Portable JAMMA Board and Monitor Testing Workbench

EagleTG

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Been working on this one for a bit... off and on. I wanted a completely portable, mostly self-contained, and ruggedized testing "workbench" for working on JAMMA boards and monitors.

I love seeing the test benches others have posted, so I thought I'd share my take on the issue.

This is what I came up with:
JAMMABench-Overview.jpg

Inside the aluminum case, note the isolation transformer (with a universal monitor plug you can almost see in this pic), also note the Peter Chao power supply, switchbox that independently controls the isolation transformer and power supply and contains a fuse and power noise filter, the controller breakout box also fits in here for storage:
JAMMABench-InsideBox.jpg

The Controller and break-out box. Edit: The Genesis controller is hacked internally to enable all three buttons and the start button. Simply remove all internal chips/capacitors/resistors from the board, trace everything out, connect directly to each of the 9 pins. I stuck mostly with Genesis pinouts, with two minor modifications:
JAMMABench-Controller.jpg

Plugs into a run of the mill CGA to VGA converter (for now, I have a PSOne LCD Screen I'm working on prepping to go with this kit). You'll notice the CGA/VGA converter wiring terminates to a standard video connector, this way I can connect to a real arcade monitor externally OR the converter board.
JAMMABench-VideoConverter.jpg

And it all packs up into a small, easily portable, and rugged enclosure. I will find some way of containing the board and controller that will also protect them.
JAMMABench-Closed.jpg

Things that remain to be completed... I want to sleeve the wiring, right now it's just wire tied. I would also like to complete the PSOne LCD hack. I will be adding second player controls eventually, right now it's just player one. I need to label everything. I need to reinforce some of the solder connections and plugs (stress relief for the wires, will probably use silicon and/or hot glue). I would like to power the CGA/VGA Converter and the PSOne LCD from the power supply... Will cross these bridges shortly. Edit: Also need to add provisions for a speaker/audio, especially because a few of the boards on the "to be fixed" pile have audio issues.

All-in-all, I'm very pleased with how this turned out. Works perfectly, was troubleshooting my Strikers 1945 board this evening using this newly built kit. Already found the issue on the Strikers 1945 board, just trying to determine the best course of action. Might post about that and give a few additional details.
 
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Neat setup

So what the transformer for? I can see the need for one if your using a CRT but an LCD with a converting card doesn't need an transformer typically. Just curious.
 
Nice setup. Curious to hear about the Striker board or any other modifications to the system.
 
So what the transformer for? I can see the need for one if your using a CRT but an LCD with a converting card doesn't need an transformer typically. Just curious.

This unit was built to be a universal test-bed. I'll be building adapters (to JAMMA) as-needed for any board I work on.

With that in-mind, I wanted to have a system that could power and plug into both an actual arcade monitor (when repairing them), or into an LCD Panel (easier portability, smaller for the bench, will be "the usual" display I use when testing boards). The video cable terminates to a "standard" Molex video plug that will work with "most" monitor chassis. I made a quick adapter from the LCD Converter board to that "standard" video plug for when I want to use the LCD. I would have to build some sync adapters to be able to test all monitors (and boards) with this rig.

Essentially, I don't want to kick tube monitors around if I don't have to. So when I'm just working on a board, the LCD should suffice. I say should, as the converter board tends to be a bit finicky at times. :)

Yet, this system (combined with a JAMMA board with good video test modes) is a self-contained monitor testing rig which allows me to work on monitors without an arcade cabinet around.

This also enables me to drag this rig to the back of a completely DOA arcade cab and immediately test the monitor without knowing that the rest of the game is working.

The switchbox inside the aluminum case has a switch for the ISO Transformer, and for the Peter Chao independently. This allows me to selectively turn on/off the ISO Transformer when it's not needed. In the case of the pictures, you'll see the one switch is off (not lit) which is the switch for the ISO transformer.

It's all about universality!!! I never know where the crazy arcade escapades are going to take me and am doing my best to be prepared for all circumstances.
 
Mount a small LCD screen on the inside top of the briefcase and you're good to go.

I would have to build some sync adapters to be able to test all monitors (and boards) with this rig.

Not really. I have an monitor extension cable (necessary if you don't want to hold the tester in your lap when testing a monitor still in a cab), but I have it going to a 4-pin molex for RGB and ground, and a 2-pin molex for the vert and horiz sync. I put a quick connect jumper between the vert and horiz to bridge the composite sync on monitors that need it (like a G07). Others that only want sync on the negative-horiz only (like a K7000) would have the quick-connect unplugged. Using the 4-pin and 2-pin allows you to move the sync between negative and positive easily if necessary. I originally tried a 6-pin and 3-pin - with sync connected to both positive and negative with a switch that switched between the two - but that didn't help when dealing with some Kortek's that only have a 6-pin sync sensing circuit. The only real adapters you'd need with this setup would be a monitor that uses .100 headers (like a Ceronix or testing the 2nd monitor output of a 6-player X-Men, etc), or for a Nintendo-type monitor that has a GRB-ground-ground-sync input, but then you'd need a video inverter also...
 
This unit was built to be a universal test-bed. I'll be building adapters (to JAMMA) as-needed for any board I work on.

With that in-mind, I wanted to have a system that could power and plug into both an actual arcade monitor (when repairing them), or into an LCD Panel (easier portability, smaller for the bench, will be "the usual" display I use when testing boards). The video cable terminates to a "standard" Molex video plug that will work with "most" monitor chassis. I made a quick adapter from the LCD Converter board to that "standard" video plug for when I want to use the LCD. I would have to build some sync adapters to be able to test all monitors (and boards) with this rig.

Essentially, I don't want to kick tube monitors around if I don't have to. So when I'm just working on a board, the LCD should suffice. I say should, as the converter board tends to be a bit finicky at times. :)

Yet, this system (combined with a JAMMA board with good video test modes) is a self-contained monitor testing rig which allows me to work on monitors without an arcade cabinet around.

This also enables me to drag this rig to the back of a completely DOA arcade cab and immediately test the monitor without knowing that the rest of the game is working.

The switchbox inside the aluminum case has a switch for the ISO Transformer, and for the Peter Chao independently. This allows me to selectively turn on/off the ISO Transformer when it's not needed. In the case of the pictures, you'll see the one switch is off (not lit) which is the switch for the ISO transformer.

It's all about universality!!! I never know where the crazy arcade escapades are going to take me and am doing my best to be prepared for all circumstances.

Just simply amazing. All you need is a DVM built into it to measure voltages on the power supply or on the board.
 
Just took some pics of the inside of the Genesis controller. I was too lazy to dig out my Kynar wire spool, this was a scrap that I scarfed from the JAMMA harness I was working with. It's too thick, the soldering is a mess... Deal with it. :) I also decided to remove all components from the board Ran the wires for what I needed. There was probably an easier way, but I decided to brute-force it.

This was done to enable all 3 buttons and Start through the 9 pins of the Genesis port.

Pin reference:

Pin 1 - Up - JAMMA 18
Pin 2 - Down - JAMMA 19
Pin 3 - Left - JAMMA 20
Pin 4 - Right- JAMMA 21
Pin 5 - Button B - JAMMA 23
Pin 6 - Button A - JAMMA 22
Pin 7 - Button C - JAMMA 24
Pin 8 - Ground - JAMMA 1 (or any other ground)
Pin 9 - Start- JAMMA 17

SegaGenesisController1.jpg


SegaGenesisController2.jpg
 
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