are the main requirements.
 
I gave up on coinopspace alot longer than that.

and to the other previously posted comment
I STRONGLY suggest not use any type of tape on the back side
as there's a good chance you'll lift more original paint right off the glass.

if you must one trick would be to "de-tack" the tape first
like on you hand to eliminate most of the stick then lightly placing it.

another tip for touching up glass, reverse side, non back lit is to "puddle"
the paint and not brush stroke.
 
:) Wow you guys are lifesavers..Lol waiting for some things to arrive in mail for some scratch repair on my Bezel Glass so in meantime tried touching up a small scratch in the upper left corner of my Bezel decal with some "Acryllic"
paint. Lol unfortunatley it looks good going on when you apply it on the backside of the Bezel, but turn it around and view from the front, and it becomes transparent. Not good.
I didn't think of giving the Testors paint a try. I Put it on in puddles as you said and used a q-tip. Looks good as new!!
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom